Kawasaki KX500 1985 Model kick start mechanism goes soft after three to four kicks. We have overalled the head and new piston rings.

complete cylinder compression test. should be approx 120 psi
if low you will have to replace piston rings.

was bike running good before?

Yes, the problem is linked to compression getting past the rings. The pressure goes to the gearbox then some oil gets carried out of the box along with the compression. Too much oil in the gearbox makes the problem even worse. You shouldn't need pistons. Chances are the rings are just stuck in the piston ring grooves. Sometimes they can be freed up by the mechanic manipulating them. Often they break when manipulated. It all depends on how badly they are stuck. If a piston is badly scored it needs to be replaced. The scoring can stop the rings from sealing the cylinder. Do this; drain the oil then fill the box to the proper level. Wash the bike to rid it of previous oil spills. Now see if the problem returns after the washing. If the rings are stuck , the bike should be smoking as you start and ride it. Chances are that only the rings will need to be replaced. Any chance you can be there as the mechanic takes the cylinder off? A dishonest shop could bring you a badly scored piston and rings and say they came from your bike when in reality they came from another bike. They free up your rings and charge for new pistons and new rings as if they actually put them in.

Hi
Sounds like a broken piston ring, & now its embedded itself into the piston & / or barrel
Remove exhaust pipe & shine a light up into barrel / piston to inspect !!

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
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hi, will the shift lever shift up when the bike is being pushed along, is it stuck in neutral, if its in neutral then push it down make sure it goes into 1st gear then can u get someone to push u whilst holding the clutch in then release the clutch and see if you can jump start the bike that way.

when you push the kick start down is it turning the engine over properly and if so if the compression is really to low then the chances are the piston ring has broke and scored the side of the cylinder if this is the case then you need to get new piston and rings and a new cylinder.

The problem with moto x bikes is they are high power and work at really high temp so parts need changing more often the piston rings need changing every 25 to 35 hours of riding time you need to do this as they ware and brake if used any longer.

you also need to make sure you get the petrol and oil mixture spot on as if its not getting enough oil it will blow the piston and rings so you need to measure exactly the correct mixture.

these bike are expensive to maintain and need new parts on a regular basis so remember this the next time you get the bike running

THREE TEST CYCLES IS REQUIRED TO CONFIRM READING WITH THROTTLE HELD WIPDE OPEN

Find a new dealer. Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} There is a proper way to start the engine. Generally four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

Take off seat, and tank.
Drain coolant, remove exhaust, remove coil, and ground wire from head.
Remove triangle head stays, and spark plug.
Remove right side power valve cover, and clip and spacer for the power valve arm.
Remove four cylinder nuts.
(If you remove the lower radiator hose that goes between the left and right radiator, you can get the cylinder off without removing the head.)
Use a soft blow, or dead blow hammer to free up the cylinder (Piece of wood)
Use kick starter to get piston low, and carefully remove cylinder upward.
Put a rag around connecting rod, and remove piston pin clip on one side. (So the clip doesn't fall into engine) Then push the pin out and remove the piston.
Note, you will have a mark on the left side of the cylinder of "A" or "B" for a stock piston, but Wiseco's don't use this.
Use caution when putting on the new ring, and getting the cylinder onto it as not to twist the cylinder because it will "catch" the end of the ring and do damage.

Does it feel like yhe kick is even engaging and turning the crankshaft? Are you full stroking/kicking it over or short stroking it? when cold, are you using the choke. I suggest taking a compression test when it feels as if it hs no compression It could be undersized piston, rings, or a simple. good luck

It sounds like time to do a top end job. The head will need to come off, then the valves should be re-seated. Carbon should be removed from the head and piston crown. Since you did not mention any engine smoking, I assume the rings are okay. If you are going to do anything with the cylinder, piston and rings, now would be a good time. But remember, if it isn't broken don't fix it.

If you do the work yourself be sure to start with the piston on TDC compression. Note the timing marks stamped on the overhead cam. The piston and marks will need to be in the same position when reassembling.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Once u have the piston out then there is a tool you can use for extracting the rings or you can simply use strips of tin and slide it behind the rings from were the two ends of the ring meet and slide them round the piston. Be very careful when putting the new rings on because ther are quite brittle