Question about 2012 Triumph Bonneville T100

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What's this little red light on the right side under the big bolt that connects the handle bar to the frame? Thank you!

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Hi, Hai it may be the oil pressure light I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Triumph but despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100 Back to 2012 Triumph Motorcycle Model Review...
Triumph Bonneville Owners Manual Eng pdf
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2012+triumph+bonneville+t100

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Dec 26, 2015

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6ya6ya

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Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

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Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

No power to the starter. Ignition has continuity as does the starter solenoid.


Just as a test touch a pair of pliers handles across the two big lugs on the solenoid to see if by passing it fixes the problem .The solenoid is bolted to the steel of the tractor for a ground, if not and bolted to plastic there will be a second little wire on the solenoid that grounds it, if it is not grounded or has become a bad connection it will not pass battery to the starter.Inside of that solenoid there is two brass buttons and when you turn the key to start position it send currant through the little wire to make a magnetic field inside of it and pushes away a striker bar that lands across the two brass buttons, with time the arcing make the surface on the two buttons bad.
For the starter to work it needs to be grounded or attached to the negative of the battery in some way. Most mowers this is done by bolting it to a steel frame and also bolting the negative of the battery to the steel frame with a cable. Clip your test light to a cleaned area of the frame,now with the pointed end of the test light touch the positive of the battery to see if your light is grounded at the cleaned frame area, if it lights that tells us the ground cable to frame is good,if not go unbolt the end attached to the frame and sand all surfaces clean and reattach and retest.
Now one more quick test with a test light, clip to the ground lead of the test light to the cleaned frame area again, touch the point end to the engine block, turn key into start/crank position, does it light? If it does it indicates the bottom of the aluminum engine has become oxidized like a dirty battery cable does. As a quick fix you can loosen all the engine bolts and twist the engine left and right in hopes of breaking up the crud then tighten them back.
Another quick test is with a set of jumper cables off you car, neg to the engine block on mower and touch the bolt on the side of the starter on the mower with the positive jumper cable, If that starts it you know your starter is good. Inside of the starter is two magnets glued to the sides of the outside steel case, you hit it with a hammer it can and will break them lose and they slide around till they touch the other magnet. I have JB Welded them back if they are not destroyed.

Mar 16, 2016 | Garden

1 Answer

What's this little red light on the right side under the big bolt that connects the handle bar to the frame?


Hi, Hai for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2012+triumph+bonneville+t100
2012 Triumph Bonneville
http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-talk/229183-bonneville-owners-manual.html

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Dec 26, 2015 | Triumph Bonneville Motorcycles

1 Answer

Remove and replace Front Sway bar


Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
  4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
  5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
  6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
  7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
  8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
  9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
  10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
  11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.
Installation
  1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
  2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
  3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
  4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
  5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
  6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
  7. Remove the jack stand.
  8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
  9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
  12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Nov 13, 2010 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

My MTB handles seem to be to loose , when I let go of the handles there is no stability. How do I set this?


This sounds like te neck of the bike has come loose, tighten the bolt that's right above the frame and underneath the handle bars, there will also be a little washer-type thing that's directly under the bolt and you must tighten that in order to shield the bearing from moisture. hope this helps, Daniel

Oct 29, 2010 | Mountain Best Bikes NFL Michigan U 26-Inch...

2 Answers

How to replace door handle on passager front side


Remove the interior door trim - Remove inner handle surround, slide out wood, remove screws including the one hiding under the rubber air trunking. Remove small middle section (inside pull-handle) to reveal cross head screw - remove. Also remove screw in red kerb light.

The window lift motor needs removing, but first use plenty of tape to hold the window to the top of the door frame to prevent the glass falling down.

Undo the four nuts that hold the lift motor (no need to unbolt the bottom channel runner).

Undo the connectors, and ease down and out the motor.

Remove the four Torx-headed bolts holding the window frame, and remove a fifth inside the door at the bottom of the front frame. (Don't worry - the frame will not drop down)

Force the frame up so that the window is clear of the weather seal (a bit of a struggle). Untape the glass, and remove. Remove frame. Remove the handle - first undo the cable/ rod connections. Unplug the handles electric's (cut cable ties). Remove 2 10mm bolts holding handle to door frame. Remove handle.

To refit - reverse procedure.

you may need to adjust the new handle

To adjust the door handles, you take off the door interior panel.

There's a little gray rectangle in the interior door handle. Push up and it will pop out revealing a screw. There's also a screw behind the puddle lamp (the little red lamp on the door interior, near the rear). It's sort of scary, but take a large flat head screwdriver, hold it horizontally, insert it in the crevice between the puddle lamp and the door and pry it off (be sure to hold your tongue in just the right position or you'll break the plastic).

After all the screws are out, just pull the door off gently from the edges, there are plastic 'clips' that hold the door on - not to worry, you'll see.

Inside the door you can see the door handle assembly. There is also a turnbuckle which can adjust the length of the arm that connects the door handle and the latch. The bad news is, you have to take the outside handle off to adjust this turnbuckle. It's more time consuming than it is difficult.

Anyway, there are four screws on the bracket that hold the outside handle on.

I found that a pair of simple pliers was the best method for loosening them.

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THEM INTO THE DOOR ONCE THEY ARE LOOSENED!

Adjusting the turnbuckles is very important and they need to be adjusted to completely eliminate all free play from the external handles when the doors are closed but unlocked.

The standard Jaguar tool kit includes the right open jaw spanners to do the job. Other very small 8 & 7 mm open jaw spanners would also be OK. The front doors are no problem at all; the rears are difficult but possible.

The job can be made a little easier by buying a small 8 mm open jaw and heating and bending the shank about 30 degrees, as near as possible to the jaws and in the flat plane.



Mar 11, 2010 | 1994 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

Neddle brakes - Out off the course when sewing large patterns


The reason of this missbehave is a destroyed plastic buffer, which is attached to the move limiter for the needle bar frame. It is quite a little delicate to open the machine's housing due to some hidden scews. Neccesary is to open it. You have to empty the accesory drawer. Then you have to remove the underside cover. The right side cover must be removed as well (take care of the screw which fixes the middle part of this. It is found from below through a small channel, just fitting a screw driver through the hole). Below the movable small table at the lower left front, there is a small turnknob for adjusting the horizontal alignment of big patterns. This knob has to be pulled out, also the round cover below it (best use a little hook and pull the cover out at its small hole seen from below). Remove the two screws directly under the movable table. Remove all screws, which are fixing the front cover from below the machine. Remove the hood which covers the needle bar just as you would like to change the light bulb). There are two scews to be removed holding the front cover. The foot presser handle has to be removed as well. Now gently pull the front cover off the machine. It might be neccesary to help moving the cover at the upper side, inserting a screw drivers blade into the gap between cover and machine frame. The cover should snap off now, if there are no forgotten screw connections left.
After the cover is released, take care of the ribbon cable, wich connects the display etc. with the electronich mainboard. the ribbon cable can be teared out carefully of the mainboard connector. Now you have clear sight onto the needle bar's mechanics. if you push the needle bar to the right, you can see, that the needle bar frame is stopped from a small metal piece, fixed with two screws. At the touch point of the frame and the metal piece, there is (or was) the plastic buffer, which is now destroyed and has the consistence of used chewing gum.
There are two choices: Either you find a spare part metal piece with good plastic buffer or you will have to improvise the buffer by handcrafting it.
After you repaired the metal piece, you will have to adjust it.
Moving the needle bar to the right, the needle bar clutch have to release the needle bar before the needle is over the point to stitch to the plate.

Remark: Due to the different length of the screws it might be a good idea to give some notes, which length belong to which hole.

Wish a good success,

Bernd

Feb 06, 2010 | Singer Quantum XL-6000 Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

My daughter wrecked on her Mongoose r2261wm and now the handlebars just spin. We can't see any obvious breaks or loose/missing bolts. We're thinking it must be something inside the fork where the bar goes...


There should be a bolt on the frame at the base of the handle bar stem. There should also be a bolt on the top of the handle bar stem. If these are both tight and secure. The odds are the expansion clamp that's connected to the base of the handle bar (part that goes into the frame) has broken.

Aug 23, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Replace handle bars


Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide

1 Answer

Raising the handlebar how do you do it?


PUT THE FRONT WHEEL BETWEEN YOUR KNEES AND TWIST HANDLE BARS FROM SIDE TO SIDE THEN SIDE TO SIDE AND UP AT SAME TIME THIS PART OF THE BIKE CAN BECOME RUSTED AND STICKY INSIDE TRY SOME WD40 OR ANY SORT OF OIL TO TRY AND GET IT MOVING AND BE SURE TO RE TIGHTEN NUT BEFORE USE HOPE THIS IS HELPFUL GLENN......

Nov 14, 2008 | Huffy 26in Mens Sante Fe Cruiser Bike -...

1 Answer

Replace handle bars


Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Nov 10, 2008 | Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide...

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