No manule too tell me about changing o ring at

This could be cause by a number of things. You could have bad bearings in the starter motor, a bad bearing in the reduction gear housing, a bad Bendix or overrunning clutch, or a bad bearing in the outer primary. Or, you could have a bad starer drive gear or ring gear. There's just no way of knowing for certain until you go into the primary and starter to check it all out.

Disconnect the battery cable and take the outer primary cover off. Inspect the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and the bearing in the outer primary cover. Inspect the teeth on the starter gear to see if they look chewed up. Take the starter shaft out and look at the back end of the shaft to see if the bearing that supports that end of the shaft has went bad. Finally take the starter off and check the bearings in the starter motor. If you disassemble the starter motor, sometimes the brushes can be difficult to get back together. I usually use small 3" or 4" plastic wire ties to hold the brushes back while I reassemble the starter.

Good Luck
Steve

All you have to do is drain and pull the primary cover. Now, I can't remember whether the '97 clutch had the bolts that hold it together or the snap ring. If it has the six bolts holding the clutch spring in, simply take the bolts out and your clutch assembly comes apart. You can change the fiber plates and the spring plate in the middle. If your clutch is held together with a snap ring, you'll need a special tool to disassemble the clutch. You can replace the friction plates, steel plates and the spring plate without taking the entire clutch off the mainshaft with either clutch.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok here is the spec for primary oil, if you take off the clutch inspection cover and look inside, you will see a metal or silver ring around the clutch, look closely inside, this will be your spec.

Once you locate this ring around the clutch, put the bike upright and level, and start filling the primary from where the clutch is. Once the fluid reaches the bottom of this ring with the bike upright and level, you have just reached the spec.

It should be about 1 quart.

I usually just put in a quart.

On your '96 model, you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch pack. The tool is # HD-38515A clutch spring compression tool. Jim's and several other manufacturers make this tool. JP Cycle has a Jim's Part Number: 620-198 for $50.

Disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Remove any floorboards and other thing necessary to get the outer primary cover off. Using the above mentioned tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring that holds the spring in. Take note that there is a lock ring seat on top of the spring. This part is like a solid ring that goes behind the lock ring. It is "L" shaped so pay particular attention to the way it is positioned. Once you get the lock ring off, release the tension on the tool and allow the spring to come out of the clutch outer drum. Start taking the old disc out and laying them aside. Notice where the "sping plate" goes in the clutch stack. Replace it in the same position. Soak your new plates in oil overnight and then install them into the clutch drum exactly like the old ones came out. Install the spring and use the compression tool to install the lock ring and seat.

Adjust the clutch according to service manual directions and replace the outer primary cover. Add oil and reconnect the battery.

Ride Safe
Steve

In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.

Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.

Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.

Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.

For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

As far as I know, it comes off just like any other clutch. The changes that convert the bike into right hand drive are all in the transmission. Drain and remove the primary cover, remove the compensator nut, remove the plate held into the clutch pack by the snap ring, take the mainshaft nut off that holds the clutch on (NOTE: Left-Handed threads), take the primary chain adjuster off. Lift the compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch off as a unit.

Good Luck
Steve

The flat gasket is the new "replacement" gasket for the O-ring. But, to tell the truth, I run both the O-ring and the flat gasket. Never a leak. Good Luck, Steve

drain primary fluid,remove clutch inspection cover make sure not to lose spring hex when removing,with small screw driver turn adjuster so the hex nut screws out (left handed threads) remove ball and ramp off cable careful not to drop anything into primary.okay now go up cable to mid-range adjuster and back off (together) then go up to clutch lever and remove there a snap ring that you should replace and be mindful of cable rounting then go back down to primary cover and remove,when putting new one in be sure not to over tighten and don't forget o-ring, after all reinstalled to adjust clutch screw adjuster in to it lightly seats and back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and adjust mid range until you have a 1/16 to 1/8 freeplay at lever pull and release three times to make sure the ramp and ball have seated good luck

First, disconnect the battery. Then, remove the shifter and the floorboard on the left side of the bike. Drain the primary, the plug is on the bottom of the primary case near the rear end. Remove the outer primary cover. Bend the lock tab and remove the bolt holding the starter jackshaft in. Remove the jack shaft. Sometimes you must slide the clutch assembly out a bit to get the jackshaft out. To do this, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the circlip and remove the clutch release adjuster. There will be a large nut inside the clutch assembly. Take the nut loose, left handed threads on it. Now, slide the clutch assembly out far enough to get the jack shaft out. The “connector” will probably come out with it. Make sure you mark it as to which way it goes back in. The chamfered end goes in towards the starter.
Now move to the other side of the bike. Take the large cable off the stud on the starter and unplug the single green wire. There are two 5/16” hex head bolts that hold the starter onto the inner primary. Remove these two bolts. You may have to remove quite a bit of stuff to gain access to the starter in order to get it out. Things such as the exhaust pipes, maybe the horn, and no telling how much other stuff. Since every year and every model is slightly different in this respect, you’ll have to play that by ear.
But, before you do this work. Why do you think you need to remove the starter? It may be something more simple than the starter. These things ain’t cheap either. Drop me a line at [email protected]