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Starter problem on my 01 1100 classic. first my 2 yr old battery would not hold a charge,but after i put the charger on it, it would start and run but not hold the charge overnite. now my starter doesnt sound like it is engaging and is makin a whirring sound.any help???
Re: Starter problem on my 01 1100 classic. first my 2...
First you need to replace the battery with a new one. 2 years is about all you can expext from a battery that is not used every day. sounds like your starter motor is not engaging, this could be from low voltage. Try tapping the starter motor with something metal, gently with a small hammer, sometimes a stuck solonoid can cause this.
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THAT IS CALLED A DEAD STARTER OR NO CRANK . condition. period.
6 TO 10- CAUSES of dead starter.
WHAT WORDS AND GOALS (stages)
CRANKS (key to start/crank) or button start /stop pushed for start.
STARTS (loud cranking heard if engine is dead)_
AND RUNS (grins)
AND STAYS RUNNING, (bliss)
IN THAT ORDER ONLY, MY CAR PUSH STARTS SO GOES FROM PUSH TO RUNS,. JUST 2 STEPS(stick shift bliss this) M/Tbox.
when kid 15yo id park on a hill and do rolling starts. 3 speed manual box then./
turns over means zero, (turns = spins the starter spins and if lucky the engine crank shaft spins or turns and if lucky starts. turns never means runs. ever. it is called RUNNING.
some call running at idle others (old) say engine ticks over.
yes heard all the slang but do avoid TURNS. and OVER.()roger over and out)
I just fixed my neighbors, the hood knows i diagnose cars for free, retired me.
her car the battery reads, 10.7vDC (truth here is only discharged)
2020 Nissan.
head lamps bright, proves nothing here. at all (unless fully dead lamps)
the battery pushes 5 amps to head lamp but can not muster 100amps to the starter. so starter is dead or after 10 tries. tiny clicks heard under hood.
I see dash lamp dim a bit at crank attempts, a huge clue there.
causes. are: in order.
including lies the BCM dash lamp tells. (key IMMO failure lamp glows)
a huge lie there, 2020 car, and I know why the 10.7vdc battery causes most computers on board to lie or be dead.
(fast forward, only here the battery is dead. and no DTC ever stored, after cure.
PCM OBD2 jack we scan the under dash jack, shows comms dead, CAN_bus dead (her car)
and expected by me. (took 20min after my full charge the cars electronics to work again, ) NOTE THE DELAY.
now your causes all and in order
battery lugs, loose or rusty or both no battery ever lasted 17 years, so is on 2 or 3 battery now. or due for 3rd !!!!!
on the gals car above the tag top-o-bat reads 2020 see? I always look at tags.
battery lugs ok, and clean', battery not 7 years old or more.
battery voltage not 10v but 12.6vdc , rested 1hr. is it? if not charge it.we ran a 75ft extension from her house to street to charge it. with my charger.
or drag the battery to the work bench and charge it. or to any shop,say test it. this battery in hand,.. (way cheaper than any tow truck) or jump start it.
my load bank test shows hard failure, even no load, and BAD shows on dial loaded, but the battery in here car is good, and fails this test.
next up, charged, the IMMO key lamp must not show failing key,we tried both. keys.
starter relay bad.
PRNDL fails at start in Park and Reverse both, or just park. bingo SOLVED
the starter is bad, even hot wired it fails keys not near car.
simple failures here, just a starter not the 50causes of engine failure.
I only jumper cable start cars if in some kind of panic (stalled in snow bank)?
I charge the battery first with the tool called a battery charger.
this is more safe for electronics old relic chargers can push 20vdc and never is that safe for modern cars(computers max).
my charger is a smart charger.
this one is real good, 1hr charge and it is 90% charged, from 10.7v.
I would start by replacing the charger. If it is completely dead you will need to use a wall charger to charge it. If that doesn't help then it may be the battery. You can check out iFixIt to see if they have a replacement battery for your model.
charger is no good or is not the correct charger for that chair suggestion have a dealer tech replace a original charger in chair,it should have a 3 yr warranty anyways
Try charging the battery on a bench top charger, preferably a maintenance charger those usually tell you if your battery is able to charge or not. Or take it to your local auto-zone and have them check it it might be old and unable to hold charge. Check to see if you have a dry cell if so your battery is most likely shot. Sometimes jumping these small batteries, if done the wrong way can ruin them, always best to charge them slowly with bench charger now a days they are very inexpensive check one out if you go to auto-zone. If battery checks out then you need to check your mower units charging system. Good Luck...
I think you need a battery it is not holding a charge Also take voltmeter when you jump it When running put voltmeter on battery and see how many volts is charging while running It shoud be 13,50 GOOD LUCK MOPAR KENNY
While running use a vom should read at bat 13.7 or so,, when off,,, bat should read 12.6 if bat 4 years old replace or if not kept on smart charger w/ not in use for several days at a stretch replace,, get more help at harleytalking.com good luck..
Unless it's the starter its self (Which I think is pretty unlikely) I would STILL go for it being the battery. Has it EVER started on the new battery? Or is it possible that the new battery was supplied flat and requires charging before use (Some do come this way). Classic flat battery signs are not just the click, but as you hold the starter button down, the click becomes a buzz as the solenoid repeatedly engages and disengages as the battery power fails. This will be accompanied by a the headlight dimming to the point of almost going out.
My first simple step would be to take off the right hand side panel so you can get to the battery and take a set of jump leads to it from your car. I'll predict that it will start this way, demonstrating that your new battery is flat.
If this is the case, you will have proved it. Now you then have the choice of riding the bike around for an hour to get the battery up to closer to full charge, or putting it on a charger (CAREFUL of the output from the charger! some car battery chargers will cook a bike battery and wreck it).
If the jump start doesn't work, then you know you have ruled the battery out as the culprit, or at least ruled it out as the ONLY cluprit. It's now time to find out if the solenoid is putting power to the starter by testing it with a volt meter.
Mark Batteries your charger is putting our enuf 13.15 volts for each battery so after charging all night you should be reading about 13 volts on each. If your batts are only 12 volts after all night charge then batteries are weak Hope this helps
At 55 amps you could charge the batteries on the space shuttle. A 2 amp charger is plenty. You cooked the three year old battery so a new one will be needed. Get the new battery then worry about the fuses only if the bike is still dead. The fuses are under the battery side cover if I recall correctly. Look under the seat if not by the battery.
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