Bike stalled, tried to re-start and just clicking noises, found a couple wires into relays broken, fixed those now the relays just click when i try and start it and it wont kick-start!

On the below link clicking turned out to be a bad solenoid he could crank the bike by jumping across the two threaded bolts for battery cable on solenoid.
Bike just clicks when i try to start it (gstwins.com)


**Solved!** Starter relay problem! Works for most bikes/vehicles! - YouTube
Motorcycle Won't Start : Starter System Diagnosis - YouTube

The clicking noise, is the engine cranking to make the noise, or is it a start relay clicking when you press start? You may have a major internal engine part failure. With the bike on the center stand and the tranny in highest gear, spark plugs out, try to rotate the engine by the rear wheel. if it rotates a bit forward and backward, you have broken something in the engine. Ouch!

try cleaning the start button inside the housing as weather gets in and could be a dirty contact ! check the earth contacts around the engine also ! are the wires to the solinoid in good condition , battery wires also ?

Almost sounds like a bad starter relay, or a bad starter solenoid.

Seems likely that a wire or connector is loose or broken or corroded, or a fuse has blown (or possibly several). Could also be a faulty clutch interlock switch or powertrain control module or gear position switch or starter relay or keyswitch or starter solenoid/motor.

Use information from service manuals, on-line forums, circuit diagrams etc. to help you identify what wires and components to check, it will usually be a lot quicker and easier than randomly checking every circuit. Search for things like "1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager starter relay" and "1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager fuses" and "1999 plymouth grand voyager repair manual pdf".

If you have a test light or meter you can check for power into and out of the fuses, relays, keyswitch, etc. Follow the faulty circuit through to see where the power stops. If you're not sure how to do this find someone who does and ask them to help you. Concentrate on the circuit you are trying to fix (e.g. starter circuit). Use the wiring diagram for your exact model. If the correct wire colours are marked it can help a lot with identifying the wires you want to check.
Note that wires can sometimes change colours when they go through a connector.

Or just try the following:

If you can, find the relay that clicks when the key is turned. Relays can be unplugged so you can unplug them one at a time to see if clicking stops. Identify what the relay does
Check particularly if the starter relay (in relay box near battery?) clicks when the key is turned to start. If it does then the fault is after that (in the relay contacts or the starter solenoid/motor or the connecting wire).

**** Disconnect the battery earth (-) while fixing wires **** to avoid shorts.

Check for blown fuses, particularly the starter fuse (under the dash). Check for loose or corroded fuse connections.There are also some bigger fuses and some relays near the battery that should be checked.
Note: If a fuse has blown it is quite likely that there is a reason, e.g. something may have shorted out when bumped. Fuses rarely blow for no reason. If there is an exposed wire that hasn't been found, it's worth finding before it touches anything when you least need it.
What is a small problem at this stage could potentially turn into a much more expensive one (sparks, smoke, lots of money).
Don't try a bigger fuse !

Check for broken wires.
A cleanly broken wire should be easy to find.
It's a bit more tricky if a break is hidden inside the chewed insulation. If the wire bends easily at a spot it could be broken inside.
Even trickier if a wire has broken off at a join. If you look carefully enough you can usually see where a wire has broken from.
Don't guess if you can't be sure where a wire goes.
Joining the wrong things together leads to zero fun so be careful.

Mouse wee is highly corrosive and can damage wires /connectors. Unplug and carefully inspect the metal surfaces of the connectors for signs of corrosion, black or burnt appearance, or tarnishing. Clean or repair any damage.
All connections should be clean, tight and well insulated.

Good luck.

Even though you think the relay is OK, try replacing it - relay contacts wear is a common problem and is difficult to diagnose. You can also check the voltage at a couple of points when trying to start it with the ignition switch - for example, before and after the relay. If the voltage is OK at the relay signal line and the switched voltage at the starter is low, the relay is faulty. If the voltage drops at the signal line, the ignition switch is faulty. There may also be wiring problem, which will mean tracing the signal and switched lines to see is there is a poor connection at any connector in these lines.

I'm not too familiar with the later model bikes but if I were getting a clicking noise under the seat and the bike was not starting, I'd investigate the source of the noise. It's possible that it is a starter relay that engages the solenoid that is an integral part of the starter. Look at the starter from the right hand side of your bike. You'll see a single small wire that connects to the end of the starter just above the end plate of the solenoid. Disconnect this wire and connect a test light or volt meter to the wire. Turn on your ignition switch and press the start button. You should hear the click under the seat and see voltage at the end of that wire. If not, replace the relay, a plastic cube about an inch in dimension.

Good Luck
Steve

Are you getting a clicking noise at all? If not, I'd try the starter soleniod. (this is usually the problem - you can take the starter to an advanced auto and they can check it for you to be sure).

Otherwise it's the ignition (where you put your keys in). Sometimes these stop sending the 'start' signal.

The noise is the overload. The compressor is trying to start and because it cannot start the overload clicks when the circuit is broken to compressor. Yes the problem could be the relay. The relay should be beneath the cover where the wiring goes into compressor. It could also be the start capacitor that the relay uses to start the compressor. When the thermostat tells the compressor to start the relay momentarily come on with stored voltage to bump start the compressor. Once the compressor starts the relay opens to prevent the no longer stored voltage from going to compressor. In short we need to unplug the refrigerator and open back near compressor to view and remove the cover that the wires go into. Mark the wire connections and see if you can get one of your local refrigeration stores to check the capacitor and start relay. You can do all of these by purchasing a three in one start capacitor and relay designed for you refrigerators size. But before you do all of these things get back with me so we can test the compressors windings. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze