Question about 2007 Husqvarna SM 125 S

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Can you replace the crank oil seal with the cover off from the outside or do you need to split the cases?

And what is the volume of oil for the gearbox?

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Hi, Endo that would be a lot of work and this is your lucky day no case splitting and the gearbox oil capacity is 650ML for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
How To Change The Gearbox Oil In 2 Stroke
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Posted on Aug 17, 2016


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Why my 1971 250 dt only idles with choke on, stalls with choke off, idles high when started?

Idling high on start up sounds like a blown crank seal. Check for any oil around the seals on each end of the crankshaft, they should be bone dry. Replacing them doesn't require splitting the crank cases.

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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How do i change the crank seals on my 1982 suzuki RM125 can it be done without spliting the case thanks Scott

Take a look at a new set of seals, if they do not have a raised lip around the outer sealing surface, you should be able to gently pry out the old seals and press in the new ones. If they do have the raised O-ring style lip around the outside edge, you will have to split the cases to put the seals in. Some people replace raised lip seals with flat outside edge seals, they may not seal as well, and they have a greater chance of popping out, but they are easy to install. The real problem here is prying out the old raised lip seals with out damaging the case. If you have to split the case to get them out you may as well put in the good seals. At any rate, if the seals have flat outside edges you do not have to split the cases.

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Should there be oil in the alernater caseing

Hi Fred

In short.... NO... there should not be oil in the alternator. You will have a failing seal on the output shaft from engine to the alternator. These seals can sometimes be changed without splitting the crankcases, but sometimes not. You will need a puller to get the rotor off and access to the shaft/seal to see what is going on.

This may be a job for a repair shop if you have not done this sort of work before. There are some tools required, and the engine will need to be removed from the frame if a new seal cannot be fitted without splitting the crank case.


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Leaking crankshaft seal

The manual on the 750 says put new seals on the crank as you install it, and I believe they have a locating lip on the seal that fits in a groove in the cases. which means a split.

I have trimmed the lip off the seal, and installed them with loctite master gasket, the old seal is hard to remove due to the lip

Mar 21, 2010 | 1977 kawasaki Z 650

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My 1969 ts 250 is burning crank case oil. Must be the crankshaft seal is out? Can I replce the seal without spliting the crankcase joint?

If your motorcycle is burning oil this indicates worn top end components. A leaking crank shaft seal would be leaking onto the ground. Yes you can replace the seal without splitting the cases, with the right tools.

Jan 04, 2010 | Suzuki ST 250 Motorcycles

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How too replace connecting rod on a ttr 125l. I have a 2001 ttr 125 with a seized conn big bearing. and I would like to know the proper way of splitting the crank too replace it

The top end comes off then the left and right side covers, flywheel, clutch and shift shaft. Now a case splitter is used to split the center case halves. To replace the bearing you will need a hydraulic press to disassemble and reassemble the crank halves. If the bearing is seized you should replace the bearing, crank pin and the connecting rod. The crank must be realigned using twin dial gages. Personally, I suggest a new crank assembly be purchased from ( $241 ). I would replace the crank end bearings at the same time and also the sprocket shaft outer bearing and seal. Please rate my answer.

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2 Answers

I need to know how to dis/reassemble a 1974 DT 360?

A service manual ( if you can find one ) is what you need. The second thing you need is repair parts. They are pretty hard to find. Babbitt's, a well known distributor, only has parts left in stock for the top end. Go to their website,
and you can see what is left. There's also a diagram of the crankcase center halves. If you can't get the repair parts, spending hours doing an engine teardown is fruitless.

The teardown will require a flywheel puller, a case splitter, an impact driver, and a torque wrench (somewhat optional). Disassemble the top end then remove the left and right side case covers. Remove the flywheel and related electrics, the clutch, crankshaft drive gear, oil pump, kick starter, shift shaft assembly, shift drum end cap and index pins. Now remove the screws on the center case and you can then split the case. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. Note that crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case.

I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. This is why a manual would help. Another potential source for parts is to Google motorcycle salvage yamaha .
The normal things you would need to replace inside the center case would be bent shift forks (if shifting is the problem), busted gears, crank bearings and seals, and sprocket shaft bearing and seal. All else can be replaced by removing just the side covers.

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1 Answer

Do I need to split the cases to replace the main seal on the right side of the motor on an 82 RM250z. I am getting black tranny oil coming out my silencer. There is a bearing that overlaps a little bit...

Only the right case cover needs to come off. The clutch may need to come off also but only if it overlaps access to the seal. After removing the crankshaft drive gear and other small parts you then have access to the seal.Granted that it is limited access but should be enough to pry the old seal out. The old seal will be bent quite a bit during removal but that's okay. you have a new one on hand. You will need to work around the overlapping bearing.

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