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Anonymous Posted on Aug 12, 2014

Setting valve clearances

360

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Rigger DeBusk

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  • AMC Master 1,811 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2014
Rigger DeBusk
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Joined: Aug 28, 2012
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360 with hydraulic lifters, the crankshaft wit a ratchet and socket to get each valve closed. When lifter is at bottom turn the valve adjuster out to where you have free movement then turn adjuster till the rocker arm touches the lifter, then turn the adjuster in three quarters of a turn, and that valve is adjusted. No other clearance is required on hydraulic lifters. Do this with each valve in turn as each piston comes to top dead center using the firing order as a guide. When #1 piston is up to top dead center, both valves are closed. Adjust intake and exhaust at this time. Then the next in the firing order. The firing order can be found on the intake as is each cylinder marked with it's number. If it were a Chevy small block, for example only, firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I would bring # 1 cylinder up to top dead center on compression stroke by removing that spark plug and stick my finger in the hole and crank the engine till I felt my finger being pushed away with compression, then bring that piston up till the timing mark was on the "0" of the timing tab at drivers side of the harmonic balancer on the crank. Adjust both valves on #1 cylinder and then turn the crank until both valves of #8 cylinder were free moving at the rocker. Then to the next in order of fire. I would turn each adjuster out at least one full turn before starting this procedure, then adjust them in order of firing starting with #1. It isn't hard, just takes time to do it right.

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Take the rocker cover and the upper timing belt cover off.
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Valve Clearance Valve clearance is there to allow the valves to cool in between combustion events (spark), and to make sure the valve closes properly and contains the combustion explosion. You need to cool the valves a little bit, the exhaust valve moreso than the inlet, as it's what sees the most heat as spent burnt gases go past it into the exhaust port. Run too little clearance and you'll cause the valve to "weld" a little bit to its' seat every time it closes, and then take seat metal off again when it opens. Do this enough times and you burn out the valve seat and need the head reconditioned. However, by running less clearance, the valve stays open for that little but longer, and you get more air in and out of the motor, and make more power. Run too much clearance and your motor just sounds like a diesel and loses power and tappet rattle annoys you while you're driving, so it's better to err on the side of caution.
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Yellow Book Method This is from the factory 3K/4K/5K engine manual, aka The Yellow Books. It's the quick and lazy method.
Set engine to #1 TDC. Crank pulley timing mark should be on 0, distributor rotor should be pointing towards spark plug 1 or 2. Set tappets (counting from the front) 1, 2, 3 and 5. Rotate engine 360 degrees, crank pulley to 0 again, distributor rotor turned 180 degrees. Set tappets 4, 6, 7 and 8.
Nine Method I've never really gotten into doing this, takes too much time and maths for my liking :P Rotate the engine through its' range of movement, as one valve is "on the rock" of its' max lift, subtract the valve number from 9 and that's the tappet you should be setting. For example, if #8 valve is open, set clearance on valve #1. If valve #7 is open, set clearance on #2. And so on.
Stewart uses this method, and rotates the camshaft through its entire base circle and sets the clearance at the highest point. Which is a pretty good idea, as it compensates for the possibility that the base circle has been ground unevenly, and allows you to run the proper valve clearance that you want to run, instead of something that may be a few thou larger in reality.
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