Ign. coils have 1 green terminal, and 1 black. which is power in, and which go to the pick-ups via the igniter box

Sorry, again far away from my expertise but if you have a pick up/can sensor with electronic module you should not need another electronic ignition module. I am not clear on what you do have. I also do not know why anyone would go back to points and condenser but if you did you would have to have ignition without any electronic modules. unless you tried to incorporate some kind of CDI system operated with points. I wonder if you cannot find an after market complete ignition system for what you are trying to do. I do not know how much you know or understand about primary or secondary ignition wiring or how the coil works. The coil usually has current to it at all times unless and until the points open or a transistor opens or cuts the flow of current to ground which collapses the primary current into the secondary windings which induces the high voltage to spark the plug. So, whatever system you have or devise it must do that. It must be able to control the current flow through the coil primary windings by cutting it off at the proper time to induce a spark at the correct time. Points do this by opening and transistorized or electronic ignition do this with semiconductors or transistors.

green wire to 1 coil black wire to other..and 1 red to each

hook a volt meter up to it paying attention to the red and black
terminals of the tester , turn the ignition on to power up the coil
red on the right terminal black on the motor it should read + V
then switch the tester leads around check again , usually the
coils are marked not the wires .

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A couple of initial checks:

• 2nd 10A fuse in the fuse box;
• IGN +12 on black/white wires going to the ignition coils;
• IGN +12 on black wire going to the ignition control module;
• IGN +12 on black/yellow and black white wires of the engine stop switch;
• pulsing low AC voltage from the ignition pulse generator (white/yellow and yellow wires);
• start with the sidestand folded up and/or the clutch pulled in.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, suggested checks on the wires:

• black of igniter unit tied to ground;
• orange wire from igniter to ignition coil with pulsating voltage when starting;
• gray wire from igniter to ignition coil with pulsating voltage when starting;
• IGN + 12 on red/white wire to igniter and ignition coils from engine stop switch;
• IGN + 12 on red/white wire to engine stop switch coming from 10Amp ignition fuse;
• pulsating low voltage from pickup coil between the wires black/white, white/green & yellow/red.

Postback results of above voltage tests.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On your requirement to "...rewire the ignition system..." of an XS650, below basic ignitor wiring scheme maybe of reference:

• white / red - from pick up;
• white / green - from pick up;
• black / white - from pick up;
• orange - to ignition coil;
• red / white - IGN + 12 from engine stop switch ;
• black - ground;

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, when starting check for the presence or absence of :

• +12 on the red wires of the ignition coil;
• very high pulsating voltage on the black & green wires from the CDI to the other terminals of the coils;
• very low pulsating voltage (0.5VAC) between the green & black wires from pulser coil;
• +12 on the brown wire of the CDI.

Additionally, try starting with the clutch lever pulled in and/or the side stand folded up.

Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

I've this data from my 1986 engine!

Under the left hand side cover there are 2 2-wire connections. One with a green and a black wire, one with a blue and a yellow wire.
Use an ohmmeter at R x 100 between both wires of a connector to check the pick-up coils: resistance must be between 130 and 180 Ohms.

The values of the ignition coil resistances are:
primary coil : 3-5ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1 )
Secundary coil : 25.000 - 45.000 ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1.000 )
For a correct measurement ALL leads must be disconnected ( also the spark plug leads )

The CDI cannot be tested with a simple measurement. Suzuki dealers have a special tool to test CDI boxes.
But checking the pick-up coils and ignition coils good will indicate an defective CDI.

The wires on the CDI:
Blue: PU coil 1 ( cyl 1-4 )
Yellow: PU coil 1
Green: PU coil 2 ( cyl 2-3 )
Blue : PU coil 2
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 1-4
White : switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 2-3
Blue/yellow: switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4 ( and signal to tachometer )
Blue/white : ground

Thus, you must have +12V on both Orange/white leads.

if module is fine try replacing pick-up coil located in distributor.