Honda Shadow VT750CA, 2008, running kind of "not normal", with a little loss of power, dynamics, and hard vibrations. If the mechanics are all ok can the problem be caused by the ICM (ECM) malfunction? I've been struggling with this problem for like 3 years. Once in my first year of riding, I rode at 75-80 mph at the 4th gear on a highway for some time (I was sure it was 5th). Suddenly the bike started to vibrate and I pulled down. Since that time I can't make it run ok. As far as I see the vibration comes from the pipes as the exhaust became much stronger - the cars' alarms started to turn on as I pass by. The sound of the bike also changed - from a smooth hum on high rpm it turned to annoying roar or growl. The dynamics also went down or maybe it's because now I shift up earlier as the vibration and roar don't let me keep the rpm at the normal level. It also seems impossible to go faster than 80 mph. I've already done all "hardware" checks and maintenance - air and fuel supply, sparks, filters, valves and chain, carburetor, replaced exhaust pipes also with stock ones. Technically the bike is totally ok. Turning the mixture screw helps a bit to deal with the issue but not much as the bike performance change constantly - it seems to get worse as the bike heats up. After all, I'm starting to think of replacing the ICM. It's not a cheap part so I'd like to be sure and get some advice. Thanks in advance.
Look for intake leaks spray carb cleaner around the intake boots being careful not to get any near the mouth of the carbs. If there is a leak the rpms will change. Check the pipes careful not to get burnt but check for the same temperature on both pipes. If one is a lot hotter. You have a problem with the colder cylinder(compression, spark or air fuel mixture) If it has all 3 of those in the correct specification it will run. If all that checks out then sync the carbs. 2nd response: The timing gets a signal from the pickup coil. That could be bad. If it is single coil it will affect both cylinders. Both fire at the same time. One plug is a wasted spark because it is on the exhaust stroke. Dual pick up coils would fire each cylinder independent of the other. You could also check the fuel lines and make sure there is no obstruction or drawing in air. Check the float height to see that your bowls aren't running out of fuel. I should have mentioned this first but make sure your plugs and wires are in god shape. If it is hard to start and gets worse the warmer the engine gets check the valve lash. Hope that helps. I am out of ideas on what it could be if not any of those.
Testimonial: "Thanks for your reply. Tried with spray - no change. Compression is normal and equal in both cylinders. There is one carb in this model, no sync needed. I actually tried everything :) That's why I think it might be improper ignition timing."
SOURCE: transmission vibrations to heavy shaking between 30-45 mph
tranmission mount is broke change it before it breaks your motor mounts.
SOURCE: bad vibration engine trans under load
seems your problem is within your clutch,defective part,usually a defective release bearing will cause gear shifter and pedal vibration but not as bad as yours,but by pressing on clutch pedal vibration stops,point to clutch!
SOURCE: Gilera Nordwest Carb setting
Hi,
I have a gilera RC 600 which has the same engine as the nordwest, the problem could be the carb needs to be stripped and cleaned and replace the foam air filter with a paper one. For accurate advice and spares which are quickly posted, contact BOB WRIGHT at 0044193451033. He is the official UK gilera specialist, tell him I sent you, say the guy in southern Ireland, and he will look after you. Good Luck.
PS please rate me if this helped
SOURCE: 2000 Discover TD5 Auto harsh vibration under power at 2000 -2500
The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.
SOURCE: 2000 honda 1100 shadow spirit. Rough idle, little power.
Replace the spark plug caps and try again. On Honda's the cap is often part of the wire (a dealer part) NGK makes some inexpensive plug caps about $5 each. They should OHM out to 5000 anything above or below and you need to replace them. This should fix the problem.
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