How much fork oil right side - 1998 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

Buy a clymer or haynes manual

If I have found the right vivavity model, then yes.
they regularly get rusy, need freeing, and refilling with oil.
See here.
http://www.scooternations.com/showthread.php?195-Freeing-USD-%28Up-Side-Down%29-forks

you need fork oil

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

Not brake fluid or Hydraulic oil ( oil weight is the issue)
Drain forks ( bottom nipple) , remove top bold , be careful it is pressurized by spring . Use the right tool otherwise will damage bolt and your face.

Front forks should be sealed properly, fork seal should be intact, no water or brake fluid in them. Right amount of fork fluid is imperative along with oil weight specification ( check manual and appropriate oil weight for your bike), wrong oil and amount can otherwise damage your forks.

Front Fork Oil cc (right leg):170
Front Fork Oil cc (left leg):170
Fork oil grade:10w
Valve Clearance Cold - Inlet:0.08
Valve Clearance Cold - Exhaust:0.08
Engine Oil Grade SAE:10w/30
Engine Oil Classification API:sg
Engine Oil quantity with filter (litres):0.9
Idle Speed (rpm):1400 - 1500
Spark Plugs Gap (mm):0.8 - 0.9
2 Stroke Tank - Litres:No
Float Height:14 mm

The headline of your post seems to have it correct, you have a fork seal leaking. To replace the seal, you must remove the fork slider, the lower part of the fork tube to replace the seal and then refill the fork with the proper amount of the proper oil. Here's how you do it on a conventional front fork. This is not for an "inverted fork" where the top part is larger than the bottom.

Remove the front wheel, the caliper if it's on this side or you decide to do both sides. Loosen the pinch bolt on the back side of the lower triple tree. Remove the large nut on the top side of the upper triple tree. Caution: there is a large spring under the nut. Usually, if the bike is completely off the ground, the sping is almost fully extended but it will still have some pressure on it. Remove the spring and work the fork tube out of the triple trees. Turn the thing upside down and pour the oil out of it. Notice in the very bottom of the lower slider where the axle goes through, there is an 8mm hex head bolt. Using a brand new hex key, remove this bolt. A hex key socket on an air wrench helps to remove this bolt. It takes a "piloted key" but you can get it out with a regular one as long as it new and not rounded. Once the bolt is out, pull the top tube out of the lower tube. You'll see the oil seal in the top of the lower slider. Pull the seal out and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the entire assembly and install back into the triple trees. Add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. This is what is commonly called a "dry" fill since you took everything off and wiped it down. Then insert the spring tapered end first and put the large nut back on the top.

Then do the other side if you wish. Only do one side at the time. The remaining tube that is put together helps hold the tube you're working on extended.

Good Luck
Steve

well first of all,,,,,you dont just top up the fork oil,,,,
you drain it all out and refill it with clean fresh oil....
the reson for this is,,how much oil is left in the forks?
if you over fill them with oil you will burst the top fork sead?? bad news that is! so find the drain plug (a nut or screw) at the bottom of each fork leg and drain all the old oil out first,,, then remove the fork top plug and tip in the right amount of the right grade of oil into each leg,,,then let it stand for a fuw minuets,,for the air to come out,,,do up the fork top plug and push the forks down a fuw times before riding it to spred the oil around inside the forks,,,oh,,by the way,,,change the fork oil yearly,,,,,

are the forks leaking oil? is there air pressure in the forks? Start by draining the forks and putting in the correct ammount of the proper oil, and getting the air pressure right then see how she rides. Other things to check, front wheel bearings, worn triple tree bearings.

Front Fork Oil cc (right leg) : 485 Front Fork Oil cc (left leg) : 495

ZERO air pressure on these forks those air valves are to get rid of any built up pressure in the tubes. I also have a 1990 851 love it! What weight of oil are you running and how much are you putting in?,,