What order do I install the carb boots to help reinstall the dual carbs?

check your carb intake boot( rubber boot between carb and engine) check to be sure it didnt get blown off by backfire. loosen clamp and reinstall carb assy. then retighten the clamps

You need aftermarket intake manifolds, one for each side. The carbs sit on either side of the engine. Later VW buses had Porshe 914 engines that had duel carbs. They were a big pain and they had to be balanced properly or the engine would run rough.

If you're looking for more power, two carbs isn't going to help. Instead you need a newer style engine, such as the dual port 1600cc. You can also run bigger jugs and pistons.

Check to see if it is sucking thru the carb. it should suck only - no blowing out of it. You could also check to make sure the carb is actually in the rubber boot that attaches it to the head - the blast likes to backfire and pop the carb out of the boot or pop the boot off the head. (REALLY COMMON). If it is sucking without any blowing, spray some fuel into the carb and see if it starts if it does - carb wasn\'t cleaned or has bad fuel/water in the gas. If it is blowing out of the carb you have internal engine woes that need the dealer to help you out. (stuck/bent valve)

Hello.

Just some thoughts:

1. Your Windows XP install (image ?) may be corrupt. Reinstall or capture another image.
2. Try installing Windows XP on C: and Windows 7 on D: That way the boot files are left for the older version.

Hope this helps.

Hi there,
So I am guessing that u r adding a new carb.
Before u take all vaccuum lines off, put white paper tape on them
an number them where they go.
When u get new carb look to see if it has all the ports that the
old carb did. Or why not??
Should not be that tuff though!

It is actually very simple. The carbs are mounted to the intake by 2 bolts. There is a clamp on the other end that connects the air filter to the carbs. Before removing these connections you will first turn off the gas to the carbs via the petcock at the tank. You will then remove the throttle and choke linkage, (taking note of how it is attached for reassembly purposes). You may now remove first the air filter clamps then the bolts that connect the carbs to the intake manifold at the engine end of the carbs. I suggest you buy kits to rebuild the carbs, they contain needle valve seats and gaskets. You can disasemble the carbs and soak in carb cleaner overnight..then you will blow them out with compressed air. Make sure you remove the plaque build up in the carb bowls. You can now reassemble with the new gaskets and reinstall in reverse order. Good Luck! I hope you find this to be very helpful!

its quite the job, you need to rotate the engine to access the carbs etc,make sure your carb to engine boots and carb to airbox boots are supple if they are hard and they probably will be it would be agood time to replace them $25 each making instalation easier. check out he web site the is a good book too purchase on the subject..

www.cbxworld.com

this is monocylinder bike. Whatta you call dual carb??? There is only 2 screw on the carb. Idendify your carb model by researching on google, then look for the exploded view on the website of the carb builder, and you'll find more info... And if it works allright, DONT MESS WITH IT!

Try soaking the intake rubbers in hot water, then refit and try again,if the rubbers are too hard soak them in thinners for a few hours or untill their plyability is back to normal and you will have no problem fitting your carbs.

First, change the spark plug and oil. The stock plug is NGK DPR8Z and 10w40 motor oil is what you need. There is no oil filter. Changing the oil acts as the "filter". Lubricate the chain. be sure it has no kinks in it. If kinks, then get a new 520 chain. The stock sprockets are 50 tooth and 13 tooth. Lubricate the control cables with liquid graphite, ( Lock Eze ). Make sure the tires have adequate pressure. Check the spokes and snug up any that are lose.

The carbs will be your only problem area. The bike has four valves and a primary/secondary carb set up. The dual carb setup makes the bike more responsive. The set up does mean twice the effort to clean the carbs and twice the likelihood something will go sour. Sitting for two years is not a good thing. The gas in the carbs evaporates and leaves varnish to gum up the jets and passageways. If the fuel petcock (gas valve) was left open, you can really have a problem. Remove the gas tank. Dump out the gas tank and inspect it. Is there rust in the drained gas? If so, remove the petcock and put a LOT of large nuts into the tank and shake the tank well to let the abrasive action of the nuts break away the loose rust. Flush the tank well. You may want to consider a tank liner. This will solve the rust problem forever. Google “ kreem fuel tank liner “ or go to
www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

Disassemble and clean the petcock. Now install an in-line fuel filter and make sure the fuel line is clear. On the bottom of the carb(s) is a drain plug. Remove the plug and and hope it is clean. Open the gas valve and see if gas is flowing past the float valve. If you lucked out and the plug was pretty clean and WITHOUT RUST, go ahead and install the plug, turn on the gas and see if it will start up. If the bike runs poorly after warming up, your next project is to clean the carbs.

FOR EACH carb > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together and install the carb. Clean or replace the air filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

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