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Stephen Webster Posted on Oct 01, 2019
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After replacement of friction plates, The clutch is not engaging. how do I fix this

I have good pressure at both ends of the clutch cable, it feels like it is pushing the rod

1 Answer

2TOMMYCAT1

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  • Expert 92 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2019
2TOMMYCAT1
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Make sure plates are seated and not loose when assembled. There should be no slack in plates.

5 Related Answers

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 17, 2009

SOURCE: yz 125 2001 stays in gear when clutch pulled in

Lose the Honda transmission oil. It may have swollen the cork on the friction plates. Go with 10w40 in the gearbox. Any major brand; Mobil, Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil, etc.. Try the new oil and give the cork a week to shrink back down > if they will. You may need to put in a new set of plates.

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Anonymous

  • 137 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: yz 125 2001 stays in gear with clutch pulled in

hi m8,,this might sound stupid,, but in winter dayz and salty conditions ,cables corrode in side,,so i can start some where to help,, 1st take the cable off the handle bar,, and the clutch casin,,get a little bit of oil in a jam jar or any thing like that,,dip one end of the cable in the oil ,and keep pullin and pushing the inner cable as if u were trying to draw oil up threw the inside of the cable ,, turn cable the other end and repeat,, try that 1st m8,, still have probs come bk, and il go threw the next step,,

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 30, 2009

SOURCE: Clutch wont engage after kickstarter shaft installation.

The clutch lever must have been pushed in when i tried to install the push rod the first time so the push rod didn't get pushed in all the way.

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Anonymous

  • 32 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2009

SOURCE: Clutch push rod will not depress to engage

go to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rt1-19701971_model8356/partslist/A-09.html and then click on "view big image", this will give you a diagram of the clutch etc,, the adjustment (No. 26) may need looking at, or (No.11,12,) have broken.Basically you turn 26 in (clockwise) untill you feel light resistance then back off 1/2 turn (been years since i worked on one of these!) this should give you freeplay, have you just got the bike?, and do you think it has been stripped lately(ie the clutch). PS I am not affiliated with the web site i offered above, just a handy reference for you maybe? cheers

joecoolvette

joecoolvette

  • 5660 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: replaced clutch in 3000GT, all new parts, plate,

Are you sure the clutch disc is installed in the correct direction?
Admittedly, I haven't seen the clutch disc for a Mitsubishi 3000GT, but I have seen my share in many makes of vehicles.

The clutch disc may be one of those that will install in either direction. Some clutch discs are made so that the inner hub with springs, can be installed towards the crankshaft, or towards the tranny.


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0helpful
1answer

My toyota fortuner 3l d4d 2007 I notice the clutch pedal feels a bit harder than normal any cause of this?


A harder clutch pedal in your Toyota Fortuner 3.0L D4D 2007 could be indicative of several potential issues. It's important to have a qualified mechanic inspect and diagnose the specific cause, but I can suggest some common reasons for a harder clutch pedal:

  • Clutch Wear:
  • The clutch may be nearing the end of its life and may require replacement. Over time, the clutch disc and pressure plate can wear, leading to a harder pedal feel.
  • Clutch Hydraulic System Issues:
  • The hydraulic system, including the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines, could be leaking, damaged, or experiencing air bubbles, resulting in a harder pedal feel. Inspect for any leaks or damage in these components.
  • Clutch Cable Issues (if applicable):
  • If your Fortuner uses a mechanical clutch linkage with a cable, the cable could be stretched, frayed, or damaged, causing increased resistance in the pedal.
  • Clutch Release Bearing:
  • The clutch release bearing may be failing or worn out, causing increased resistance when engaging and disengaging the clutch.
  • Clutch Fork or Pivot Issues:
  • The clutch fork or its pivot may be damaged or experiencing increased friction, making the pedal feel harder.
  • Pressure Plate Issues:
  • The pressure plate, which engages and disengages the clutch, might have issues like wear, warping, or damage, affecting the pedal feel.
  • Flywheel Problems:
  • The flywheel could be worn, damaged, or have hot spots, affecting the clutch engagement and the pedal feel.
  • Improperly Lubricated Components:
  • Lack of lubrication in the clutch linkage or pedal assembly can cause increased friction and result in a harder pedal.
Conclusion.
It's essential to address any clutch-related issues promptly to prevent further damage and ensure the safety and performance of your vehicle. It's recommended to have a professional mechanic inspect and diagnose the specific cause of the harder clutch pedal in your Toyota Fortuner.
0helpful
1answer

My 2001 Hyundai elantra won't go anywhere in any gear the clutch pedal still feels good and strong though and makes no noise or chatter when engaged or disengaged where do I begin

if cable check the cable for broken wires --replace the cable
if hydraulic , replace the clutch master cylinder
even though the pedal feels good if it is a cable it may be jamming and not allowing full pressure on the clutch plate by the pressure plate
same with the hydraulic system
have some one operate the clutch pedal while you check the throw out arm at the box bell housing
It should have around 2" or more movement
0helpful
2answers

Clutch pedal stays on floor and cant shift into gear if started in gear car will jump, has brand new clutch cable i just replaced

