What would be my problem on a 1940's Wisconsin motor starter that I can't it to kick out?

Usually with starter motor, it kicks out out the drive gear to engage flywheel. If it kicks out the drive gear, do you have proper starter motor? Is the flywheel ok? some starter motors use shims to correctly match the starter drive gear to flywheel teeth. I don't know what vehicle you have? Battery has a full charge?

I need year--make--model?
Can you remove flywheel cover, where applicable, maybe you can see if starter motor is kicking out drive-gear to engage flywheel? Check the flywheel teeth.
As far as starter testing, you can usually take the starter motor off, lay it on the ground, hook up jumper cables properly from charged battery to starter motor, at the least, it should kick out the drive gear and spin. I have to talk in generalities because I don't know which vehicle you have?

I can talk to you in automotive terms, I know nothing about a backhoe.
I can usually lay the starter motor on the ground, hook up jumper cables properly from starter to battery, at the least, it should kick out the starter drive gear and spin. If it doesn't kick out the drive gear, starter is faulty. I don't know if starter solenoid sits on top of starter motor? I replace as an assembly. Did you check flywheel teeth? I've never worked on a backhoe.

There maybe a problem with starter motor? Some of the national brand auto stores will test starter for you. Of course, you have to take it off and take it to them.


You could take the starter off, lay it on the ground, Hook up jumper cables properly from starter to battery. The starter should kick-out the drive gear and spin. If starter drive gear kicks out and in, something is wrong. Anymore I replace starter solenoid and starter motor as an assembly.

It wouldn't hurt anything to check flywheel teeth while your at it.

I am not sure what a kick starter is and what "light at asc" is. I think it would be a good idea to check the starter motor

to change the points to electronic you will need to get the manufacturer of the distributor and contact them for a compatible electronic kit to replace the points or replacement distributor
to fit an alternator , get one with an internal voltage regulator ( talk with an auto electrician for the best unit --it is not necessary to go big amperage units so one about 35-60 amps will suffice and cheaper as well)
wiring will be the same as will fuses (neither volt sensitive)
gauges will have to be changed to 12 volt units
bulbs changed from 6 volt to 12 bulbs and switches will be the same as they are no volt sensitive
basically the same circuit can be used and the only place to be careful is the alternator wire to the battery and the charge light or volt gauge ( auto electrician can advise here )
starter motor will have to be changed to 12 volts and you will again have to get the replacement unit from an auto electrician as the bendix pitch , movement and mounting neck will be critical
wisconsin did not make electrical components but used off the shelf companies such as delco remy, lucas , bosch, ac etc for the accessories to the engine
it is an interesting project so collect as much information from auto electricians and web sites to help you

I always start with the solenoid and battery cables on these old fords first as that is more likely than the motor. I'm not sure what you mean by groaning noise. A grinding or whirring from the starter itself could mean the bendix has gone bad and the starter motor itself should be replaced before it eats the teeth off the flywheel. Basically if it sounds like the starter motor is spinning but not kicking over the motor the spring that kicks out the starter gear is bad, replace the motor with a rebuilt one. If it sounds like the starter motor is spinning slow or doesn't have enough power to start the truck, battery cables or connections are bad. If the starter motor doesn't do anything, the solenoid is bad. The starter motor should have 2 bolts holding it in on your truck. Remove the cable and any other wires to it first so they don't get damaged. If it won't come loose you may have a 3rd bolt over the top of the motor, a long extension with a wobble end helps for this one. It will be the same size as the other 2. Use a light grit sandpaper like 180 and make sure all connections are shiny before putting new starter in. Even a small amount of corrosion is enough to stop the starter.

You can kick start it but your electric starter won't kick it in ?
Have you check your main fuse to the starter, starter relay and all realted wirings?
You have fried the starter motor my friend when you keep trying to turn it over until the motor stops.
Well, from what you've described, you started motor have gone to brink, better get a new starter.
Cheers

it is probably under the motor near the front of the block You will need to get under you car or get it up on a hoist most cars have the starter motor underneath

First you have to have a flywheel that will support a starter. It must have a toothed flywheel. Second, the brand of motor. Briggs & Stratton, Tucumseh, Kohler, Onan, Wisconsin, ect. Was it originally electric start? Has battery tray, key switch, ect? You will need the Serial Number, Model Number which is on the "blower housing", or the recoil start housing on the top of the motor to replace with the correct starter. You probably can find one at any small engine repair shop, maybe a lower cost used starter. But you need the information above to obtain that. Model #, Serial #, Make, ect. If this mower wasn't electric start originally, this will be a major change. Flywheel, starter, wiring, battery, switch, and the like. Not for the faint of heart. It can be done, and has been, but will be difficult. If it is a Briggs and Stratton, you should find parts easy to access. And Tecumseh. And relatively economic.