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I have 110 gio that wont charge tried stator,voltage reg ,and cdi still woht charge

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 6,015 Answers

If the stator windings are good, the rotor magnets are good and the engine runs, there has to be an alternating current output from the stator and if the wiring is correct, the combined rectifier and regulator is working correctly and the battery healthy, it must charge.

I think you have missed something...
Do you have an alternating current output from the stator when it is disconnected?

Some older machines, Honda in particular, had a convoluted method of regulating the charging current using the headlamp switch and it took a lot of staring at the circuit diagram to check it through...

Posted on Oct 18, 2019

Testimonial: "in the morning i will retest the white wire comming out of the stator i think for this bike it should be 9.5v on acv if i am wrong please let me know i did a load test on battery ok"

  • 3 more comments 
  • Vernon Taylor Oct 18, 2019

    9.5v seems a bit low for a 12 volt system but would be OK for a 6 volt system after rectification and regulation, especially if it is a single phase alternator. It has been many years since I have encountered a single phase alternator on a bike - not since dealing with flywheel magnetos. There is usually 2, 3 or 4 wires...

  • Mustang Sally Oct 18, 2019

    it is a 5 wire system and what would you be looking for on the charging wire with a single phase alter.? thank you

  • Vernon Taylor Oct 18, 2019

    5 wires coming out of the alternator is something I have never before seen and I would need to see the circuit before I could understand it though the presence of all those wires indicates a 3 phase alternator - 3 wires for a delta configuration and 4 wires for a star. In both cases all the wires would go to the rectifier, though as I said before, one or more might take a devious route. There wouldn't be a single charging wire. Have you identified the function of the other wires?

  • Mustang Sally Oct 18, 2019

    as far as i know it is a single phase i have a white which is the charge yellow lighting blue/white pickup green ground and black/red pluse

  • Vernon Taylor Oct 18, 2019

    Thanks; it makes more sense knowing the ignition is in there and the lighting has it's own output. Clearly only a modest charge rate is possible or expected. I don't know the exact voltage but I would expect around 12 volts ac, maybe more, so after full wave rectification it should produce a dc voltage of at least 13.5 and possibly as high as 14 volts, depending on the regulator...

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

wd4ity

wd4ity

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not

First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

heimlich

David Belcher

  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: 92 virago 750. Front

You have to test all the electronics on the bike to figure out if you have a bad CDI box. A CDI box can test good and still be bad. Your problem sounds more like a bad spark plug cap. Unscrew the cap from the end of the wire and take an OHM reading on the cap. If it is higher or lower than 5000 OHMs replace the cap . A plug cap from NGK runs about $5. Replace them both for about $10 it should take care of the problem.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

Alexedwa97

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bike wont fire. has no spark

I don't know what motor wires go to which???

Posted on Mar 22, 2012

talentedfox

talentedfox

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: spark problems with 110 atv

this is the wireing diagram for my 200cc atv, not sure of the make and model yet ,,,,, LOOKS LIKE A FALCON OR RAPTOR,KAZUMA LOL.


kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, black wire with white stripe wire

kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, green wire

kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, light blue wire




starter button ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, red/yellow wire

starter button ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, light blue wire


remember their are 2 light blue wire,s so please check , so if its not the 1 from the kill switch then it must be the 1 from the starter button ect.


solonoid ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, left hand side thick red wire to battery

solonoid ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, right hand side thin green/yellow to red yellow starter button.


green form the kill switch to the green on the fuse box

green and red to battery

so 3x red wire to the battery pos and 1 wire for the negitive which get grounded to the frame

3 x red wire with the extented wire wich i used was blue to battery positive

1 x blue wire thats the extended wire join to blue wire the to battery

1 x yellow/green wire to ground on battery

1x red from starter motor to right hand solonoid,



and thats it atv should run ,,,, the only problem i have now is the spark from the spark plug hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Posted on Aug 18, 2012

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1 Answer

Gsx r 750 1998. Battery holds charge when riding with lights off. But not with lights on. Stator or rect/reg??


Definitely a charging issue. Always check the battery first, I prefer a gel cell battery over acid. Battery must be good and strong to charge properly. This charging system is so small , it only operates enough to maintain battery voltage. Normally it wont charge a weak battery, so start there first. you can check the voltage coming from the stator, at 3k RPM you should be getting around 60-80 volts per leg. If each stator leg checks within these results, it will be a good stator. The reg/rect is not something I can tell you how to check on the bike. We have a stand alone system here where we bench test them off the bike to eliminate the rest of the system to test Just the reg/rect.
I have these stators here new also have the reg/rect, both have a one year warranty. If you need more help let me know. Thanks

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You may need to clean connectors on battery wires ,or replace a fuse. The charge depleating could also be caused by a bad stator, stator wire conection or voltage regulator. after battery is charged test volts at battery while running, they should raise when rpms are increased to 1500 or 2000 or so, idle voltage may be 12 volts with rpms raised volts should go up to as much as 14.8 or so if all is well.if not keep looking for the problem from volt reg. back to stator .also stator output is AC and regulator output is DC.

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I have a 1980 suzuki 850 gs and its not charging the battery properly what should i do and where is the charging system located on the engine


As suggested, check the voltage with the engine running accross the battery. If its below 14 volts you have an issue with the stator windings/regulator/rectifier/wiring.
Do the cheapest thing first and clean up all electrical connections, esp the earths.
A manual will tell you how to test the charging system, but the Suzuki GS range has always had charging issues.
The simplist method is to fit the combined reg/rectifier unit from a Honda CB250/400 Superdream.
Always keep your engine oil topped to the max mark, as this cools the stator.
Dont leave this, it is not unknown for the entire system to fail including the CDI if left unchecked.

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2 Answers

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Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:
  • rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
  • corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
  • faulty stator (least likely).
The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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Sounds like the CDI was bad to begin with not the stator. The stator puts out unregulated power. The CDI regulates the voltage output as well as sends power to the coils. Hope this helps...

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1 Answer

Wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt


your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

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