Suzki lft300fka . having problems with the fuel system no fuel running to the carbi, apears to be a bolackage or something wrong with the valve from thevtank, any ideas how to fix

if it isnt the spark plug

is this the same aldi mower
Gardening with Rik unboxing and review of the Gardenline Aldi lawnmower
how much work has it done
did you tip the mower over the wrong way and oil got into the valve cover or carby

the carby is a metal bowl with a 10 mm drain nut
undo that see if fuel is clean and flowing

best bet is it needs a carby clean or throttle cable adjustment
maybe even a govenor adjustment

pull the carby and have it rebuilt professionally
it is over fueling (black plugs )
could be from float level , power valve , accelerator pump circuit
something is in wrong or missing

depending on how often you used the engine
problems include :-
dirt ,corrosion, rubber bits in the carby---fix is to have the carby professionally cleaned and overhauled
rubber from the fuel hoses disintergrating and causing problems in the carby, the pump valves
the rubber diaphragm in the pump is failing and not producing enough fuel to keep the motor running
the vent on the cap of the fuel tank is still closed creating a vacuum in the fuel system
it would be a good idea to replace all rubber hoses from the tank to the carby, overhaul the fuel pump, and have the carby professionally cleaned and overhauled
if you pull off any rubber hose and get a black stain on your hand ,that is rubber failing.

one would assume so but as you have not mention if it is a 2 stroke or 4 stroke , that assumption would possibly be wrong
2 strokes use reed valves between the carby and manifold and the crankcase and in outboards these reed valves can split and not function properly especially at higher prms
these reed valves allow fuel mixture in when the piston goes up and shut off when the piston comes down creating a pressure in the crankcase which pushes the mixture up the bypass of the cylinder into the combustion chamber
if these reed valves are not working properly or the crankshaft seal are failed this compression in the sump doesn't occur properly and engine running problems result
IF it is a 4 stroke the soaking the carby in cleaning fluid will only remove 1/2 the problems
It is best to have the carby fully overhauled by an accredited outboard mechanic as there will still be corrosion in the body and mixture passages that cleaning fluid alone will not remove.
have the ignition system checked as it may be an overheating component ( coil --ignition module) that is causing the failure.

Check your distributor shaft and condenser. Most carby problems are nothing to do with the carby

Clean it again you missed something or maybe a gasket is on wrong. If you went through all of that it should run fine. Stihl usually rebuilds and runs well. Slow down turbo maybe you got a little ahead of yourself. Good Luck...

I would say the problem is in your carbys, with the float levels, or a sticky needle and seat. If you open the fuel valve, fuel will flow into the carbys, ans shut off once the correct level is reached. I think the problem is in your carbys, not the fuel valve. I would remove the carbys, take the bowel off the bottom, and check the needle and seat, and float levels. It is not recomended to change the float levels from standard.

There are a couple of things that could be wrong.
The fuel shutoff valve in the carby could have something under it which stops it from closing.

A problem I had once, I had a souped up bike (250cc) and because I did not upgrade the fuel tap etc I wore holes in the bottom of the floats.

Did you have the carby in pieces?
If you did you might have left the fuel shutoff valve out.

I don't know if its any help but I've fixed my Honda with similar problem. It turns out I reassembled the rich carbys air cut off valve incorrectly. Have you checked yours? I'm wondering if the cut off valves somehow affect the other parts of the carbys. Mine is running sweet now.

gas leaking out of the overflow tube is definately a float or float tang problem. if you are sure the tang on the float is adjusted probably, then the float may have a hole in it and it is no longer "floating" to shut off the supply of fuel. i'd remove it and submerge it in gas for a bit and look for air bubbles escaping and also see if it no longer floats after you release it from being submerged. if either happens, then replace the float.

running rich is an improperly adjusted air screw, wrong setting on the jet needle (long needle attached to the carb slide with a circlip), clogged airfilter or wrong jet (main or pilot) size. i'd try to find out the settings for these items and adjust accordingly.

hope you get it all sorted out and get this classic back on the road!