Did you replace the clutch and/or cable yourself? If so, did it work properly at any point? If so, did it seem to 'break,' i.e., did you feel a sudden snap of any kind as you depressed the clutch, and it has stayed on the floor since? If that is not the case, please provide more info. The symptoms indicate that the clutch cable disconnected at one end or the other, or else some component on the clutch end failed. I would start with the connection at the clutch pedal. Ensure it is connected, and then pull up on the pedal to see whether there is any resistance. If it is connected, but there is no resistance, then the cable is likely disconnected at the other end. It can happen very easily. Sometimes they seem to be in place, but work loose or get caught at just the right angle the first time you engage it, and it pops out of place. Good luck!
0helpful
1answer

97 750 suzuki katana clutch engages but bike stalls out when shifting to first

In which case the clutch is not properly dis-engaging. Adjust the clutch cable properly, if this still doesn't fix it you will need to replace the clutch friction plates at the very least.
0helpful
1answer

Put clutch into gear but no movement

Replacing the clutch is fairly easy on most motorcycles. A factory repair manual is helpful and suggested, but in a nutshell, here's the proceedure.
There is a round cover on the right side of the engine, this is the clutch cover. After draining the oil, remove the cover and this will expose the clutch pressure plate that will be retained with a number of washered bolts and springs. Remove the pressure plate, and the clutch plates can be removed. There will be alternating friction and steel plates-remove them all and keep them in a stack in the order they were removed. Soak the new friction plates in oil before installation. Install the new plates starting and ending with friction, alternating a steel plate in between.Be aware that some motorcycles have a different first and last friction plate, your parts dealer should know that when you buy the parts.
After it's stacked reinstall pressure plate with new springs, bottom out the washered bolts and no additional torque is required. Reinstall cover with new gasket, fill with oil and adjust clutch lever so it has enough slack to slide a quarter in between the lever and perch. Good luck!
0helpful
2answers

My rpm turns higher but my speed still remains the same.

Sounds like you have a slipping clutch. You can check your owners manual for the proper clutch lever free play. A quick check would be to see where you are starting to engage the clutch or friction zone. With the bike warmed up and running, shift into 1st gear and then start to slowly releash the clutch lever. If the clutch does not start to engage until the lever is 80% released, then you can try adjusting the clutch lever free play. You can do this simply by sliding the rubber cover from the clutch lever. If the cable end is showing a lot of threads then you can loosen the larger lock nut, a serrated looking wheel with a slot in it, and give the cable end a few turns in. Lock in the lock nut and start the bike and see if the friction zone is catching earlier. Try adjusting to get it to catch within the middle of the travel. Once you feel you have the clutch adjusted, give it a road test to see if the engine will not rev higher without a corresponding increase in motorcycle speed. The owners manual will give you a precise range where the clutch lever free play should fall, usually measured from the end of the clutch lever. If the clutch seems to be adjusted properly, then a worn out clutch could be the problem.

Good luck.
1helpful
1answer

Can't get the clutch on a suzuki 800 intruder to hold pressure

Oil should be 10W40 SF or SG grade. Anything else will cause the clutch to slip. There must be freeplay on the clutch cable (0.4-0.6in). Adjust handle bar clutch lever screw all the way out then adjust at gearbox end and revert to handle bar adjustment for fine adjustments. If this does not solve the problem take the clutch apart and measure driven plate thickness (3.12in minimum for the 1st plate and 2.62in minimum for the others)
Measure clutch spring free length. There are 2 sets (4 springs each). 0.97in minimum and 0.92in minimum respectively.
A slipping clutch is caused by incorrect friction, that is incorrect oil or insufficient pressure. Pressure is supplied by the springs on the discs and driven plates.
If the discs, driven plates or bucket is worn it will cause slippage.
If you pull in the clutch and it disengages but starts to re- engage after a short period you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder seals.
1helpful
2answers

IVE PUT MY CLUTCH BACK TOGETHER AND ITS WONT WORK

have you checked that the clutch plates have been placed correctly and that the cable has the correct length, It should have a max of 5mm Slack so it fully dis-engages when let go
Also if clutch plates are not correct it wont work, you should start with a friction plate with odd groves, Then steel spacer, then next friction plate till you end up with last plate being a friction plate The last plate is also a plate with odd groves/design unlike the plates in between which are all similar
13helpful
3answers

My clutch in my rm 250 wont disengage i know the pressure plate is moving but it still wont disengage?

If you put synthetic oil or an oil with "Special" additives in the gearbox the cork on the fiber friction plates may be swollen. The swelling can cause the clutch to stay engaged, Only use standard 10w40 motor oil in the gearbox. You will need new fiber friction plates if that is what has happened. Normally the only other three things that would cause the problem are a worn shift arm, a bent push rod and a badly worn cable.

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0helpful
1answer

Clutch wont engage

It sounds like the clutch must be incorrectly assembled. No offense meant, is is easy to miss one little thing. Go to the site below and look at the clutch diagram. Note that the assembly begins and ends with a friction plate and that a metal pressure plate goes between each friction plate. You should have 7 metal pressure plates and 8 friction plates.

The clutch outer basket seldom goes bad unless hit with a hammer or a tree. Why did it need to be replaced? Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one? They may have given you the wrong basket. The tighter the cable the less likely the clutch will engage. You should have 1/4" end play at the handlebar lever. By the way, exactly what oil did you put in the gearbox after replacing the clutch? Okay, this is a good start. Post a comment if you need to get back to me.

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