How do i tighten the inner primary chaincase on a Triumph T110

Remove the rear wheel and then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly and then remove the primary chaincase housing. Support the bike under the rear fork and engine and then remove the pivot shaft and the spacer THEN slip the belt off the transmission sprocket and then install a new drive belt over the transmission sprocket and proceed to reinstall the pivot shaft and spacer after which you can remove the support holding the engine and rear fork and install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain assembly and the primary chaincase cover and fill the primary chaincase with lubricant up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Install the rear wheel and adjust the belt to the proper deflection dimension and confirm that the rear wheel is properly aligned side to side.

Remove the rear wheel and then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly and then remove the primary chaincase housing. Support the bike under the rear fork and engine and then remove the pivot shaft and the spacer THEN slip the belt off the transmission sprocket and then install a new drive belt over the transmission sprocket and proceed to reinstall the pivot shaft and spacer after which you can remove the support holding the engine and rear fork and install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain assembly and the primary chaincase cover and fill the primary chaincase with lubricant up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Install the rear wheel and adjust the belt to the proper deflection dimension and confirm tat the rear wheel is properly aligned side to side.

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Is it a softail????



To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Instructions

1. Replacing the Alternator
   • 1 Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
     
   • 2 Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
     
   • 3 Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
     
   • 4 Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
     
   • 5 Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.
     

Inner chaincase has sprungfork plate rivited on, between which you should have a large plain washer and felt washer that are in situ before inner case is located over GB mainshft. if you have the projecting brass sleeve (bearing) this will fit inside felt/washer on assembly. Its not critical and you wont lose a lot of oil even if you dont use the above.

Spray it off at the car wash to remove all the oil , then spray Right Guard (Yes, that Right Guard) on the area of the leak. It will show up, but you may not be able to see exactly where. There are a couple spots where it can leak. The jackshaft oil seal, as you said, transmission output shaft (clutch shaft) on the trans itself, the inner primary seal where the trans shaft runs thru, the engine sprocket shaft oil seal, inner primary O-ring, the bolts that hold the inner primary to the engine/trans, the primary chaincase gasket and the drain plug. Hopefully when you get it apart, you will see which seal is leaking. If not, replace them all. Still want to fix the leak? LOL

OK ... I dont know what kinda kit u have - But I'll answer your question . As u know - there is an inner and outer primary. U can of course remove the outer primary without removing the clutch basket. But if u need to remove the entire primary, you'll have to remove the primary chain and the clutch, as well as the compensating sprocket, and that is a huge job.... I have installed many forward controls and have never had to even open the primary ... Usually, all u need to do is change out the shift rod.... I wouldnt attempt this without a shop manual - good luck