How do I remove arrow 2 into1 exhaust system - 2008 Triumph Triumph Bonneville

Oxygen sensors monitor the exhaust stream, comparing the oxygen content in it to the oxygen content of ambient air. When oxygen content is low, sensor voltage is high. When oxygen content is high, sensor voltage is low. The voltage created by the sensor is sent to the DME (engine control module) to help maintain a proper fuel mixture. The mixture preparation is used to keep the catalytic converters running at peak efficiency. The oxygen sensors used in E60 models covered in this article has four wires. Two of which are for oxygen sensor heating and two for the signal. The heater is used to get the sensor online faster. Previously, exhaust heat was used. One wire supplied a ground to the sensor for the signal, and the other was for the sensor signal.
Oxygen sensors should be replaced every 100,000 miles. In a perfect world that would be it. Wait until a specified mileage and replace the sensor. However, these sensors fail prematurely, set oxygen sensor fault codes and reduce fuel economy. In this article, I will show you how to identify the location of all four oxygen sensors and how to replace them. You will need an oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors and remember to always work with a cool exhaust. Oxygen sensors are fragile. Do not drop, as damage may occur. Also, keep the sensor tip clean when reinstalling.
Oxygen sensors are laid out in banks, which refer to cylinders and in sensor numbers referring to before or after the catalytic converter. Bank1 or B1 refers to cylinders 1-3. Bank 2 or B2 refers to cylinders 4-6. Sensor 1 or S1 refers to the sensor before the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 or S2 refers to the sensor after the catalytic converter.
Remember that your car may have been serviced before and parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.
Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.
Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.
Figure 1 Bank 1 Sensor 1 is indicated by a yellow arrow. Bank 2 Sensor 1 is pointed out with a green arrow. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 has a green arrow. Bank 2 Sensor 2 is shown with a yellow arrow. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 3 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust manifold. Remove the engine covers. See our tech article on engine covers removing. Locate the oxygen sensor electrical connectors at the right side of the engine above the exhaust manifold. Label or mark the wiring harness to aide during reinstallation. I suggest replacing one sensor at a time so you do not mix up connectors. Using an oxygen sensor socket, loosen the oxygen sensor connection to the exhaust manifold. Do not unscrew yet. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 4 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Pull the wiring harness out of the mounts (green arrows) along the valve cover. Bank 1 sensor 1 shown, bank 2 sensor 1 is similar. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 5 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Next, disconnect the electrical connector of the oxygen sensor you are replacing (yellow arrow). First, remove the electrical connector from the mounting bracket (green arrow) by pulling straight up. Once out, disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release tab and pulling it apart. Note the wiring harness color and the factory sensors color code sensors to help when replacing. Locate the color of the sensor you loosened. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold. Lightly coat the new oxygen sensor thread with anti-seize compound. Install the new oxygen sensor and tighten to 50Nm (37 ft-lb). Then reroute the wiring harness and connect the electrical connector. Repeat if replacing both sensors. Then reassemble the engine covers and clear any engine fault codes using a BMW scan tool. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 6 Replacing sensors after catalytic converter: Oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust, behind the catalytic converters. Working below the transmission, remove the transmission splash shield. See our tech article on lower splash shield replacing. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor connection to the exhaust manifold. When reinstalling the sensor, do not allow the harness to remain twisted (green arrow). Be sure it is properly routed and tension free. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 7 Replacing sensors after catalytic converter: Next, disconnect the electrical connector of the oxygen sensor you are replacing. First, remove the electrical connector from the mounting bracket (green arrow) by pulling it straight out toward the left side of the engine. Once out, disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release and pulling it apart (inset). Note the wiring harness color, factory sensors color code sensors to help when replacing. Locate the color of the sensor you loosened. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold. Lightly coat the new oxygen sensor thread with anti-seize compound. Install the new oxygen sensor and tighten it to 50Nm (37 ft-lb). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 8 Then reroute the wiring harness and connect the electrical connector. Repeat if replacing both sensors. Then reassemble the engine covers and clear any engine fault codes using a BMW scan tool.

Take it back and get the right motor for that model. don-ohio (:^)

Need a new transmission

Most front wheel drive cars nowadays use a series of cables to actuate the transmission gear changes. Because the transmission in front wheel drive cars is mounted transversely rather than longitudinally, it is difficult to come up with an actual mechanical linkage from the gearshift lever to the transmission. Having a cable operated system allows much more flexibility. NOTE: this arraignment is also used in some mid-engine cars, such as the Porsche Boxster.

This system typically works very well, although there is a weak spot in the design. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the cable. In our case, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could render the gearshift useless. Replacing the cables is well within the reach of the do-it-yourselfer, however you do need to gain access to the underside of the car.

