The hydraulic clutch will not disengage. I rebuilt the master cyclinder and have pressure to the slave cylinder but the clutch will not disengage. The bike has about 10,000 miles on it. This happened last year and I bled the system and it worked after that until now.

The clutch cylinder and brake are fed off the same reservoir, but we get them separately from chrysler. Dot 3 fluid also.
Here is some info, and a picture of the system.

The clutch hydraulic system is responsible for engaging and disengaging the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This pressure is transmitted to the integral release bearing which is in contact with the pressure plate diaphragm spring. As additional force is applied, the bearing depresses the diaphragm spring fingers inward on the fulcrums. The action moves the pressure plate rearward, relieving clamping force on the clutch disc.




The typical clutch hydraulic system consists of a clutch master cylinder (4) Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) and an interconnecting fluid line (2). Clutch hydraulic fluid is supplied by the brake system via the brake master cylinder reservoir (1). The clutch pedal pushrod (3) is non-adjustable.

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Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level or linkage (if it's not a hydraulic clutch). Look for new fluid leaks around transmission. Otherwise, you may have a clutch master/slave cylinder failure.

It's your hydraulic clutch system that probably isn't working. When you press the clutch pedal down, it causes the clutch master cylinder to put pressure in the line to the transmission's little "slave cylinder" that operates the clutch inside the transmission bell housing. This disengages the engine from the transmission so you can shift gears. It's probably not putting the slave cylinder to work by hydraulic pressure. The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the firewall, similar to the brake master cylinder, the clutch cylinder has a reservoir and you may need to add brake fluid to it. If it is dry, then you will need the system bled at the slave cylinder by a pro or someone who understands how. Pretty simple, really, just like bleeding brakes. Also the clutch master cylinder can develop internal leaks and this will lead to loss of clutch.

Depends upon which master cylinder you are referring to. All cars have a master cylinder in the brake system. This device contains a reservoir for brake fluid and is activated when you press the brake pedal to provide the hydraulic pressure that runs through the brake lines to the wheels to provide stopping power. If the car has a manual transmission, it may also have a master and slave cylinder in the clutch system. Works similarly to the brake system but the hydraulic pressure here is used to disengage the clutch disc from the pressure plate to allow for shifting.

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

The clutch master cylinder must have gone out, the seals in it have failed. The clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder) gives you hydraulic pressure so the clutch pedal can operate the clutch.
You can buy a new clutch master, a rebuilt unit, or yours can be rebuilt with new seals. Save time and money and buy a rebuilt or remanufactured unit. Once installed, you bleed the system down at the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transaxle.

sounds like your clutch is not disengaged from the transmission or you have bad syncro's. If you have a hydraulic clutch the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder could be worn and not holding hydraulic pressure. Look for a fluid leak under the dash coming threw the firewall or at the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission. All are real possibilities. Good luck!

The Golf has a hydraulic type clutch, it works off a master cylinder and uses a slave cylinder to engage and disengage. It has a hydraulic line, hose and tubing. Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? Are there any leaks under your car? Often the seals go out on the slave cylinder and the fluid bypasses not allowing any pressure to build, resulting in a soft pedal that goes to the floor. Fill the master cylinder with approved fluid and "pump" the pedal by hand, you should start feeling some pressure build. Then check for leaks. if that is not the problem, you will need to troubleshoot the clutch for pressure plate problems or possible faulty master cylinder. Good luck, i hope this helps.

There are a couple of possibilities; worn clutch plate, failed pressure plate, possible hanging up of the throw-out bearing. Also, some hydraulic clutches have a throw adjustment on the slave cylinder that may need adjustment after replacing the slave cylinder.
If you plan on more DIY maintenance, I would highly recommend buying a Haynes service manual, you'll find the $25 well-spent:
Toyota pickup manual

You are in the wrong section of FixYa, but I can help you.
The reason why you are having trouble changing gears is your clutch is not disengaging properly from the engine when you press the clutch peddle.
If the clutch is a cable type control, then the clutch cable and clutch lever may need adjusting to disengage the gearbox from the engine so you can change gears without crunching the gears.
If the clutch is hydraulic type, you could have air in the system or you have leaky hydraulic seals, both of which will prevent the clutch from disengaging from the engine properly. Check the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. If there are leaks you need to replace the seals and if the master and slave cylinders are badly scored then they need to be replaced as well.
If there are no hydraulic leaks then bleed the hydraulic line to remove the air in the hydraulic system, you may also need to adjust the push rod from the slave cylinder to adjust the clutch lever arm so when the clutch peddle is depressed the clutch fully disengages the engine.