2003 Kymco Venox 250 Logo

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Posted on Feb 10, 2011
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The chain guide or slider is broken and i can find the part

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  • Master 426 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2011
Anonymous
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1helpful
2answers

Hi I have this like going from low to high grinding noise near by the camshaft gear or the valve cover but about as high as the camshaft gear it does it after starting car and when start acceletaring and...

Sounds like a Belt or timing chain is slapping inside the Cover ,,, usually a sign that your Belt or chain tensioner is broken ,,, i wouldn't run it to long ,,as it will skip and do serious engine damage ,,GET IT TOWED TO A TRUSTED SHOP !!!
1helpful
1answer

What could be the possible thing that can make the engine to produce noise after doing the valve timing,i used the car for 2days now its making noise from the chain?

the chain has tension adjusters you might have missed this to release and reset them also did you have the crankshaft and camshafts held in place while installing also the chain guide/s could be worn most have plastic guides on the guide rails and contact could have broken this plastic resulting in chain to metal contact I don't know what kind of car your talking about but if its a dual overhead cam with 2 chains this could be it you must you special cam and crankshaft positioning tools to make sure that its in the exact position also your crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor could be unplugged or not working and can not tell the computer where it should be resulting in a loose chain LATER MAN!
0helpful
1answer

Change fork oil street bob 2007

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
1answer

Timming chain noise

The noise your hearing is comming from an aluminum timeing chain guide on the drivers side of the timeing chain. My truck had the same problem. The noise first started when the engine was started and then within seconds went away. I drove it for about a year not knowing what the noise was comming from. A few weeks ago the noise got very loud and the truck stopped starting eventually. A few hours ago I pulled the front of the motor off to replace the timeing chain and my guid was broken right off and laying at the bottom of my oil pan. You can remove the two allen head bolts that hold this guide in place and run the vehicle without the guide. Problem solved and no more noise.
1helpful
1answer

Xr 350 timing chain slop makes noise can i adjust it

Both the 1985 honda xr250r and xr350 look loke they have self adjusting cam chain tensioners. You may have a broken tensioner or tensioner guide. With the age of the bike you may need a new cam chain. There is nothing to adjust so you need to just figure out if the chain is stretched , if a guide is broken, or if the tensioning mechanism is malfunctioning.
0helpful
1answer

1976 kz 900 cam chain guide broken!!!

Tes it is Stephen.. Replacing the guide with prevent the chain from flapping and causing damage to the parts around it. Clean everything off with degresser and a strong hosr and it will be clearer to evaluate. Good Luck -Ned_
0helpful
1answer

Timing chain guide

does any one know were to get the pitchers to change the timing chain for free on the internet
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