Oil trace comming out of clutch housing. The oil comes out from the top of nhe housing from the actuating arm hole.

I can only suggest that you have a rubber seal breaking down inside one of the cylinders possibly the master ,could be someone has topped the fluid up with the wrong fluid ,as for the squeak ?? could be the clutch arm as it has a pivot point type ball inside the bell housing and was it greased when fitting the new clutch ,tut tut i was taught to oil and grease everything if moved oil it and lo betide me if i missed a grease nipple .

The slave cylinder will be mounted on the bell housing and will push on an arm that comes out of the housing. It will have a bleed nipple (same type as on the brakes) at the end of the cylinder near the rubber hose attached to the cylinder .. (This is relevant if the clutch is not cable actuated). Regardless of wether it is 2WD --4WD or how many drives it has the clutch slave cylinder is attached to the bell housing and pushes on the clutch throw out arm in the bell housing. The bell housing is that section between the rear of the engine and the front of the gear box and houses the clutch assembly

I believe the arm is on top of the case on the left hand side attached to a shaft that goes into the case. It also may have a bolt in the side of the case below the arm that has a machined shoulder on it to retain the shaft from pulling out. If it does, remove it.If this is the way it's set up, it actuates the clutch thru a rod that goes all the way across the motor inside the hollow shaft that the clutch is mounted on. I don't have specific experience to the 250 KX, but I've been in the little ones and that's the way they're set up. So here's what you do-
Drain the gear oil and remove the round clutch cover on the right side of the bike. Remove the 5 or 6 washered bolts and the springs from the clutch pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and you'll see the clutch lifter-it's a short rod with a flat bearing on it located in the middle of the clutch shaft. Remove it and using a small magnet tool go inside the hollow shaft and retrieve the actuating rod. There may be a ball bearing with it as well, although I don't think there is in that bike. Anyway, don't lose it if it has one and pay attention to which end of the shaft goes to the clutch arm. You can now replace the arm. When your putting it back together, rotate the arm with your fingers and make sure the lifter is moving up and down before you put the pressure plate and springs back in. Good luck!

Start by removing the bar and chain and start the saw with a full tank of fresh Stihl bar oil.
If you are or have used a low grade oil or used oil you may have worn the oiler out.
Watch for oil to come out of the oil port.
If it does at a steady rate of about 10-21cc per min at 13,000 rpm or about 1/2 oz. per min then the bar is clogged with saw dust and needs to be cleaned.

If oil does not come out of the hole you will need to trace back the problem. the oiler is under the clutch. To remove the clutch remove the c clip that holds clutch drum ,washer and bearing remove those comonents and you are to the clutch. the clutch comes off reverse threads (right to loosen)
The problem is that the engine wants to turn, so remove the spark plug and put something soft in the sparkplug hole like 2 ft of starter rope. the clutch will come off and you will be able to see the oiler gears and hoses. worst case you will need a new oiler which is held on with a few t-27 screws.
Again I stress the point of good oil.
find parts at a local dealer like www.arcolawn.com

joe

Pull the clutch lever and block the actuator arm so that it cannot release (the one on the transmission, not the handlebars).

As you let off the lever, you can fish a small screwdriver in there to get the zinc ball out of the lever. You have to align the adjusters on the lever so that you can remove the cable. The adjusters stay in the lever.

Once you've done that part, just follow the cable back to the clutch actuator arm, and remove the cable and zinc lug through the hole in the arm.

Check that your clutch fluid reservoir has plenty of fluid and that there are no leaks in the system or from the bottom of the bell housing. If this OK then the clutch release arm and clutch plate will need to be checked. The release arm sits on a pivot on the inside of the bell housing and my guess is that the pivot has worn a hole through the release arm.

No idea what type of bike you have however, is the clutch lever pulling the cable against any tension, if no, it may just be the cable. Follow cable to engine and see if it actuates the clutch actuating arm or spindle. If lever operates okay and actuates clutch actuating arm, returning when released, your problem lies within. Warm engine and drain oil, remove clutch cover (careful of gasket and dowels) and inspect function of actuating arm against clutch thrust rod. If this is okay, your clutch basket may be undone on the spline, or the idler cog that drives the clutch basket is faulty.
More info on model required for any further diagnosis.
Cheers.

