HELP PLEASE!!!!!!! dead short in the brown power wire and traced it to the voltage regulator pulled top off and pulled the contacts apart and there is no more arc were i cut the brn. wire and touching them together.is the voltage regulator bad!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1977 KZ650 b1 model

At the rear of the alternator is a little D-shaped hole near where the two wires plug into the side. With the engine running, insert a short copper wire into that hole - it should only go in about 3/8" or so. There's a little contact inside, and the point of this procedure is to intentionally short-circuit that little contact to the body of the alternator. If the regulator's good, you should suddenly hear the engine labor a little, or hear the fan belt start squeaking a little like it's working harder than normal. When that little contact is shorted on a good regulator, it tells the regulator to charge 100%, full-bore. Voltage should rise sharply while your wire's in there.

When you pull your wire back out, voltage should drop to normal again.

If the regulator's bad, then shorting the little contact will have no effect at all.

You might want to be sure you're getting voltage to the two small wires that plug into the alternator's side - if you're not, the alternator won't charge right if at all. One wire should be energized when the key's turned on, the other is a sense line but should also show voltage with the key turned on.

If the alternator has only one wire connected to it, someone has swapped out the original-style alternator for a one-wire alternator. I have mixed feelings about those. The only way to test them is measure their voltage output - if lower than about 12 or higher than about 14.5, the regulator's not working right. It SHOULD be right around 13.8 volts.

Let the car run for a little while. The battery will read lower after starting because it just pulled power out to start the car. If battery light comes on or the voltage keeps dropping trace all wires and make sure connections are tight. I would think that a 95 model car would have an internal voltage regulator but if not find it and replace it. But be sure to unhook the battery first or you will short the new regulator out too.

Hi alscyber1,

Here are some basic steps that will help you fixing the problem.

I'm assuming that your unit is dead set without an standby LED light and your outlet is live.1.Power cord - check the cord it might be opened (no continuity).This is due to frequent bending,pulling. 2. Power switch - check for dry joints, open contact. 3.Check the internal fuse- sometimes the fuse fail because of the power surge, replacing with new one will cure the problem, If this is the case I would advice you to use surge protector/AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator). However if the fuse blew again this is an indication that you have a shorted parts in the power supply, you may visit the linkhttp://www.fixya.com/support/r8053361-fuse_keeps_blowing for more info. If no reaction and still the unit didn't power up then you have an open parts on the power supply.

4.If you see that the fuse is intact , don't attempt to touch anything because there some fatalcomponents stored electricity enough to hurt you with a simple mistake only. I would advice you to look for a professional to troubleshoot the power supply. If you want to repair it yourself make sure that you have necessary tools and test instrument. First check bad solder joints(re-solder all cold solder), leaky electrolytic capacitor(sometimes it has bulged at the top but not all, you better have a capacitor checker), open/shorted regulator transistor/IC(mounted in heat sink), open fusible resistor (caused by shorted regulator Transistor/IC), shorted zener diode.

You may also replace the power supply board, try online like ebay.com and shojimmy.com.

Also check if your unit is under warranty before opening the back panel, it will void the warranty. Avail it because the manufacturer of your unit will fix it for free or a little charge only.

Hope I helped you.

Have a nice day!

Thanks for using fixya.

Lets start by knowing the year and model of Lincoln. A voltage regulator would not cause a no start unless the battery went dead because the charging system didn't work, in that case you would have had a red battery warning light on in the dash. 1st question after model and year info is has the battery been tested? Is the start signal leaving the ignition starter switch on the steering column, the older style ignition starter switches come apart and can cause this.

Trace all of the wires that are attached to the alternator. If there is a fusible link or a broken wire you will find it. If the alternator is charging but something else is wrong the alternator will pull a steel wrench toward it. You did not mention the voltage regulator. You will find it when tracing your wires. Look it over carefully. Voltage regulators fail keeping the alternator from working. Parts stores have regulators and they are easy to install.

You had a short, which kept blowing the fuse. Now the wire may have been pinched somewhere and finally come apart. You now need to trace the circuit with a voltage tester of some kind. Look for 12v dc at the fuse, then the switch input, the switch output and along the wire which usuall runs along the drivers side under the moulding at the door sile, under back seat into the trunk to the lamps. The fron light wires go through a grommet in the firewall up to the lights. Was the car in an accident or had work done just before this started.

power supllay

The first thing to check on this machine is your voltage regulator try bypassing the voltage regulator to see if the alternator starts charging, it would be better to check your charging system with a voltmeter so that you know what the exact input and output in the electrical system.

Check for dead shorts by making sure all electrical components are in the off position. Remove the + battery lead. Slightly touch the lead to the + terminal on the battery in a sweeping pass by motion. If you see an electrical arch it is possible you have a bare wire or a compressed one shorting out your system. Start eliminating each component one at time to see what is causing the short. If you are a novice electrical engineer then you might think about contacting a real professional before you burn up the whole shebang.

check secondary voltage first and look for short.if you replace the regulator strs6707 you replace also c623 220uf/16volts