Fork sliders how to change out the sliders

Loosen the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug at the top of the fork tube, but do not remove it at this time. THEN loosen the pinch bolt (with lockwasher) in the lower fork bracket, but do not remove it. THEN spray glass cleaner like Windex on the fork tube above the rubber fork stop and after so lubricating the surfaces move the fork stop up the fork tube until it contacts the bottom of the upper fork bracket. THEN, while holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and slide the fork tube down and out of the upper fork bracket, the fork stop, the lower fork bracket, and the slider cover. THEN thread the fork cap bolt back into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while handling the removed fork assembly. THEN move the fork to your work bench area and place a suitable drain pan on the floor underneath your vise. NOW or later you can similarly remove the other fork tube assembly.

IT IS HANDY to have a HD-41177 FORK TUBE HOLDER or similar tool.

On the first fork remove the nuts, the lockwashers, the flat washer and the axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider. THEN clamp end of a fork holder tool in your vise in a horizontal position with the tightening fasteners facing toward you and with the fork cap bolt at the top clamp the fork tube in between the rubber pads on the inside of the tool and tighten the fasteners to securely hold the fork tube assembly. THEN remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and remove and throw away the quad ring seal. Thenslowly unthread the fork tube plug from the fork tube being AWARE that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure which requires you to have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. THEN remove the O-ring from fork tube plug and throw it away. THEN remove the fork spring from the fork tube and remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. THEN turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into the drain pan by slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times being aware that the damper valve, if it has one, may fall out of the inverted fork tube while you are draining it. THEN With the wear ring at the bottom, i.e. with the spring side up, slide the damper valve back into the fork tube when it has been fully drained.

THEN for further disassembly install the fork spring back into the fork tube place a shop rag on the floor, and turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of spring against the rag. Push down and compress the spring to prevent the damper tube from turning and then remove the6mm screw from end of fork slider with a strong short stroke impact wrench and 12 mm Allen socket adapter for best results. When the screw and washer are removed throw away the 6mm screw and copper crush washer. THEN remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if it has one) and the damper tube from fork tube. THEN remove the wear ring and the rebound spring from the damper tube and it has one, from the damper valve, if it has one. Then without expanding or stretching the retaining clip to avoid it becoming bent or distorted, remove it from the fork tube. THEN, using an appropriate pick tool, remove the retaining clip from between the fork slider and the fork tube and remove the fork tube from the fork slider. Use the fork tube as a slide hammerwith a moderate amount of force until the fork tube separates from the fork slider. THEN slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off of the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork oil seal and the slider bushing. THEN gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing, and remove it from the groove at the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork leg bushing. THEN remove the lower stop fromthe fork slider.

THEN thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts. And replace all parts that are bent, broken or otherwise obviously damaged. Inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug O-ring for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and replace whatever is necessary and/or prudent. THEN replace the retaining clip if bent or distorted and check the slider and fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing is damaged or worn THEN also check the fork tube and the slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace all parts as necessary and/or prudent. THEN set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure the runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace the fork if runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm). THEN inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion and replace the upper fork spring if the free length is less than 18.4 in. (467.3 mm) and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or otherwise whenever the upper fork spring requires replacement.
To reassemble the fork coat the fork leg bushing ID with clean fork oil and then expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only so far as required to it slip over the end and into the groove of the fork tube. THEN install a new wear ring in the groove at the top of the damper tube and install the rebound spring on the opposite end. Now, with the wear ring on the top side slide the damper tube into the fork tube, so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. Now install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube and put the fork slider back into your fork tube holder. THEN slide the fork tube into the fork slider. NEXT coat the slider bushing ID with clean fork oil and install the slider bushing down into the fork tube and then slide the slider spacer down the fork tube until it meets the slider bushing and then get your fork oil seal installer tool and it down the fork tube and drive the slider bushing and spacer into the bore of the fork slider and then remove the tool and THEN put some masking tape over the top edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation and then coat the new oil seal with new fork oil and install the seal with the garter spring facing into the fork tube and slide it down to the bore of the slider and the earlier installed spacer and then remove the masking tape and with your fork seal installation tool drive the seal down into the top of the slider until you can insert the retaining ring and then again remove the seal driver tool and install the retainer ring into its slider groove. NOW slide the fork spring into the tube and remove the fork assembly from your fork tube holder and with a shop towel or rag on the floor turn the assembly upside down and press the spring against the shop towel or rag and install a new 6mm screw with a new copper crush washer through hole at bottom of fork slider and start to screw it into the end of the damper tube. Continue to compress the spring into the assembly to stop the damper tube from turning and tighten the 6mm screw to 132-216 in-lbs (14.9-24.4 Nm). After this remove the fork spring from the fork tube and again clamp the fork slider (NOT THE FORK TUBE) into your fork holder tool with the fork tube on the top side and if it was previously removed install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider and tighten it to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

THEN refill with the correct amount of fork oil. It is very important for the correct and safe operation of the bike that the CORRECT amount of oil be installed. FOLLOW the correct procedures for doing this.

