Checking my valve clearances I found my rhs inlet was 0.22mm which is 0.07 above tolerance as stated in manual. Will it tighten as the valve seat wears or should I get shimmed? All others were in tolerence Please help cheers

The valve clearance specification for a Volvo FL10 truck depends on the specific engine model and year of manufacture. Generally, the valve clearance for the FL10 truck with a Volvo D10 engine should be checked and adjusted as follows: Remove the valve cover: Remove the valve cover to access the valves. Rotate the engine: Rotate the engine to the top dead center (TDC) position for the cylinder you want to adjust. Check the valve clearance: Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker arm. The specification for the valve clearance should be listed in the engine service manual. Adjust the valve clearance: If the clearance is not within the specified range, adjust the clearance by loosening the lock nut on the rocker arm and turning the adjustment screw. Tighten the lock nut when the clearance is correct. Repeat for each cylinder: Repeat the above steps for each cylinder. Reinstall the valve cover: Once all the valve clearances have been checked and adjusted, reinstall the valve cover. It is recommended to refer to the engine service manual for specific instructions and specifications for your particular Volvo FL10 engine.

wont be the carb
if you are sure the carb and pipes ,linkages choke and float etc are correct

could be the inlet exhaust valve clearances
not sucking in the fuel to the combustion chamber

A good feeler gauge set and a basic set of sockets, wrenches, and a screw driver set will work for most engines. I hope this helps. Rod
Now first you check the clearance and record the clearances. If they are out you need to change the valve bucket (which comes in different sizes). This involves removing the camshaft to change the buckets and then reassemble and recheck the clearances. This is a big job and dealerships will often charge $1500 plus to do this job. I am going to post some info from a thread which will explain further. Many motorcycles are similar as well.

The general procedure for checking and adjusting the clearance based on having done this on bikes is;
Before removing old belt
Measure and record each intake and exhaust valve clearance using feelers gauges. Use the crank rotation sequence and measurement order listed in the manual, else you may get erroneous readings due to cam journal clearances and the valve springs pushing the cam around in the bearings. Some are not measured on the exact base of the cam (i.e suzuki)
Compare the readings to specification
If any are out of tol, calculate the difference between the reading and spec.
Remove the camshaft with the out of tolerance readings (usually both if one is out of tol).
Record the markings on the bottom of the buckets that are out of tolerance. (I usually like to measure these with a mike to verify markings and or determine if there is any measurable wear and adjust accordingly)
Refer to the list of available bucket sizes (from svc. manual or dealer parts counter)
Add or subtract the difference you calculated above to determine your new bucket size. (bikes typically tighten up so you end up going with a thinner shim, er bucket)
Order the buckets needed (sometimes you can swap them around between locations to minimize the qty needed to order).
Install new buckets in the proper locations.
Re-install cams, new belt, new tensioners, and new Idlers.
Repeat measurement process from above.
If measurements are in spec, you are done.
If not, repeat.

Last winter I checked the valve clearance on a 2001 Focus ZX3 with the 2.0L DOHC engine. It had about 85K on it. The clearances were all pretty close to nominal. I don't know the history on the car since new so they may have been adjusted at some time in its life. IIRC the interval for that car was 75K.

As I said above, bikes typically tighten up with this type of valve train. This is due to the valves seating deeper in the valve seats due to wear. This increases the installed height of the valve, decreasing the clearance to the cam. The rate of seat wear exceeds all other wear causing them to tighten.

Tight valves are worse than loose valves. Can eventually lead to low compression, and burnt valves.

If the wear of the cam, bucket, cam journal exceed that of the valve seat, the clearance will increase.

I don't know what the general trend on these engines are as far as tightening or loosening, but if they are like a bike, they will tighten.

I can tell you that on bikes if they are operated a significant amount of time near the red line, they will require more frequent adjustment compared to one operated more conservatively. A bike that is operated conservatively may not need any adjustment at the first inspection interval (not unusual for my Yamaha FZ1, 26,000 mile interval)

Sorry about being long winded, but I thought I would do a brain dump to help people understand the process.