Begin by removing the air filter assembly (See our article on installing a performance intake system for more info). Underneath the lower airbox are the attachment points for the shift cables on the transmission (See Figure 2). Pry off the ball ends of the transmission with a screwdriver. If your cable ends are still good, I would recommend using a forked tool to apply equal pressure to each side of the rubber joint (See Figure 3). Once the ends are disconnected, squeeze the metal clips holding the cable ends into the black plastic holder and pry each cable end out (See Figure 4).

Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Refer to our article on jacking up your car for more info. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. We will need to access the shifter housing which sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the tunnel (See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8). There are a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car (See Figure 9). Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don't need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it (See Figure 10).

The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 10mm bolts that secure the mounts to the bracket. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts (See Figures 11, 12 and 13).

Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing (See Figure 14). Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands (See Figure 15).

Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it (See Figure 16). You will now be able to see the two tabs holding the shift cable to the body directly above the catalytic converter. Pry the two rubber grommets holding the cables out of the tabs (See Figure 17).

Follow the cables back to the shifter housing. Now pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (See Figure 18). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off and pull the cables out of the shift housing and free of the car (See Figure 19 and Figure 20 ). Be sure to remove the small o-rings on the end of the old cables, and slide them onto the new cables.

Now feed the new shift cables through the holes in the shifter housing, (taking care that the small o-rings around the cable retainers seat properly) Refit the cable retainer clips and pop the cable ends onto the new shift lever ball joints and re-fit the shift housing cover. work the other end of the cables up under the subframe to the plastic retainer on the transmission. Clearance will be tight in this area. Now, mount the plastic cable ends into the slots on the side of the retainer until they lock into position (See Figure 21). Now route the rubber grommets on the new cables into the tabs on the body above the catalytic converter. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket.

From the top of the car, inside the engine compartment, pop the new cable ends onto the ball joints on the transmission. Now get in the car and work the gearshift, checking that each throw operates smoothly.
Figure 1Shown here are a set of new shift cables for the MINI Cooper S. Over time, the rubber that surrounds the spherical ends of the cable can wear or even tear loose, rendering the shifter inoperable.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 2Remove the air filter assembly to access the upper shift cable connection to the transmission.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 3Use two screwdrivers to pry the spherical ball joints off the connection points at the linkage. BMW specifies the use of a two armed tool to apply equal pressure to either side of the ball joint. With care, the screwdriver method will work. You can also use a an open end wrench to pry the ball joint off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 4Once the cable ends are removed, squeeze the metal clips that hold each cable into the plastic retainer and pry them out (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 5Jack the car up, place it on jack stands and remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the center tunnel. Remove the nuts shown here on the driver's front side (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 6Shown here are the body nuts to be removed on the passenger front side. (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 7Moving down the center of the car, remove the body nuts in the middle (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 8Keep moving towards the rear of the car and remove the body nuts towards the rear of the shield.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 9Don't forget to remove the small 8mm screw securing the front of the heat shield right above the catalytic converter.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 10Remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield (green arrow).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 11Remove the six 10mm bolts holding the exhaust mount bracket to the body (green arrows) as well as the two 10mm bolts securing the exhaust mounts to the bracket (yellow arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 12Once you rotate the bracket down, you can see how the exhaust mounts hook inside at one end. (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 13Rotate the bracket down further and move the exhaust mounts to release them from them. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 14Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 15Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 16Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 17Up above the heat shield are the two tabs that hold the shift cables in place (green arrows). Pry out the cables to free them from the center tunnel.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 18Now, pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (yellow arrow). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. I grabbed the cable end with some channel locks and gave it a good tug downward (green arrow). Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off (fuchsia arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 19Once loose, pull the shift cable retaining clips down and off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 20Slide the shift cables back and out of the shift housing. Don't forget to remove the small seals on the end of each cable and fit them to the new cables.Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 21Feed the new cable ends up through the engine compartment into the black plastic retainer and pop them both into place (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image

Hello vocalviixen,

The pipe that you referred to is the exhaust crossover pipe. Below I've included removal and installation instructions.

Also, the procedure for bleeding the coolant system is critical; if you need those instructions please post the question.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
2. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
3. Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
4. Remove the inlet radiator hose from the engine.
5. Remove the thermostat bypass pipe.
6. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts.
7. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.
8. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts.
9. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the exhaust crossover pipe.
2. Install the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts.
3. Tighten the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts to 18 lb ft.
4. Install the exhaust crossover heat shield.
5. Install the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts.
6. Tighten the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts to 89 lb in.
7. Install the thermostat bypass pipe.
8. Install the inlet radiator hose to the engine.
9. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant.
10. Install the throttle body air inlet duct.
11. Connect the battery ground (negative) cable.


