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Anonymous Posted on Sep 28, 2014

Rear brake pad caliper pin is stuck. allen wrench is stripping bolt.

What is best way to get the bolt (pin) out?

1 Answer

Mike Harless

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  • Posted on Oct 31, 2014
Mike Harless
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Joined: Apr 30, 2009
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Use small headed maybe even needle nose vise grips if you can get it on tight, then use a pipe wrench or crescent wrench to turn the vise grips. If you have a propane torch heat it first then spray with a rust break free spray ten eat again and try turning. good luck!

3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 249 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2008

SOURCE: rear brake caliper removal

remove the two bolts holding it on

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Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2009

SOURCE: installing rear brake caliper rebuild kit.

To remove piston safely use the brake pedal to press out piston. You will need to remove the pads so it can do this. You will need a container to catch the fluid when the piston comes out. Clean the the piston with a fine polishing cloth 600 grit or higher so as not to leave scratches, replace piston if it pitted or burred. Clean inside of caliper, remove inside seal with dental type tool. Roll in the new seal, position same as old one. install new outter dust boot if equipped with one. Lubricate seal and leading edge of piston with brake fluid. Slide piston into calipier. You will need to make sure it is started straight and then use a C-clamp to compress the piston all the way in. Never ever use any oils or grease any any internal brake parts because it will cause seal failure. Clean parts are critical, but again , no petroleum products. Good luck

Anonymous

  • 301 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2009

SOURCE: New Pads new brake line cleaned and rebuilt caliper

It is one of two possible things:
There's corrosion in the caliper. Specifically in the groove that holds the piston seal. Take the seal out and scrape all signs of corrosion from the groove.
OR, the master cylinder has a gummed up check valve. Sometimes, you can take the master cylinder off, clean it out with hot soapy water (Simple Green works very well), blow it out with compressed air - and it'll be fine (without taking it apart). Otherwise, you'll need to get the rebuild kit and replace all of its internal moving parts.

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FIRST apply about 0.4 g of G40M BRAKE GREASE inside the caliper bushing boot and the caliper pin boot and inside the boot lip to prevent sticking between the boots and the bolt pins and insert the mounting bracket bolt pin into the caliper bushing boot.

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NOTE that the brake caliper housing has a positive stop for banjo fitting and so when tightening the banjo bolt into the brake caliper you will need to rotate the banjo fitting clockwise until it contacts the positive stop.
THEN position a new washer onto each side of the hydraulic brake line banjo fitting, insert the banjo bolt through the washers and fitting into the caliper housing and tighten it to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm). THEN insert the brake pads into the caliper with the friction material on the pad towards the brake disc and with the curved portion of the pad fitting into the recessed area of the caliper and the brake pad front mounting tab fitting into its slot in the caliper mounting bracket. THEN press the brake pads tightly up and against the brake pad spring and install the brake pad pin but if the pin does not easily fit in ensure that you are suing the correct brake pads and not two identical pads, that the brake pad spring is oriented correctly, that the brake pad front mounting tabs are properly seated in the slots in the mounting bracket and that the brake pads are correctly pushed tight up against the brake pad spring BEFORE the brake pad pin is installed. AND THEN tighten the brake pad pin to 131-173 in-lbs (14.8-19.6 Nm). THEN install the brake pad pin plug and tighten it to 18-25 in-lbs (2.0-2.9 Nm). THEN with the rear brake master cylinder reservoir in a level position verify the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If necessary and with the bike upright and not resting on its jiffy stand remove the rear brake master cylinder reservoir cap and add sufficient new D.O.T. 5 BRAKE FLUID to the reservoir to cause the fluid to reach the upper fluid level mark, but do not exceed this mark. THEN verify the proper operation of the master cylinder relief port because a plugged or otherwise blocked relief port could cause the brakes to drag or stick on. Do this by pressing against the rear brake caliper to push the caliper piston back into its bore and push brake fluid back through the master cylinder and into the reservoir. THEN pump the brake pedal until the caliper piston pushes the brake pads out against the brake disc and firm pressure is returned to the brake system.THEN turn ignition switch ON and pump the brake pedal to verify correct operation of the brake lamp and test ride the motorcycle at low speed to safely test the brake system. If the brakes feel at all soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm, hard pedal and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to become conditioned to the brake disc.


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The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc and it must be replaced if and when it is badly scored or worn past the minimum thickness. Maximum brake disc lateral runout and warpage is 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.
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2 Slide the caliper off the brake rotor. Suspend the caliper from the handlebars or frame, if needed, using a bungee cord.
3 Pull the hair clip pin out of the brake pad's retaining pin on the outside face of the caliper using a pair of needle-nose pliers. Push the retaining pin out of the back of the caliper with your finger.
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I hope this will help you. thanks
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For front brake pads replacement you only need usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!!
Instructions for front brake pads replacement.
For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow:
1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
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4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
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6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary!
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11. Install both caps.
12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing.

Important note: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!!
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1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
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9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier.
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1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease).
4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston.
6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary!
7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing.
8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward).
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1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease).
4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston.
6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary!
7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing.
8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward).
9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier.
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I have a 2000 Passat and going to have my friend replace the rotors and breaks. I am preparing to fix it but want to know what sizes are the bolts for the calipers sliding pins. If you know the Bolt s

For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads.
Installation tips:
Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease"
Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques:
Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb
Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb
Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb
Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
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the allen wrench bolts should be the correct bolts to remove brake caliper to allow access to pads.


hint: there will be only two bolts to remove and they will be the same maybe different lengths
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