Question about 2004 Yamaha PW 50
Posted by Anonymous on
Thats hard to say if you can compare the Numbers of the frame and bolts then you can see if its working.
Posted on Aug 07, 2019
I have worked at a Yamaha dealer for 15 years the beauty of a yamaha pw50 is it has not changed... for the most part.. it will bolt up. As long as you have the wireing harness/cdi components. Also the throttle cable and throttle may need to be taken from the older bike as well.... keep it easy swap the frame and the frame alone and you'll be ok
Posted on Aug 07, 2019
Hi, Anonymous the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and enquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts enquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
YAMAHA PW50 Owner Manual
Posted on Jul 26, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most likely a combination of sparkplug heat range (type of plug) and jetting, needle or air mixture settings in the carburetor. Assuming good condition of air filter and operation of the choke plunger. Are you using the correct octane fuel and fuel/oil ratio? Give the plug a clean and emery the spark contacts, set gap at 0.7mm., ideally take the plug to a Yammy dealer and check for correct range for your bike in the area where you ride.
Best to have a range of spare clean plugs handy for wet or hot days etc.
The jetting maybe dirty or wrong size too. In the meantime move the throttle needle clip down one notch. Refer to the site below for a diagram of the carburetor parts. Cheers.
Posted on May 11, 2010
No, as they are not in a position to complain about it anyway. Anything is possible if you are prepared to do a bit of metal work.
Main criteria is whether the frame/suspension is able to cope with the different engine's weight, centre of balance and horsepower!
At least four mounting positions are paramount..
front of crankcase,
top/rear crankcase and
the cylinder head.
Of course the final drive will have to be on the same side.
Ensure drive and rear sprocket/chain are the same ptich/width.
Exhaust header(s) are harder to change than pipe and muffler(s)
and carby(s) have limited scope for manouvre.
Foot levers must also clear frame (gears) and crankcases (rear brake)
Clutch actuation is relatively easy.
Electrics are very dependent on compatibility and I would use the wiring loom from the motor over the frames wiring, depending of course on the make/model/year etc.
Bear in mind that putting it "on the road legally" will be an uphill battle. The system is designed to thwart this sort of thing when seeking engineering certificates for roadworthyness. But I do wish you good luck regardless of your intended use.
Posted on May 22, 2010
SOURCE: Is it possible in the frame of Yamaha xv 750 from 1981 engine of 1987 Yamaha xj 750 maxim to be fitted without major modifications? And if other parts such as wheels, fork, tank can also be fitted wit
Depends what you call major modifications. You are certainly going to need some high grade cutting and welding. Many would regard those as major modifications. Some would not! Additionally some basic research as to the length and diameter of the fork tubes will tell you a lot. I assume that you have worked out whether the length and alignment of the drive shaft is the same.
Posted on Sep 17, 2014
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