Regards,
netvan

P0141 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

The random multiple cylinder misfire can be caused by a bad O2 Sensor.

Try to change the O2 Sensor out, they can be tricky though, with the threads sometimes becoming gauled if removed when cold.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Open the hood and locate the O2sensor connector. It may be necessary to raise and safely support the vehicle for access to the sensor and its connector. NOTE: On a few models, it may be necessary to remove the passenger seat and lift the carpeting in order to access the connector for a downstream O2sensor. Fig. 1: Since sensor locations vary between vehicles, the first step in removal is to locate the O2sensors (arrows) . . .
   Fig. 2: . . . and the sensor connector (2), which is usually near the O2sensor (1), but removed enough from the heat of the exhaust system
   Fig. 3: Disengage the sensor pigtail connector half from the vehicle harness connector half
   Fig. 4: For flange type sensors, loosen the hold-down fasteners . . .
   Fig. 5: . . . which happen to be nuts in this particular case - some models may use bolts rather than nuts
   Fig. 6: Then, pull the sensor out of the exhaust component
   Fig. 7: For screw-in type sensors (arrow) . . .
   Fig. 8: . . . either use a box end wrench to loosen the sensor or a socket designed expressly for this purpose . . .
   Fig. 9: . . . then remove the sensor from the exhaust component
   
   
4. Disengage the O2sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector. NOTE: There are generally 2 methods used to mount an O2sensor in the exhaust system. Either the O2sensor is threaded directly into the exhaust component (screw-in type) or the O2sensor is retained by a flange and 2 nuts or bolts (flange type). WARNING
   To prevent damaging a screw-in type O2sensor, if excessive force is needed to remove the sensor lubricate it with penetrating oil prior to removal. Also, be sure to protect the tip of the sensor; O2sensor tips are very sensitive and may be easily damaged if allowed to strike or come in contact with other objects.
   
5. Remove the sensor, as follows:
   • Screw-in type sensors: Since O2sensors are usually designed with a permanently-attached wiring pigtail, it may be necessary to use a socket or wrench that is designed specifically for this purpose. Before purchasing such a socket, be sure that you can't save some money by using a box end wrench for sensor removal.
   • Flange type sensors: Loosen the hold-down nuts or bolts and pull the sensor out of the exhaust component. Be sure to remove and discard the old sensor gasket, if equipped. You will need a new gasket for installation.
6. Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black sooty deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may indicate an oil consumption problem, and white gritty deposits may indicate an internal coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor if not corrected before installation. To install:
   
7. Install the sensor, as follows: NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on most screw-in type O2sensor threads, and is designed to ease O2sensor removal. New sensors usually have the compound already applied to the threads. However, if installing the old O2sensor or the new sensor did not come with compound, apply a thin coating of electrically conductive anti-seize compound to the sensor threads. WARNING
   Be sure to prevent any of the anti-seize compound from coming in contact with the O2sensor tip. Also, take precautions to protect the sensor tip from physical damage during installation.
   • Screw-in type sensors: Install the sensor in the mounting boss, then tighten it securely.
   • Flange type sensors: Position a new sensor gasket on the exhaust component and insert the sensor. Tighten the hold-down fasteners securely and evenly.
8. Reattach the sensor pigtail connector to the vehicle harness connector.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
11. Start the engine and ensure no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are set.

Cylinder Head Removal & Installation SOHC To Remove:

1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
2. Remove timing belt cover. Camshaft timing marks
   
   
3. Turn crankshaft until timing mark on front housing and the arrow "2" on the camshaft pulley align.
4. Loosen lock bolt on tensioner.
5. Pry tensioner away from timing belt and tighten lock bolt to relieve tension on the timing belt.
6. Remove timing belt from camshaft pulley.
7. Disconnect battery negative cable.
8. Remove 3 bolts that secure accelerator cable and air intake hose to cylinder head cover.
9. Detach accelerator cable and place off to side.
10. Remove the following;
    • Air hose
    • Air ISC air hose
    • Breather hose
    • Vacuum hose from air intake hose
11. Disconnect mass air flow sensor electrical connector.
12. Remove air intake hose.
13. Remove PCV valve from cylinder head cover.
14. Remove ISC air hose from idle speed actuator.
15. Remove air hose from behind intake manifold.
16. Remove 2 screws from high tension wire protectors.
17. Detach wire loom from holder at rear of cylinder head cover.
18. Detach vacuum tube at rear of cylinder head cover.
19. Remove vacuum pipe. Cylinder Head Cover
    
