Battery would not charge while bike is running.

Its better u take it to a motorcycle service, they can check the voltage that the scooter produces to charge the battery, maybe its the regulator or the magnetic field.

Stator coil on end of crankshaft then wires to regulator rectifier wires to battery through the main switch

A couple possible problems: 1. Battery is old and sulfonated preventing the charge to hold. 2. Stator has gone south and needs replacing, Both can be checked by a competent mechanic.

Most stators are 3 phase, meaning each positive wire produces up to 14.4 volts or close. Using a multimeter each wire can be checked. I don't know the model of your bike but usually leads from the rectifier are close to the battery but don't have to be. The rectifier converts AC from the stator to DC to charge the battery. Check each leg before and after the rectifier with a multimeter. If any leg doesn't produce more than 13v the the rectifier needs replacing.

If not charging then it can only be either the stator windings or the regulator/rectifier. The silver "box" with fins on it is your rectifier. Good chance that's the problem...Try another rectifier and put a multimeter on battery terminals. Check voltage when not running then check with bike running. Fully charged battery should show approx 12.4 volts. With bike running it should show approx 13 plus volts which will tell you that it's charging. Usually it will be the rectifier rather than the stator windings that stops it charging.

sounds like the regulator/rectifier has failed. you need to check that you are getting 13.5 14.8 volts at the battery when bike is running, higher means failed unit and under means same. you need a diode tester to measure reg/rectifier and will also need to check stator output with multi meter on AC, should get 60-100 volts when bike revved with stator wire unplugged from regulator.
best solution is to take to your local shop and get them to perform these and other tests to confirm as electrical parts are generally not returnable once purchased as very easy to damage if put into a bike with other charging system faults

Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:

• rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
• corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
• faulty stator (least likely).

The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

yes it should just replaced the regulator rectifier on my friends bike same problem as yours he kept replaceing battery and rechargeing it. it was the regulator( 5 wire box just to the left of the seat on his 01 gsxr 750) it costed 81.00 from bikebandit.com
to test it you can start by putting a volt meter on the battery and checking volts off (12v) and then running, it should go above 13v if the volts dont go up then its prob the regulator rectifier box to check your stator i use my meter for hertz or cycles or a tach one wire to ground and one wire to the yellow wires from the stator one at a time the tach should read same as the one on the bike on all three wires
hopefully it reads good cause it is a whole lot easer to replace the vrr than the stator
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/15213?mg=6904&t=1&td=1
good luck
hope i helped

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

The most common problem is the 3-wire connector being burnt between the stator and regulator/rectifier. It has also been commonly reported that the regulator/rectifier and/or stator may need replacement.