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Will not rev past 7,000 rpm Suzuki Raider 150

Why my Suzuki raider 150 does not run at higher than 7,000 rpm. @

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 59,368 Answers

Hi, John engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into Suzuki Raider 150 your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://katriders.com/forum/service-department/mechanics-101/70944-bike-won-t-go-past-7000-rpm
https://www.gixxer.com/forums/137-08-10-gsx-r600-750/736369-another-wont-rev-past-problem.html
https://lubenertioti.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/61.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki Raider 150 FU150SC Owner Manual

Posted on Aug 17, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Kyle Vance

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki raider r150

What are you talking about?

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

Mr BrokRench

Mr BrokRench

  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: I've got a suzuki GSX-R750.

Hello logan...the FI light is a generic light that indicates and fault in the injection system has been detected by one or more of the systems sensors. A sensor has detected a malfunction and has sent an error message to the engine controller. The engine controller turns the light on, To determine what exactly triggered the light, the bike will have to be be scan with dealer scanner and software to retrive codes. Normally the problem is electrical that causes the ECM to missfire or starve the injectors of fuel...that is why your bike has a "loss of power" ...In your case, i would bet it's something to do with the temp sensor.
There is a way to retrive the codes yourself by manually putting your bike in "dealer mode" ..If you feel confident and wish to do this procedure, let me know and i will give you the steps, the codes, and what the codes mean. Otherwise, you need a technician to scan it. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 16, 2011

cardiffspoke

Alex Newman

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki raider 150 after market carburetor bad idling

you can turn the idle speed up with the brassy looking screw on the side of the carb. It attaches to the part the throttle cable turns.

Posted on Aug 16, 2012

tenkaichy

tenkaichy

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2 months old suzuki raider

thats normal change your oil frequently evry 1000km

Posted on Oct 03, 2012

gregg201

Gregg Mahin

  • 59368 Answers

SOURCE: Mga bosing ask ko lang po kung ano problem ng suzuki raider 150 ko bigla nalang namamatay in high speed or low speed marami na po kasi ako napalitan sensor carburator spark plug

Hi, Norlan the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Loss Of Power Troubleshooting Bogging Down BuggyDepot com 150cc...
http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-119629-p-3.html
Why is the engine bogging under acceleration Suzuki FA50 Moped
Suzuki Raider 150 FU150SC Owner Manual
http://mototh.com/files/suzuki/Raider-150R/Suzuki-Raider-150R-parts.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Apr 25, 2016

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Mga bosing ask ko lang po kung ano problem ng suzuki raider 150 ko bigla nalang namamatay in high speed or low speed marami na po kasi ako napalitan sensor carburator spark plug


Hi, Norlan the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Loss Of Power Troubleshooting Bogging Down BuggyDepot com 150cc...
http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-119629-p-3.html
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Suzuki Raider 150 FU150SC Owner Manual
http://mototh.com/files/suzuki/Raider-150R/Suzuki-Raider-150R-parts.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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you can turn the idle speed up with the brassy looking screw on the side of the carb. It attaches to the part the throttle cable turns.

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