How do I remove gear oil bolt that's snapped in my 04 dt125 2stroke

hard to change gears is a clutch problem mainly so make sure that the clutch is operating properly ( makes no difference if hydraulic or cable)
Drain out the oil from the drain plug on the bottom of the box. clean the magnet on the plug. check for metal bits as this indicates bearings or gear problems. Replace the plug. About half way up the side of the box you will find another plug. Remove it. The oil you are using should be to makers specs but I prefer a 80-90 epw gear oil as the gears do a lot of work and need that extra tension in the oil to keep the teeth apart. Some makers recommend 30 grade straight mineral oil (not engine oil) but use what is recommended. You get the gear oil in 1ltre bottles ( pint or quart) and they now have an extendible plastic hose that you pull out. Put that in the plug hole and squeeze the bottle. Will probably use 2 and 1 half bottles depending on the box. Squeeze in oil until it flows back out the fill hole. Let it level out as that is the correct level of oil for the box. refit the plug tight

Gear Box Removal:

Drain the gear box oil by removing the drain plug.

Here is the input for the speedometer cable drive. If the gear box is in the frame, you will need a 10 mm wrench to loosen the bolt holding the cable. Back the bolt out until you can pull the speedometer paddle drive free.

If the gear box is on in the frame you will also need to remove the neutral switch wire with a 13 mm wrench and slotted screw driver to keep the adjustment screw from moving.
You can refer to the complete process here: http://myural.com/gearboxremoval&install.htm
China OBD2 car diagnostic tools wholesale on CareUCar

pin with the rounded end first , then spring , then plug
It helps the gear selecter stay in gears

HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

This asian Car has no dipstick on transmission / gear box. Instead, it has two holes bottom and upper bolts. The lower bolt is the drain plug and the latter is filling bolt. How we know the filling level then? Just tighten your drain plug and fill it with gear oil until it going flooded a bit. Then tighten your filling plug.

Regards, Jay

The manual transmission oil, or gear box oil can't last forever. It is a good idea to replace every 60K miles with a new one. Just as with motor oil, and oil change is cheap insurance. Buy synthetic oil if you can.
The manual transmission oil change is a simple procedure, but can complicated and creates costly problems.
First remove the filling bolt. In some cases this is siezed, If the heating doesn't help, you don't want a stripped filler bolt, with an empty transmission. Use WD-40 and do not use extensive force.
If the bolt still won't budge. Stop. Lower the car and visit a shop for service.
After removing the filler bolt (upper), then remove the drain bolt at the bottom.
Replace the drain bolt, with a new one, normally has a magnet, and thread it by hand after with a wrench.
Fill the gearbox with oil using a gear oil / lube pump. Replace the filling bolt and process same as with draining bolt.
If you will change the gear box oil every 60K miles this is the best insurance for your manual transmission. DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE FILLING AND DRAINING BOLTS WITH NEW ONE.
In rare cases a rusty bolt is siezed, almost rust welded in the transmission housing, so the transmission must be removed and taken to a machine shop.

gearbox filler port is usually on the side of the trans about half way up. It only gets filled up to that point. The fitting looks like a plug and takes a 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet to open.

Tighten three oil pan/transmission bolts 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) Tighten all bolts oil pan/engine block cross over 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)

There will be a large bolt on the bottom of the gearbox. Remove the bolt and the oil will drain from that location. Replace the bolt, put in fresh oil then go riding.

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