CLUTCH KEEPS SLIPPING, DESPITE LOOSENING CABLE,adjusting centre hex drive screw correctly and tightening nut. Then ADJUSTING CLUTCH CABLE SO TIGHT SO THAT I CAN SELECT GEARS. I cannot select gears when i leave 1/4 of an inch free play in clutch leaver. What is wrong with the bike, it is Brand New and has a 127 Ultima engine in it.It feels as though the clutch is not clearing enough to change gears as the bike changes gears easily when the bike is not running. Neutral CANNOT be selected when the bike is running but is easy to select when the bike is not running. If anybody has the correct answer, and it works, i will send you $50 for your trouble. thanks Nick Western Australia

Greetings, I read your question and I think heavy-equipmentmanual.com can help you in this. Here's the site link - https://www.heavy-equipmentmanual.com/

I believe you mean the clutch adjustment screw located inside the derby cover in the center of the clutch. If so, here is how you do it. Slacken off all the way the clutch cable adjustment screw located half way down the clutch cable. Loosen the lock nut on the adjustment screw and turn anti-clockwise a few turns. Then slowly screw it back clockwise until you feel a resistance or in other words it gets a bit tight. Slacken off a quarter turn and tighten up the lock nut making sure it does not turn while tighten it. If you get this wrong you will end up with a slipping clutch and burn it out over time. You then adjust the cable adjuster until you have about 3/16 play in the clutch lever. Tighten the cable adjuster nuts.

Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam
nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12
Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with one half inch wrench, loosen the jam





nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12





Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and





Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12 Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Probably it means that your clutch is adjusted too tight but would need to have more information, a better description of what you mean when you infer that it does not go into gear when warmed up. Does it just not go in or does it grind or what does it do. If the bike is not just old which does not have to mean anything by itself, but it has lots of mileage on it then there could be many more things to look at than just clutch adjustment but start there.



To adjust the clutch on a Sportster slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. YOU WILL FIND THAT IT IS A LEFT HAND THREAD so it will tighten and loosen opposite to a normal right hand thread). THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12 Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

In the middle of the clutch cable under a rubber boot is the adjustment for the cable. Slide this down to access the adjuster. This may take a little effort to do. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to hold the adjuster and a 9/16 to loosen the lock nut. Turn the lock nut and adjuster all the way to the top. Remove the retaining ring on the underside of hand control and remove pin. Remove clutch lever. Slide out the pin holding the clutch cable in place. Remove derby cover, the large round cover where the cable enters buy removing the four hex screws. Remove spring with attached hex lock plate. Use a flat head screw driver to turn adjusting screw clockwise to release ramp and coupling mechanism. it should move forward and make the cable slack enough to remove it. Unscrew nut from adjusting screw, remove the cable end from small slotted end of coupler. Unscrew the cable from primary cover.

Screw the new cable in to the cover, reconnect cable to the coupler. Leave derby cover off and re-install everything, except spring and hex plate. Turn the clutch adjusting screw counter-clockwise until resistance is felt, then back-off 1/4 turn. Re-install spring and hex plate, you may have to wiggle the hex nut a bit to get everything to line up. Replace the derby cover. Turn adjuster on the cable down until there is about 1/16 free play at clutch handle. Tighten the adjuster lock nut. Slide the protective boot back over the cable adjuster. I recommend using zip ties to seal the boot. Place a zip tie at the bottom of the boot first. Then using some WD-40, insert the straw a good bit in to the top of the boot. Spray slowly until foam starts coming out the top. Seal the top of the boot with a zip tie. This will keep the adjuster from rusting. That's it your done.

Usually caused by the clutch being out of adjustment. Start by loosening the clutch cable at the midway adjuster. remove the derby cover, (over clutch), which will expose the clutch adjusting screw and nut. Loosen the nut, turn the screw in until you feel resistance, no slack in screw, then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 turn, then tighten the lock nut. Pull the clutch lever a few times to seat the clutch release mechanism. Adjust the cable at the midway adjuster, holding the cable tight away from the lever. Adjust until there is 1/16" to 1/8" free play between clutch lever mount and the end of the cable housing. Lock the adjuster with the jamb nut and slide the rubber boot back over the midway adjuster.

hopefully you soaked your clutch plates in oil before installing them! If so adjustment is performed by loosening the jam nut on your clutch cable and running in the adjuster until you have enough slack to pull the clutch lever to the grip without any resistance. pull your derby cover off your primary cover and in the center of the clutch assembly you will see a threaded hex screw and a jam nut. loosen this jam nut enough to run the hex bolt in. tighten this hex bolt untill it just hits resistance and then back it off one half turn. Tighten the jam nut. reinstall the derby cover and adjust the clutch cable back out untill there is one sixteenth inch slack in it. Operate the clutch lever several times to reset the ramps then ride