Suzuki Rmx 250 whitch wires go we're to get it started theirs no lights on bike or battery it's got a rectifier whitch stator is wired up to 3phase stator confused as only seen rm wireing ? Help plz

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The stator is probably it..I had the same problem...After you change it the bike will run so much better. That's why it ran good with the new battery...Then it started draining it..It takes a special tool to get it out..

The Regulator/Rectifier is located ontop of the headlight. You can see it through the grill there. To change it requires the removal of the fairing, false tank, seat, instrument cluster cover. The Stator is located on the left side(sitting on the bike) of the motor. You can change it by lying the bike over on something soft, old mattress or the grass, on the motor - remove the left rear (secondary) cover and the stator cover. NOTE the lay of the wires and the wire guard. Remove the stator and follow the wires up to where they connect to the Reg/Rect behind the right indicator light. If you were only doing the Stator, then some people splice the wires in behind the left sidecover with heavy duty splices and solder combined. For more info on these bikes, join the worldwide email group via Suzuki Cavalcade.com Hope this helps.

The wires from the Stator to the Regulator/rectifier do get very hot. Remember that the stator always puts out maximum power and the reg/rect shunts what ever your bike does not use to ground. A very wasteful thing to do, but that is what Suzuki decided to do with most of their models. There is a yahoo email group for these bikes joined through a link at suzukicavalcade.com - try it.

It will be a permanent magnet alternator, there are no carbon brushes, you will need a manual for that model and start checking resistances with a multi meter.
without being able to tell you exact readings...
there will be three wires the same color coming from the stator(usually all yellow or all white) the resistance between any pair must be the same, and none of them should indicate to ground. When the bike is running any pair of these will produce about 50volts AC.
If this checks out you probably need a new regulator

get access to battery then put meter across it...with bike not running it should read about 12.6v...now start bike and rev to about 3000rpm watch meter it should start to rise up in voltage, maybe to around 13.5v to 14v then quickly regulate back down to 13v...regulator is working o.k. The battery could just have a cell going bad in it and not holding the charge... if still not working, check stator for any open windings...measure any two wires leading into the stator they should all be .1 to 1 ohm .. and if battery is more than three years old... i would suspect that too. if your battery voltage is less than 12v its probably on its way out.

check that all the wire connections are good, start at the 3 stator leads and follow it to the rectifier and to the battery, also if you have a multimeter, rev the bike up to 3000 revs and hook up the multimeter to the battery (positive to positive and neg - neg), this will give you the charging voltage, should be between 13-15 volts dc, if its not, it could be a bad stator, but is more likely to be the regulator rectifier unit

yes it should just replaced the regulator rectifier on my friends bike same problem as yours he kept replaceing battery and rechargeing it. it was the regulator( 5 wire box just to the left of the seat on his 01 gsxr 750) it costed 81.00 from bikebandit.com
to test it you can start by putting a volt meter on the battery and checking volts off (12v) and then running, it should go above 13v if the volts dont go up then its prob the regulator rectifier box to check your stator i use my meter for hertz or cycles or a tach one wire to ground and one wire to the yellow wires from the stator one at a time the tach should read same as the one on the bike on all three wires
hopefully it reads good cause it is a whole lot easer to replace the vrr than the stator
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/15213?mg=6904&t=1&td=1
good luck
hope i helped

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

I have a 83 DR 250 and i'm not getting enough voltage to create a spark, all I can suggest is that you check your battery and make sure its at full flavour. Check and see if you are getting any voltage prior to the ignition coil (should be 18-35v). If you suspect battery then try clutching it as the alternator moving faster might give you enough to get her going. Also check all your connections and earths. Earth wires are often overlooked and can cause you just as many problems as the actives. So give that a go and get back to me mate. Cheers