Oil was gushing out the overflow pipe connected to the top of the engine that is routed to the back of the bike towards the rear wheel. Amature rider that kept it in 1st gear the whole time.What could be the problem? It is a Kazuma Viper 110. The bike isn't listed below, therefore I have chosen randomly.

Typically the starter motor is on the passenger side of a rear wheel drive vehicle and on the back side of a front wheel drive vehicle. It is possible to trace the route of the large red cable from the positive terminal of the battery. It is connected to the starter relay which is typically attached to the top of the starter motor.

Here's S&S's manual for the Shorty Carbs (both E & G):

http://www.sscycle.com/files/7913/7033/9802/51-1012_carb_e__g_series_shorty_carburetors_installation.pdf

On page "10", it states, "Slip fuel overflow hose onto fitting on carb bowl and neatly route behind pushrod tubes. On a big twin model, hose should go toward back
of engine. On a Harley-Davidson Sportster model, hose should go toward front of engine. Exit end of overflow hose must extend down
below engine and away from exhaust pipes."

This is the only "vent" hose (actually, a fuel overflow hose) that I know of.

Hi, Anonymous if you are experiencing excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather or air filter please drain all engine oil and replace half of the same oil that comes out. Many riders are overfilling their oil system because they do not know how to properly read their oil site glass or dipstick. The following procedure works on nearly all 4 stroke engines but to be on the safe side you should refer to your owners manual. Use your center stand if you have one.
1. Bring the engine up to operating temperature or let idle for 5 minutes.
2. Turn off your engine and let it sit for 2 minutes, this will allow the oil from the top end to drain to the bottom.
3. Hold your bike straight up or on the center stand and wait 2 minutes for the oil in the bottom of the engine to be level in the sight glass or on the dipstick.
4. Your oil level should be between the top full mark and the bottom add mark.
5. Never overfill your oil system it will cause problems:
a. oil leaking out of exhaust pipes.
b. oil leaking out of breather pipe/hose.
c. oil carryover into the air cleaner.
6. Your oil site glass must "NEVER" be completely full or empty drain or add oil as necessary.
7. Your oil dipstick must "NEVER" be over the full mark and should never be below the add mark drain or add oil as needed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
cb200 oil out of breather tube
Oil leaking from overflow tube
http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/attachments/12583929-Honda_Cb200_Cl200_Workshop_Service_Repair_Manual_Download.pdf
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/attachments/CL200_Owners_Manual.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Yes there is a check valve but it's in the oil pump. This is a problem with the pre-2000 Softails. The oil tank is mounted higher in the frame than the oil pump on the engine. When the bike is allowed to sit for an extended period of time, the oil seeps past the check valve ball in the oil pump and settles in the engine cases. We call this "oil sumping". When the engine is restarted, the oil pump scavenger gears simply cannot pump the excess oil back to the oil tank fast enough and it is blown out of the crankcase vent tube. Since the EPA requires that vented crankcase pressure be cycled through the engine to be burned, the crankcase vent tube is connected to the backside of the carburetor backing plate. There are baffles in the tube but they only work for oil mist. The results is that your air filter gets filled with oil when you restart the engine after a lenghty downtime. Most riders will disconnect the tube from the backside of the backing plate and plug the hole in the backing plate. Then they install a simple hose about six inches long or so to the nipple that comes out of the engine cases and run it back towards the rear of bike underneath it. Some guys will put a small crankcase breather on the end of the hose as well. This way, the oil will go on the ground and you can clean it up. I usually slide a shallow pan under the bike before restarting one that has sat for a while. Avoid "topping off the oil tank" before restarting a bike that has sat for a while. Check the oil level and as long as the oil is visible on the dipstick, restart the engine and check the oil level when the engine reaches operating temperature. Harley improved on this problem in 1993 when they went to the "head breathers" where the crankcase vents are located in the cylinder heads.

Good Luck
Steve

G'day.
We don't get your bike here in Australia but if the pipes your talking about are clear or semi-clear then they will be overflow pipes in case the bike falls over.- these are often the vent for the fuel bowl too.
Then they don't connect to anything.
You usually rout them down & to the back of the carby & they slot down the back of the engine-commonly between the engine & swingarm pivot.

I hope this helps.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

There are indeed two drains under the bike. One is for the engine oil and one is for the transmission lubricant. Since your bike is basically a Softail, the one your looking for is the one on the frame back towards the rear tire under the pipes. Follow the pipe upwards and see if it goes to the oil tank. This will verify that you have the correct drain. Just loosen the drain plug and let a drop or two of oil come out. It should be black. If it's clear and clean looking, it may be your transmission lube but I'm sure if your bike is a Softail model, this is the drain you're looking for.

Good Luck
steve

The easiest way to check rear wheel alignment on a Dyna is by the two little "witness marks" on the rear swing arm. These two marks are just forward of the axle. One on each side of the swingarm. Measure from the mark back to the center of the axle on each side. The distance should be the same with the proper final drive belt tension.

As for the rear wheel being "centered" with the frame, the only way to check that is to take the fuel tank and rear fender off, stretch a string from the center of the steering head along the frame on back across the rear wheel. Simply looking at the way the wheel is positioned in the swingarm may be deceptive. The swingarm may not be symetrical due to the necessity to clear the final drive pulley and such. The engine alignment shouldn't have anything to do with the rear wheel alignment.

For something as serious as wheel alignment within the frame, I'd take the bike to a dealer somewhere and have them check it out. On some bikes, there is supposed to be an offset betweent he front wheel and the rear wheel. Use a piece of straight piece of square aluminum tubing to check wheel alignment.

I believe you bike is an FXSB. The Dyna Low Rider didn't come out until 1993 best as I can remember. The difference is the rubber engine mounts. The FXR low rider had the small rubber front mount and the Dyna low rider has the large front engine mount.

On either bike, the wheels were not the same size front and back. Seems like the rear wheel was an 16" and the front was a 19". A phone call to your local Dealer will get you the answer. Or, you could check out http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/harley-davidson_fxsb_1340_low_rider_1985.php

you should have 2 vac pipes which go to 2 mounts under the petrol tank the other 4 should go down the back of the airbox towards the swingarm.

iya if its the pipe im thinkin you dnt connect it mate its for your overflow