I hope this helps. Rod

hi there,
this table will help you. I used to own one.. beautiful bikes easy to work on too!
Valves:
Valve clearance: Inlet 0.13 0.19 mm
Exhaust 0.18 0.24 mm
Valve head thickness: Inlet 0.5mm 0.25 mm
Exhaust 0.8mm 0.5mm
Valve stem bend 0.05 mm TIR
Valve stem diameter: Inlet 4.975 4.990 mm 4.96 mm
Exhaust 4.955 4.970 mm 4.94 mm
Valve guide inside diameter 5.000 5.01 2 mm 5.08 mm
Valve/valve guide clearance
(wobble method): Inlet 0.02 0.07 mm 0.18 mm
Exhaust 0.06 0.11 mm 0.21 mm
Valve seating surface:
Outside diameter: Inlet 30.8 31.0 mm
Exhaust 26.3 26.5 mm
Width 0.5 1.0 mm
Valve spring free length: Inner 35.5 mm 33.6 mm
Outer 40.5 mm 38.6 mm
Valve seat cutting angle 32 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees


Hope it helps.. Ken

Your valves are to tight. When hot, the tolerance is not allowing the valves to close completely.

Remove the crankshaft tappet cap at the front of the motor and the timing inspection cap on the top right side of the rear cover.
Take off your valve covers.
Rotate the motor clockwise and align the TL mark with the pulsar index mark. Check that all the valves are loose on the left cylinder. The left cylinder must be at T.D.C. top dead center on the compression stroke.
At this time you can adjust your cam chain tension if you are not out fitted with an automatic cam chain tensioner (the cx650 automatic cam chain tensioner will fit in the manual tension models). Loosen the hex stud above the timing inspection hole and re tighten, done.

VALVE CLEARANCE
IN: 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
EX: 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)

Adjust the valves on the left head first ("TL" mark). Loosen the lock nut, turn the screw until there is SLIGHT drag on the feeler gauge. It is very important that you do not over tighten the valves. The Rocker assembly floats on oil and will zero tolerance the valves all by itself. If you over tighten the valves it will push the rocker to one side and damage the rocker bearing/shaft. Hold the screw and tighten the lock nut . Recheck the valve clearances.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the "TR" mark on the rotor with the pulsar index mark. The right cylinder must be at T.D.C. at the compression stroke.Make sure all the valves are loose. Adjust the valves and recheck the tolerance after tightening.
Reassemble the motor.

Valve clearance ideal setting is 0.10mm however as ideal replacement size shims are not always available use tolerance 0.05 to 0.2mm inlet and exhaust Procedure remove tappet cover rotate motor to tdc compression (inlet valve lobe pointing to rear wheel and exaust lobe to front wheel) measure clearance if no clearance depress cam bucket hold down by wedging a screwdriver or suitable tool (allen key) between cam bucket and cam remove shim measure with micrometer an relace with a shim 0.15 thinner depress valve remove wedge and measure clearance (if any) repeat procedure 4 each cylinder if clearance to large replace shim with a thicker one till clearance is in spec

Check out the inlet tappet clearance as they could be to tight OR
A burnt out inlet valve seat having a slight burn trace or a Cracked seat OR the timing is out of wack by 1 or 2 mm.
Once you have check out the above and fixed the problem you will be riding high . Ron

Make sure the air filter is clean and not oil soaked. Also be sure there's nothing stored under the seat that can cover the inlet to the air filter box.
If the bike has been in storage for any length of time longer than about one year, then plan on having the carburetors completely cleaned out.
Other things to check are the basic state of tune; valve tappet clearances (.002" intake, and .003" exhaust), the ingition point gap (.016"), and the ignition timing.
Do a compression test. With the choke open (lever down, in the 'off' position) and the throttle held wide open, you should see cylinder compression of at least 140 psi. Anything lower that that will cause a poor idle and power loss. Insufficient valve tappet clearance in the most common cause of low compression.

Yes, exactly that.
If you have a gap of zero, and it should be 20 then that is correct.
Example, gap shpuld be 20, actual gap is 5, shims = 45, so 45-15(is 20-5=15)=30