Which way round do swing arm needle roller bearings fit on a suzuki gsxr 750 l

OP<
Posted by J Sparacino on Aug 31, 2016
you double posted. why do that????
no, the hubs are integrated bearing hubs.
here read the parts pages,
see any tapered bearings there,
if not sold , pray tell , how can you pack the bearing not in hand.
not only that, there are like 1000000 books on how to pack front bearing, if they were removable and are not.
why not look first then post.? at car and the book, !
or read the FREE FSM, it says what ?, unbolt them
and replace the integrated hub assembly.
that is a fact. 300 times ive posted the free book, now.
and is still there, and the words still real ,still jeep words and all accurate. sigh.
below is rockautos list of after market hub assemblies.
do not get confused at those needle bearings, those are actually front axle shaft bearings, not hub wheel bearings. fact.
wheel bearing are ball or tapered rollers, to handle lateral huge loading.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1998,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1315943,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636?a=Referer+duckduckgo.com+URL+%2F

adjust the brakes back off so that the drum can be pulled off first
next remove the grease cap, and split pin
remove the tin nut and the axle nut
pull the hub off the axle
replace the bearings after repacking the cones correctly ( grease between rollers under the cage )
reinstall making sure that the grease seal lip is facing the bearings
install the hub back on the axle and install the nut
do it up until it touches the bearing , spin the hub and do it up a bit more while turning
This ensures that all the tapered rollers are seated correctly
Now without touching any thing undo the nut then do it back up until it touches the bearing again
This is a no pre-load - no end float position that is desirable for the bearing
fit the tin nut positing it so that the split pin can go through the axle hole. If after many changes of position of the tin nut you still cannot get a section to line up with the hole , adjust the axle nut up just a bit until something lines up
any more than one castleantion hole will be too tight .
fit grease cap without filling with grease as that grease will do nothing
what you have put between the rollers under the cage will,be sufficient

this indicates either a bit missing from a tooth of a gear, or a failed bearing cage (roller ball bearings) or needle rollers
Some gear box construction use needle rollers running on a solid shaft from one end of the box to the other and some boxes use ball bearings on the ends of the counter shafts. There are needle rollers in the end of the clutch (input shaft) as well

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.
Lubrication

1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.
Drive Belt

1

Remove the screws or bolts securing the ends of the pedals to the crank axles. Slide the ends of the pedals off the axles. Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right disc shields to the base unit. Pull or pry the disc shields off the base unit and set them aside.

2

Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right side shields to the base unit. Detach the side shields and set them aside. Examine the interior of the base unit and locate the drive belt.

3

Pull the drive belt free of the crank pulley, flywheel and any other pulleys. Discard the old drive belt and install a new belt in its place. Turn the crank axles by hand to confirm that the belt will turn smoothly when the device is in use.

paddock stands mate they fit under the swing arm, or if center stang tie down to the rear fix to a ground anchor and tighten it up.

FIRST, LIFT AND SUPPORT THE REAR OF THE UNIT OFF THE GROUND. CANT USE AXLE LIFT OF COURSE. TIE FRONT END DOWN, BOTH SIDES AND LIFT UNDER TRANNY WITH JACK.
REMOVE THE REAR AXLE AND REAR WHEEL ASSY. DISCONNECT THE REAR SHOCK FROM THE SWINGARM ASSY. REMOVE THE SWINGARM SHAFT LOCK AND NUT FROM ONE SIDE AND PUSH OUT OF THE FRAME WITH SOFT BLUNT OBJECT AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE SHAFT END. YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO CUT CHAIN TO REMOVE. REINSTALL IN REVERSE OF THIS.

hi buddy you cant adjust bearings the bearing are there for smooth movement you can losen the swing and arm bolt to make them a little loser but too lose will be dodgy get back to me what you mean

they will more than likely fit but doubt that it'll run smoothly