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I don't think that model will ever have an oil leak, there is far less lubrication in the gears compared to the earlier models. You are going to have to remove the top cover & check all the connections for continuity. One of them may have come unplugged or be a bit loose. Remove the screw at the back holding the trim band on and then the 4 screws you can then see. Lift the cover off & check all the connections you can see. I vaguely remember there being a couple of wires plugged together towards the back that I once found to be the cause of no go.
Look at the shift solenoid or oil screen/filter. Oil bad need flush and new oil. Over heater clogged oil cooler. Burned tranny clutches. Start on the oil
The transmission must be shifted up from first to neutral. Sometimes neutral must be "hunted for". If you are operating the shift properly then there is a small spring under the cover where the lever is mounted that may be broken or out of place. Drain the oil before removing the cover.
There's a couple of things that could be going on here. One . and the most common is the clutch. If it's not adjusted correctly or worn out it will give you problems shifting. Make sure that the lever freeplay is less than the thickness of a quarter at the perch. if it is adjusted correctly at the lever then I would do a complete clutch adjustment from the bottom up. Fully collapse the cable at the adjuster, then adjust the lever on the top of the cover where it goes into the case. You should have only a little freeplay there. The actual adjustment depends on yr, model, etc. But the general adjustment is about the thickness of a quarter . Then re adjust the cable at the perch to the same freeplay. If you are still having a problem then the next step is the trans. At that point I would recommend getting a service manual and following the directions , or taking it to a shop to check it out. If you fell on the shifter side and bent the shift fork in the trans then you would have the same problem. But before you do that make sure the shifter is clear of the case and not actually hitting anything when you are actually shifting.
Is it your idle screw or air screw you have a idle and air screw Idle is on the left side with a lock nut on it your air is in the back on the same side the air screw is set at 2-1/2 round out(Screw it in way and back it out )
what oil is leak tran. or engine and where? Your engine will not run good with air screw not set.
this is a very common problem with ford trucks. the screw is gold in color and uses a torx? simply apply a bit of loc-tite and screw it back in. it goes on the bracket that attaches the shift lever to your shift cable. put the seat all the way back and look straight up next to your brake pedal you will see what im talking about. good luck!
The chain sprocket has a black seal and the shift shaft has one also. I am guessing the bad seal is on the shifter shaft. This is not good. This means a lot of pressure was put on the shaft and it is likely the shaft will need to be replaced. That is not too big a task. What I fear is that a shift fork has been bent as well. If the bike does not shift properly, the entire engine has to come out of the frame for a complete tear-down just to get to the shift forks. This will cost a bundle. Sorry.
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The plug ( 3/4 wrench ) under the trans when your looking at the trans cover ( right side of the bike ) is the trans. If you drained that replace it with 24 oz. of either HD trans fluid or I prefer Golden Spectro 75/140 ( much better shifting on a Harley ( trust me you'll never go back to HD trans fluid ) the drain for your motor oils is on the same pan ( on the bottom ) but it's the plug facing the front of the bike. Looks just like the trans plug. Both use a 11105 o ring which you should replace everytime ( just for piece of mind as well as leaks ) you need 4 quarts of 20/59 HD oil. Hope it helps.
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