I will attempt to walk you through the belt change on your Riccar 8955 upright vacuum cleaner. I have taken pictures for you for each step to ensure that it's done properly. What you'll need to have handy for this repair;

- Phillips Head Screw Driver
- Riccar 4000 / 8000 Series Belt
- Riccar 8000 Series Roller Brush With Clutch Assembly (only if the brushes have worn down, not necessary if brushes are still long)

Step 1: Make sure the vacuum cleaner is unpluged, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so the bottom plate is upwards. It's easiest to do on a work bench or counter top.



Step 2: Unsrew the two metal screws on the metal bottom plate with your Phillips head screw driver, and remove the bottom plate from the vacuum cleaner so the belt is completely exposed with the roller brush.

Step 3: Remove the belt guard that sits to the left of the roller brush, and is a metal part that protects any dirt & debris from going over to the belt. Here's a picture of that part being removed;



Step 4: Remove the Rug / Floor actuator arm from the clutch on the right hand side of the roller brush. Simply pull the metal actuator arm to the left of the brush and out of the circle that it sits in. Here's a picture of that;



Step 5: Once you have removed the actuator arm for the clutch, as well as the belt guard, lift staight up on the roller brush and remove the roller brush from the vacuum cleaner:



Step 6: Once you have removed the roller brush, and the old belt from the vacuum cleaner, take one new belt and wrap it around the metal pin in the back of vacuum cleaners agitator housing. Here's a picture of where that pin is located with the belt wrapped around it;



Step 7: Once you have the belt wrapped around the metal pin (this is the shaft to the motor that actually spins the belt), but the other end of the belt through your new roller brush;



Step 8: There is a specific way that the roller brush has to be inserted. If the roller brush is not put in properly, this can cause all sorts of problems including the brush not spinning, and continously having to replace belts. You can see on the end cap of the roller brush (the right side where the belt rides) that there is two little teeth that protrude out of the end cap as well as an indentation on the opposite side;



Step 9: With the roller brush inserted through the belt, posistion the two teeth facing downwards. You can see in the vacuum cleaner where the roller brush sits, a little groove down inside of the housing. These two teeth need to straddle that groove. Also make sure that the little ring, or circle that the clutch actuator arm sits into, is facing upwards completely. It should be directly on top of the two teeth. Stretch the belt using the roller brush as leverage down into the agitator housing of the vacuum cleaner, making sure that the two teeth are facing downwards straddling the little groove. After the brush is back into the vacuum cleaner, take the metal actuator arm from the rug / floor switch, and insert it back into the metal ring (or hole) on the roller brush;


Step 10: Replace the metal belt guard that rests to the left of the belt. You'll notice on the belt guard that there are two little 90 degree notches on both sides. These notches need to face towards the belt or to the right. Here's a picture of the belt guard being put back into place;





Step 11: After inserting the belt guard back into the vacuum, turn the vacuum cleaner over so the top of the agitator housing is facing you. Change the the rug / floor switch from bare floors to the carpet setting, and the turn the vacuum upside again so the brush and belt are exposed:



Step 12: With the vacuum set to the carpet setting, pull the belt forwards to ensure that the brush is spinning freely. If the belts do not spin freely, repeat steps 2-10.








Thank you

Chris Jones
GoVacuum

1. If it is maintaining a gear when you try to start it in gear = Pressure Plate is fine. Don't do this too much as it can blow the gear in the starter. Just do it momentarily to test it. If you start it in gear and the motor fails to turn you can be reassured your clutch is fine if you had no slipping issues before.
2. If pedal went down and stays down = Check fluid levels for the clutch master. This has a return spring in the master so it should return on its own even if it has sprung a leak.
3. If fluid level is up = Linkage has possibly come off or actuator has come off at the fulcrum in the bell housing.

If this has come apart at the actuator arm this may or may not be accessible with the transmission installed for inspection. Look for an exploded view of this assembly and it will give you a better idea of what is happening. If it has come lose at the actuator fulcrum arm the transmission will have to be removed to service the failed part. The actuator arm or failed master is consistent with your hard shifting issues prior to failure.

The throw out bearing arm was on the outside of the clutch actuator arm. The throw out bearing arm should go into the clutch actuator arm with a bolt going into the clutch actuator arm through the throw out bearing arm. I used some blue locktite to make sure the bolt didn't come out again. See pic below.