2000 750 ss have lites but no power to the starter selniod or fuel pump or spark each one tests out what may be problem? is it a relay maybe my ecu thanks dave

You can only make a manual circuit over the ignition to your Fuel pump .

If the vehicle is fitted with an immobiliser that could be the problem. Have you checked for a spark?

If an immobiliser is fitted the new engine ECU will have to be coded before it will work.

A wiring diagram is almost essential to diagnosing the problem. There is likely to be a relay controlling the supply to the fuel pump but what controls the relay? If the relay is controlled by the engine ECU there will be no supply until the immobiliser is disarmed.

If the vehicle was presented to me I would check for a spark and if a spark is present I would provide a temporary supply to the fuel pump to test if the engine starts, proving the fault is not immobiliser-related but a wiring or switching problem.

your problem Can be fuse /relay broken damaged corroded wire /connection

Maybe this will help ---

Also check the fuel shut off switch since you do not have power.

which engine? 2.5 or 4L ,,, always engine first...... ill post for 4liter.
the first test on all EFI, (varies rules) but here it is.
many cars only have power to the pump cranking and running (ONLY)
(crash and burn rules... dig it?)
so use the meter this time and crank.
fuses first check.

btw, alldata.com has that, login and look, like us.
see schem linked here. its real simple and is online. (goggle)

this EFI pump in 1993, is 100% controlled by the ECU. at all times
Fuse 1, blown kills pump dead.
software (firm) in the ECU controls this.
http://www.fixkick.com/look/odds-ends/jeep/93wrangler-EFI-4L.jpg

if cranking , pump is dead, check coil for 12v, on fuel pump relay
if not 12v across coil, cranking the ECU is bad.
or ECU detects spark loss, again, crash and burn logic in the ECU.

the ecu monitors spark at all times. if bad it cuts fuel
even if spark is GOOD. ! and spark feed back is bad.
that is pin 44 on ECU is dead......... for any reasons.....

Could be a problem in the ignition circuit. Check or test coil and ignition module-one of them may be shutting down or shorting out when they get hot.
Verify by checking for spark at a plug wire immediately after it shuts off: if no spark, it is an ignition problem. Besides the coil and ignition module, other possibilities are the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ecu, the ASD relay (automatic shuit down relay-it's in the power distribution box under hood). If that relay fails, all power is cut to coil and fuel injectors, and maybe the fuel pump also.
Good luck.

fuel pump relay is not supost to spark, to check you need a test ligth or a volt meter, doing it your way will cause a fuse to go or worse damage to ECU internal relay controler. check all your fuses and comand signal from ECU.

your doing the tests wrong (best I can tell)
most cars for sure USA.
the pump only runs key on for 1 or 3 seconds,called the injector PRIMING state. (keyed on only not cranked) and then....
and for sure the same relay closes full time , cranking or running.
so on dead engine all techs know this and crank at the same time measure the 2 power pins to the pump.
in your case it fails. I bet but that is the only test here.
next is the relay, most have 4 pins as yours does.
.
the PCM energizes the relay pump if you crank the starter
I can only assume cranking works all good?????
these rules in the PCM prevents crash and burn, like Ms Heche(RIP). did.
crash ,engine stalls and pump goes off line and not a huge fire. from broken fuel lines, and is USA law too this. safety
on some cars fuel relay goes off one if spark is lost and for sure injectors are shut down spark seen dead. all this is pure PCM logic. deep inside..
all this is covered in ASE classes to techs. how all this works
it's home users (DIY guys that do no know this ) so here is my lil' hints. late.
it does not work like say a swimming pool pump.sorry
2.2L engine.
oops this 2.2 L puppy has oil pressure switch that kills the pump fast after a short run of he engine, saving it.

all fuses must be good, top PCM too, f9/10
and check engine light good must glow key on or PCM is dead

the ecu enables fuel pump relay first. then oil pressure good susains the fuel pump relay.
so PCM F6 dark green/white wire is what energizes the FP relay coil.
if pump is dead (voltage dead) to pump cranking , no longer than 10seonds(not overheating starter)
and fall fuses are good. all as in ALL.
F6 wire at ECU/PCM is check next or at FP relay.
check all pins of FP relay for correct voltage cranked (dead engine STARTER Good)
and be fully aware of all ways the PCU will shut down the FP relay
not saying I know them all , it is Firmware logic in the PCM.

better photo here.

https://imgur.com/a/rB4j125

Providing a accurate diagnosis is difficult. All previous advice could be correct.

I'd look into the fuel delivery issue first. The MPI (fuel pump) relay is controlled by the engine computer (ECU). If this is OK, your Check Engine Light should be off. A test with an OBD-2 code reader will tell if the ECU really is OK, and show any error codes.

If the ECU is OK, and the fuel pump is getting power, open the gas tank cap and see if this helps the car to start. (might be worn pump issues).

If you are actually getting fuel and spark, a no-start condition will generally throw an ECU error code, see above. There may be a crank or cam sensor that has failed.

The next thing to check is that the timing belt has not slipped a few teeth. This does happen. Your engine is probably a 4G64, and you MAY get away with it without bending valves. Or maybe not.

Hi, if the car runs with the jumper wire, maybe the wire from the ECU is bad. The pump is powered by the 30 amp fuse #1 in the box under the hood. The relay coil is powered by the EEC power relay, and receives it's ground connection from the ECU. If fuse 1 is good, odds are the relay is not getting the ground signal. You can verify this by connecting a test light to the positive battery terminal and probing the relay socket. The pump terminal will dimly light the test light, and when the key is on the ground signal from the ECU should make the light bright. If you don't get this light, either the ECU is not turning the pump on, or the wire from the ECU is bad. Going back to my first question--does the car run with the jumper? If yes, I would guess the wire is bad. If no, I would say there is a reason the ECU is not trying to turn on the pump--like maybe a security system or safety interlock. An easy way to force the relay to come on is to cut the tan/light green wire from the ECU and ground the side that goes to the relay. The pump will run when the key is on, but the ECU will noit be able to shut it off. Please let me know if you have questions.