Cbx750f clutch slip

stick shifts are my love. for over 50 years,
ok if the slave cycl released 100% does it? ( look and see it fully retracted)
the clutch is bad if it slips. (linkage /slave good)
no matter what car it is.
that is right warm clutches slip more hot.
a physics thing. (disk surfaces)
here is what can be bad. (all)
bad throw out bearing actual or it sticks from worn out pinon surfaces.
bad PP bad pressure plate, spring weak.
bad DISK , worn thin it hits brass rivets and SLIPS
oil on disk from bad seal front end of tranny
front of tranny pinion shaft a wreck, galled and rusted. and makes the throwout bearing stick and not release.
(all the above is moot, if slave is ok, and master cyc.
moot in the the transmission is now pulled and all above is discovered. and in truth all is just changed out 3 part klt.
done many even 4wd a 10 hour job on those.
first one done was 1964. by me and before that motorcycles and after too.
hint #2 (other) on manual linkage , no slave
the clutch free play must be kept to spec or 1/2" or clutch will slip ignored say for years.

The clutch cylinder and brake are fed off the same reservoir, but we get them separately from chrysler. Dot 3 fluid also.
Here is some info, and a picture of the system.

The clutch hydraulic system is responsible for engaging and disengaging the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This pressure is transmitted to the integral release bearing which is in contact with the pressure plate diaphragm spring. As additional force is applied, the bearing depresses the diaphragm spring fingers inward on the fulcrums. The action moves the pressure plate rearward, relieving clamping force on the clutch disc.




The typical clutch hydraulic system consists of a clutch master cylinder (4) Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) and an interconnecting fluid line (2). Clutch hydraulic fluid is supplied by the brake system via the brake master cylinder reservoir (1). The clutch pedal pushrod (3) is non-adjustable.

If you’ve found this helpful, please click the green “helpful” icon. If you have 20 seconds please leave a few words as a review or recommendation! Also, follow me for more answers to everyday issues, I’m all for saving you money and making the most of your time! Thanks and have a great day!

Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.

FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.

After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

All the following from memory of my 1962 Rapier Series IIIa that I sold over thirty years ago so need checking.

It's hydraulically operated (Lockheed if I remember correctly).

The push rod from the slave cylinder operated the clutch release bearing (USA: throw out bearing) via al pivoting lever. The bearing is a graphite block held in a cast iron carrier, not a ball bearing unit as found on modern clutches.

The clutch itself consists of the flywheel and clutch cover, both bolted together and driven by the engine. The clutch cover uses six strong coil springs (not the more modern diaphragm spring) to clamp the driven plate to the flywheel. The driven plate is lined with friction surfaces like brake friction parts and it transfers the drive from the engine to the gearbox via a splined shaft.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the release bearing presses on part of the sprung clutch cover and via some short levers, unclamps the driven plate. The engine can now turn freely without moving the rest of the drive train.

Alternatively, look up How Clutches Work HowStuffWorks This link has a video but it shows a diaphragm clutch although the principle is the same.

There is no adjustment on the hydraulic clutches...if it drags, bleed the system and check slave piston for leaks...if it slips, check that the piston in the slave isn't sticking...if that's ok check the friction plates for wear.

If by pop you mean that the slave cylinder piston came out of the cylinder then I would fix that by installing a longer push rod to take up the extra length required by the slave cylinder being too far away from the clutch throw out lever (or relocate the cylinder closer to the arm. The length would be about 1/4" shorter than when the piston is fully bottomed out and that will give you a bit of free play and not let the clutch slip. Keep the fly wheel in mind but as long as the throw out bearing stays on the clutch input shaft housing then the flywheel would not solve much

Most likely Weak or broken spring on the trust bearing plate.How to check. When the clutch is fully released push the plate towards the slave cylinder the piston in the slave cylinder should go in. I have sometimes fitted an external spring from the plate to the bolt on the slave cylinder to save removing the gearbox which does work but to do it properly you will need to remove the gearbox and fit a proper spring. Cheers

SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:

• Flywheel.
• Clutch disc.
• Clutch pressure plate.
• Clutch master cylinder.
• Clutch slave cylinder.
• Clutch release fork.
• Clutch release hub and bearing.

The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting

1. Check the operation of the clutch: Lay a block of wood approx. 25 mm thick under the clutch pedal and depress the clutch pedal as far as the stop. If 1st or 2nd gear can be selected with no problem with the engine running and the parking brake applied, the clutch is OK. If the gear cannot be selected, repair the clutch.

1. Check the selector mechanism:
   • The free play in the gearshift lever must be no more than 15 mm.
     • If the gearshift lever free play is too great, check the gearshift cables and replace them if necessary.
   • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .

1. Check the transaxle fluid level and top up with Automatic Transmission Fluid ESD-M2C186-A if necessary.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

they use a hydrolic system wich use fluid if your gears are not grabbing and its slipping no udjucment require because the cluck is bad but if you cant put it in gear when it on then its your hydrolic system

The problem is very unlikely to be your flywheel it sounds as if your clutch diaphragm spring is either cracked or distorted.Sorry but it sounds like a gear box /clutch job not to bad .The scheduled time is 2.6hrs hope this helps