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

This type of R/R is what I call a straight monkey see...monkey do repair. Undo the drain screw on each fork and drain oil. The bike must be high enough off the ground to slide the sliders off unimpeded. From there let pressure off via the schrader valves on the forks, if so equipped. Remove wheel and unbolt anything attached to sliders because these must be taken to the bench. At the bottom of each slider, remove bolt and slide the slider off fork tube. Take slider to bench and remove internal snap ring and carefully pry the old seals out without damaging anything. Grease the new seals and carefully tap seal into slider evenly. A deep well socket can be used to tap it all the way in. From there it's reverse procedure. Add fork oil to specs.

Without knowing what year and model bike you're working on, I'll have to be "general" in my explanation. To change the fork seals, you must either take the upper and lower fork tube assembly out of the triple trees or be able to lift the bike at least 12 inches off the floor. Once you havef drained the tube by removing the small screw in the trailing side of the slider and worked the fork oil out, taken the front wheel off, the front caliper(s) off and the fender or removed the forks from the triple trees, look at the bottom end of the slider (lower fork). You'll see a special socket head bolt in a recess under there. It takes a 6mm allen wrench or hex key to remove the bolt. It is designed to take a special "piloted" key but you can get it out with a NEW hex key. I prefer one of the hex key sockets that will fit onto an air wrench. It works a lot better. Take the bolt out and the slider comes off the bottom end of the upper tube. Take the rubber boot off the slider, the retainer ring and pry the seal out.

Good Luck
Steve

There are two ways to change out the lower sliders on your bike. One, remove the entire fork tube from the steering head and the other, simply remove and replace the lower slider. There really isn't that much difference and I prefer to remove the entire fork tube myself.

First you'll have to get your bike off the gound and stable. Then remove the front wheel, the front brake and the front fender. Remove the windshield, light bar, and nachelle.

Once you get everything out of the way, here's where you can go two different routes. In one, you loosen the clamp bolt at the lower triple tree and remove the top cap of the fork. Spray a bit of penetrating oil around the fork tube in the lower tree and start working the tube out. Once the tube is out, remove the top plug and spring. Turn the fork tube upside down and empty the oil out of it and remove the spring. Look at the spring. It's tapered on one end, make sure you put this end in first when you reassemble the tube. With the fork tube upside down, look at the bottom end of the slider where the axle goes through. You'll see a single 8mm bolt. Remove this bolt and the slider will come off.

In the other method, you do it the same way except you don't remove the fork tube from the triple. You remove the top cap and the tube plug. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil out of the fork tube. Remove the screw and remove the lower slider. It is quite a bit messier as all the oil is not out of the slider when you take it off.

When you reassemble, make sure you use the proper quantity of oil in each leg. You will see a "wet" and "dry" measurement. Use the "dry" measurement since you disassembled the fork. I do not have the quantity of oil you should use for your model. A dealer should be able to tell you.

Good Luck
Steve

That depends on where it's leaking. If it's leaking down at the axle, You can lift the bike off the ground, remove the front wheel. There's a bolt in the very bottom of the tube. Take the bolt out and slide the "slider" off the upper tube. While you have it off, replace the seal at the top of the "slider". This will fix any leak at the top of the slider. Clean the lower slider with clean mineral spirits and allow it to dry. Then, put a little bit of oil on the seal and a dab of clear RTV in the area where the copper washer goes and slide the slider back up on the tube. Put the bolt in and tighten it up. Replace the front wheel. Now, add the appropiate amount of fork oil for a "dry" refill. If you call the dealer, they should tell you how much oil goes in there. My manuals are not up to date for your model. Mine only shows for 1994 and Harley may have changed the fork tubes since then. Remember the higher viscosity of the oil, the stiffer the front suspension. The dealer will also tell you what oil came in the front forks from the factory.

Good Luck
Steve

There should be a drain plug on the trailing side of the slider. Some have cross point screwdriver heads on the plug others have allen or hex head plugs. Remove the plug and work the forks up and down. If all fails, you can remove the entire tube and turn it upside down.

Either the seals were not installed correctly or your tubes and sliders are excessively worn. Not changing the fork oil at recommended intervals will cause excessive wear. Overfilling the forks will cause leaks too.