Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay) 4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back) 2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back) 2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back) 1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front) 1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front) 1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it) 1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it) new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc. new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change head gaskets some
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
2*4. The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was: $76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab $47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC $57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC $103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC $28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC Its
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time). It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle. It
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car. You
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides! Disclaimer
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you. A
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts. Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o. Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6. At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated. The
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves. The
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing. The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head. With
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level. It
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure. Be
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve. Now
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight. There
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT) For
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100. There
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
Timing Overview
Engine out procedure - OK here we go
Remove battery
Remove
radiator fan clutch, (note: its normal RHT. stop clutch from turning
by holding one of the 4 small bolts with wire to another pulley, turn
anti clockwise till its tight, attach large robogrip or equiv, extend
torque by adding a large spanner to end, turn hard to left) FYI its
36mmDrain engine oil + remove the filter & remove the transmission line bracket bolt (from behind where the oil filter was).
Remove clutch, fan + shroud from vehicle
Drain radiator fluid - if you want to keep it - then use the tap on bottom air filter side of radiator.
Remove
Radiator from vehicle (as the engine needs to come out - you can leave
the radiator in the vehicle for this procedure, but its a tight fit to
pull the engine out - you will need to twist front up and back to the
left - so better to bull the radiator out)Remove the fan belt
Remove all the **** from the top of the engine, i.e. all the air intake + air filter + throttle cables + harness etc
Remove the upper air intake + disconnect all vacuum lines, block the 6 lower openings with 6 rags.
Relieve the fuel rail pressure - via the valve on fuel line - using a nail - like air from a type.
Undo
the fuel line to the injector rails (2 bolts each side) and wiggle /
pull apart - there is an o ring inside, seal all fuel openingsUndo the power steering pump line from middle of car - all the fluid will thus run out into a bucket
Undo and label all the electrical connectors, start labelling from 01 etc - you will end up at about 30.....
Undo
accessory assembly (the air conditioner + others on battery side and
swing into ex battery spot - the air coon does not have to be messed
with as there is enough play in the cables)Remove the belt pulley tensioner and swing the entire alternator assembly bracket into the air filter box.
The Front of the engine is now completely free / clear.
Jack
up vehicle + remove both front tyres + support 2 strong stands +
remove both type/engine aprons, also put wood to support next to stands
as who would trust their life to a weld?Undo Starter motor and leave connected to power cables, but place away from engine block.
Remove
the 4 talk converter to flywheel bolts - have helper rotate engine
(always clockwise - never the other way as the plastic timing guides
will destroy themselves)Put a hydraulic jack under exhaust to stop in from moving
Put a hydraulic jack under the tranny front edge on a flat piece of wood to stop it from moving / turning.
Remove the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold bolts with air tools - too easy!.
Undo
all other bolts + lines + harnesses that you can find that prevent you
from pulling the engine - such as the tranny dip stickMark and remove the front bonnet
Attach
engine hoist to engine somehow - I used 4 ropes to all 4 corners of
the exhaust manifold - use a good rope and good knots! - take the
engine weight up.Remove the lower 4 Tranny bolts and label them
Remove
the upper 4 Tranny bolts and label them (through where the tyres were)
- that's all 8 bolts now (not 6 as the ford cd says!)Remove all the engine mount bolts (all 8 of them - 4 each side - not that hard with the tyres off)
Undo
the main firewall harness - drill out the 2 rivets - pull the harness +
earth ribbon + Undo cut the small earth wire to bolt (join it up
later)Pull the engine out a little - Undo the 4 back electrical harnesses + label them
Pull the engine + remove the flywheel + put on engine stand via the 4 engine block bolts (Not the ladder frame etc bolts)
Well done if you got here in 2 days!
Engine tear down procedure:
Remove spark plugs from the engine + label the leads - pull the wires from plugs but leave them on the coil
Remove the harmonic balancer and ensure keyway is at 12:00 - To remove you need long screws
Remove the lower air intake + all harnesses
Remove the complete electrical harness & coil & wires with a helper as a complete unit
Remove the engine oil dip stick - it pulls out with a twist!
39. Remove both valve covers
40. Remove both hydraulic / oil cam chain tensioners
41. Clean out and loose broken cam tensioner pieces (heads still on)
42. Remove the timing cover, you can leave the water pump housing on I think if you want - but mine was already messed with by someone - so im doing it again anyway, as I dont trust ford silicon.
43. Clean out and loose broken crank tensioner pieces (heads still on)
44. Turn the engine over a few times to make sure it feels smooth and get a feel for it.
45. Again clean out any new loose plastic pieces as the guides will probably be broken.
46. Remove the sump cover - from under the stand - dont rotate the engine as pieces of loose plastic guide may move!
47. Remove the oil pickup pipe and check that the screen and pipe are clear - mine was full of plastic!!!!!! clean the area and reassemble the sump.
48. Check the engine is at TDC (keyway up or use the crank TDC tool) and the 3 drive chains are loose (dont ever rotate the engine left).
49. Using the special ford tool, remove both the upper cam sprockets - no need to hold the shaft with the alignment tool - the shaft is not under any tension. Note: The rear cam sprocket is left hand threaded
50. If you are going to remove the heads - do so now, I did as I also had a water leak and wanted to completely elimiate the heads but you may be able to do this job without pulling the heads as the chain guide sprocket will fit out the top of the head.
51. Leave the exhaust manifolds on - they are what i used to lift the engine in and out of the car.
52. Remove the timing cover - leave the water pump cover alone - no need to open that up.
53. Remove jackshaft plug by flipping it over with a hammer, hold the jack shaft rear with a torx55, use powerful pneumatic tool to undo the front jackshaft bolt, if the back turns first then you need to get creative.
54. Remove the front jackshaft metal tensioner cassette chain sprockets
55. Undo the rear cam guide holder bolts and remove the sprocket chain guide
56. Undo the front cam guide holder bolts and remove the sprocket chain guide (may be a bit hard if the read is still on)
57. Service the balance shaft as needed, put a new cassette in if needed, the tensioner is at the very bottom of the engine and if replacement is needed then the ladder frame will need to be removed - dont do that unless necessary
58. The balance shaft system was not faulty on mine so i did not replace the chain or tensioner - just the cassette.
59. I checked the balance shaft timing and found it correct, to do this align the 2 dots with the hole to the right of the sprocket and ensure TDC on the crank. You will need to rotate up to 7 times, checking each time due to the reverse gearing ratio.
60. Clean the heads piston tops if you pulled the heads
61. Well done if you got here in 2 days!
Valve timing
1. re-insert the old front jackshaft bolt
AS YOU SEE MY DIRECTIONS GOT AROUND BACKWARDS SORRY HOPE THIS HELPS
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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-remove-timing-chain-cover-and.html
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