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I suspect riding it home in a high gear needed lots of clutch slip - could be you have worn the clutch plates quite a lot and perhaps overheated it.
If it is a cable operated clutch, adjusting it might restore some functionality but as the gearchange is "stuck", clearly some dismantling will be needed and it would probably expose the clutch parts for inspection.
when shifting gears on bikes you have to keep pedalling but with out load on the chain
shift one gear at a time as multiple gear selections may cause chain jump
do not pedal backwards as the selector is for forward motion only
Either the tiny shift spring under the rear cover is broken or the shift linkage gear next to it is out of position. If this is the case there is no way to put the bike in neutral without removing the engine and taking off the rear cover to fix the shift linkage ( first gear lock up can happen if the shift gear pops out of place during reassembly. Always check your shifter is working correctly before bolting down the rear cover.). If your only problem was a broken clutch cable you could shift the bike to neutral with the motor off and push it around on it's wheels. If the problem is inside the motor and it has to be moved right away put a furniture dolly under the rear wheel and keep a block of wood handy to place under the side stand to park the bike until it can be taken off the dolly.
personally I have never heard of a chain breaking and having any affect on the transmission and shifting. although if the chain broke and caught the shifter, it may have pulled the shifter so hard that it could have bent the shifting forks inside the transmission.. this would explain most of your problems..replace the chain,and with the bike "off" and in neutral, on level ground, rock it back and fourth about 6 inches and try shifting from neutral to 1st and then back up to neutral, and then to 2nd. keep rocking the bike back and fourth while doing this and do this WITHOUT using the clutch. If it wont go to the gears easily, the shift forks are likely bent. there is a safety switch for the kickstand that will shut the bike down if the kickstand is down and bike is in gear. if the kickstand is up and releasing the clutch shuts down the bike, the chain may have damaged that as well. Hope this helps..
Going down, shift fast and keep that chain moving, If the derailleur isn't throwing far enough, fast enough, get some oil in there and move the adj screw a hair in, so that the chain will move over a hair and not fall off the other side. I was just out on my bike and couldn't believe how nice it stills shifts after 25 years. Original parts. Hope this helps.
Rock the bike backwards and forwards while trying to shift the gears. If the lever moves up and down but the transmission does not shift, the shifter shaft in the transmission may be broken. When doing this test, make sure the final drive chain is on the bike.
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.
Go here, there's a pdf manual for all schwinn's bought at WalMart,Targets etc. between 2004 and 2007. I just got one yesterday and had no manual either. This seems to have about all you'll need.
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