    
20. Remove 7 cylinder head cover bolts.
21. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.
22. Disconnect 2 ignition coil electrical connectors.
23. Disconnect 2 fuel injection electrical connectors at rear of cylinder head.
24. Disconnect the following electrical connectors;
    • Oxygen sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Idle speed actuator
    • Oil pressure switch
    • EGR vacuum solenoid valve at intake manifold
25. Disconnect heater hose from elbow.
26. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose and cruise control vacuum hose from surge tank.
27. Detach wire harness from rear of cylinder head.
28. Disconnect purge control solenoid vacuum hose from intake manifold.
29. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel connector assembly.
30. Remove grounding bracket.
31. Remove 4 bolts and intake manifold bracket.
32. Remove starter.
33. Detach water bypass hose from bypass pipe.
34. Disconnect water hoses from oil cooler.
35. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel pipe.
36. Remove exhaust manifold heat shield.
37. Remove exhaust flange nuts and front exhaust bracket bolt.
38. Lower exhaust system. Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence
    
    
39. Loosen cylinder head bolts in 3 steps in proper sequence.
40. Remove cylinder head bolts and washers.
41. Remove cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as an assembly.

To Install:

1. Install NEW cylinder head gasket.
2. Install cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as an assembly.
3. Tighten cylinder head bolts in 3 steps in reverse sequence that was used during removal. Tighten bolts to 62 ft lb (84 Nm).
4. Install front exhaust bracket bolt. Tighten bolt to 20 ft lb (27 Nm).
5. Install NEW lower exhaust flange gasket and 3 nuts. Tighten nuts to 24 ft lb (31 Nm).
6. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten nuts to 35 in lb (4 Nm).
7. Connect fuel hose to pipe.
8. Connect 2 hoses to oil cooler.
9. Attach water bypass hose to bypass pipe.
10. Install starter and bolts. Tighten bolts to 34 ft lb (46 Nm).
11. Install intake manifolds bracket and 4 bolts. Tighten bolts to 32 ft lb (45 Nm).
12. Install grounding bracket.
13. Connect fuel hose to fuel connector assembly.
14. Connect the following electrical connectors;
    • Oxygen sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Idle speed actuator
    • Oil pressure switch
    • EGR vacuum solenoid valve at intake manifold
15. Connect purge control solenoid vacuum hose to intake manifold.
16. Attach wire harness from rear of cylinder head.
17. Connect brake booster vacuum hose and cruise control vacuum hose to surge tank.
18. Connect heater hose to elbow.
19. Connect 2 fuel injection electrical connectors at rear of cylinder head.
20. Connect 2 ignition coil electrical connectors.
21. Install cylinder head cover.
22. Install 7 cylinder head cover bolts. Tighten bolts to 60 in lb (7 Nm).
23. Install vacuum pipe and 2 bolts at rear of cylinder head cover. Tighten bolts to 60 in lb (7 Nm).
24. Connect vacuum tube to pipe.
25. Connect loom holder to rear of cylinder head cover.
26. Install 2 screws to high tension wire protectors.
27. Install air hose to behind intake manifold.
28. Install ISC air hose to idle speed actuator.
29. Install PCV valve to cylinder head cover.
30. Install air intake hose.
31. Connect mass air flow sensor electrical connector.
32. Install the following;
    • Air hose
    • Air ISC air hose
    • Breather hose
    • Vacuum hose from air intake hose
33. Attach accelerator cable.
34. Install 3 bolts that secure accelerator cable and air intake hose to cylinder head cover. Timing belt pulley timing marks
    
    NOTE: Timing belt pulley timing mark and timing mark must be aligned.
    Camshaft timing marks
    
    NOTE: The arrow at "2" on camshaft pulley must be aligned with timing mark on front housing.
    
35. Install timing belt.
36. Install timing belt cover.
37. Pressurize fuel system.
38. Start engine and check ignition timing.

• No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out. R&R. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.
• Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: Transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the under hood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.
• No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter : Shift A solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Check to see if your transmission is in the limp mode, which would only give you 2nd, 3rd and reverse gears. No 1st or 4th gear.

* Staintune - Only one available with centerstand stop * Termignoni - (centerstand stop available with full system?) * Arrow * Remus * Leo Vince * Silmoto * Mivv * Quat-D * Startwin * zard * Fast by Ferraci * Yoshimura

* Staintune - Only one available with centerstand stop * Termignoni - (centerstand stop available with full system?) * Arrow * Remus * Leo Vince * Silmoto * Mivv * Quat-D * Startwin * zard * Fast by Ferraci * Yoshimura