What side do I mount first, lever side or motor side. My cable is about an inch from making it to motor side.

Hello. It seems the lower motor mount(s) are worn out; causing the engine to shift forward, coming in contact with the suspension parts. This 'shifting' is quite dangerous and can cause parts to 'clash' together. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

First thing is to get safety glasses,block wheels securely !!...set emergency brake..,get a good flashlight.Disconnect negative battery cable...Some can wear inside the steering column,some can be a worn linkage cable ...The lever on the transmission located under vehicle Trans at lower part of trans,driver side can become loose or possibly damaged...First get under vehicle with safety glasses and observe operation of the lever where shift cable is mounted while assistant puts it in park...make sure the trans shift lever mounting nut is tight before shifting..If assistant can't get it in park use your hand and push forward on the linkage arm and it should go into park manually...If this is the problem you need to change shift cable...Some wear inside the column where steering wheel is mounted..If cab shifter feels very loose ..You will have to remove steering wheel and column cover to inspect."..The cable runs from trans to the steering column..Look between gas and brake pedal and verify cable coming up through floor board and runs to steering column...Double check shifter lever at trans is tight because it is mounted on a splined stud and it can strip the stud threads if it becomes loose..If loose remove lever and inspect splines for damage..Call dealer and make sure they have the part..Remove old cable from trans and put it in park with your hand...Remove and replace cable..Be sure lever inside cab and lever on the trans are both fully engaged into park while cable is removed before installing new cable....Attach new cable.....

I put one in a 1970 Chevelle. I bought the hand choke cable with pull lever and under dash mounting bracket. Mounted pull lever under the dash, drilled a hole in the firewall as high as I could, ran the cable out to the engine compartment. Mounted the holding bracket to the motor as close to carb as possible on the intake, then attached to the choke arm that works the butterfly plate in the carb throat. Cut to fit as tight as possible with butterfly plate closed and push lever all the way in. As you pull the hand lever out inside the car, it opens the butterfly plate to achieve the optimum air fuel mixture you desire to make the engine run smoothly. Sometimes you must go the opposite, lever out and plate closed, depending on the way the carb is set up, and work it the opposite way.

Hi, if you have the 3.0 liter engine, see instructions below. If you have the 4.6 liter, the starter is under the intake manifold.

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Starter electrical connectors Right hand catalytic converter Right side engine mount nuts Intake air resonator to the throttle body ducts
   
3. Install an Engine Support Fixture to the right side of the engine.
4. Raise the right side of the engine approximately 1.5 inches (38mm) to gain access to the starter motor bolts.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Engine mount from the bracket and cradle Engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket Starter motor
6. 
   
7. 
   
   
   

   Fig. Remove the starter motor and bolts
   
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Starter motor. Torque the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm). Engine mount to the bracket and front crossmember. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
   
2. Lower the engine into position and make certain that the mount locator tab is fully seated in the front crossmember slot.
3. Remove the special tools from the engine.
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   Engine mount nuts. Torque the upper nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) and the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Intake air resonator to the throttle body ducts Catalytic converter. Torque the bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) and the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Starter electrical connectors. Torque the battery cable nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm) and the starter solenoid nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Negative battery cable

Put the car on stands and put a jack within a few inches of the under side of the engine. Loosen the bolt mounts by about have a turn. Have a friend use a length of timber and use jack top as a lever fulcrum to take the weight of the engine off the mount whilst you remove the mounting bolts. Take care not to put any load on the oil pan as it can crush quite easily. You should be able to adjust the engine attitude about two inches without having to detach anything, this is enough room to get the old mount out and therefore the new one in. Take your time and keep safe

If the cruise control makes the engine seem to run very rough until disengaging it, there could be a problem with the engine itself. As, most cruise control systems just pull on the throttle cable to maintain speed on the highway based on setting the speed with the button.

So, I would look into the engine maybe having an issue with spark plugs, or wires, or another tuneup or mechanical issue.


Cruise Control Cable Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • The cable from the throttle lever and the accelerator control cable bracket
     
     
   • The cable from the module by rotating the cable counter clockwise at the module
   • The cable from the module band

To Install:
NOTE: Ensure that the module strap is not twisted during cable installation

1. Install or connect the following:
   • The cable to the module band
   • The cable to the module
   • The cable to the throttle lever and the accelerator control cable bracket
2. Adjust the cruise control cable.

Cruise Control Module Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   • The cruise control cable from the module
     
     
   • The electrical connector
     
     
   • The mounting bracket bolt from the cruise control module
   • The cruise control module from the mounting bracket

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • The cruise control module to the mounting bracket
   • The mounting bracket bolt to the cruise control module
     1. Torque to 53 inch lbs.(6 Nm)
   • The electrical connector to the module
   • The cruise control cable to the module

3.0L Engine



Fig. Typical starter mounting on early models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
3. Remove the terminal nuts, washers, and electrical leads from the starter motor.
4. Remove the passenger side catalytic converter.
5. Remove the passenger side engine mount nuts, and lower the vehicle.
6. Disconnect the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
   1. Detach the electrical connector for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
   2. Disconnect the resonance chamber air intake hose from the air cleaner housing and MAF sensor.
   3. Remove the (IAC) inlet hose and the intake plenum air inlet hoses.
   4. Detach the electrical connector from the switchover valve and the remaining vacuum connections.
7. Install the engine support fixture J28467-A with adapters J28467-450 or equivalents and raise the passenger side of the engine.

NOTE Passenger side of the engine must be raised approximately 1.5 inches (38 mm).

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
2. Remove the engine mount from the engine mount bracket and cradle.
3. Remove the engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket.
4. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Install the starter motor to the vehicle and tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
2. Position the engine mount bracket and install the bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
3. Install the engine mount to the engine mount bracket and cradle. Partially lower the vehicle.
4. Lower the engine. Have an assistant guide the engine mount into place while lowering the engine. The engine mount locator tab must engage the slot in the cradle.
5. Reinstall the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
6. Raise the vehicle.
7. Install the passenger side engine mount nuts. Tighten the upper nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
8. Install the passenger side catalytic converter.
9. Plug in the electrical leads, install the washers, and terminal nuts to the starter motor. Tighten the battery cable terminal nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm). And the solenoid terminal nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.

Good luck (remember rated this post).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

3.0L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
3. Remove the terminal nuts, washers, and electrical leads from the starter motor.
4. Remove the passenger side catalytic converter.
5. Remove the passenger side engine mount nuts, and lower the vehicle.
6. Disconnect the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
   1. Detach the electrical connector for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
   2. Disconnect the resonance chamber air intake hose from the air cleaner housing and MAF sensor.
   3. Remove the (IAC) inlet hose and the intake plenum air inlet hoses.
   4. Detach the electrical connector from the switchover valve and the remaining vacuum connections.
   
   
7. Install the engine support fixture J28467-A with adapters J28467-450 or equivalents and raise the passenger side of the engine.
   

NOTE Passenger side of the engine must be raised approximately 1.5 inches (38 mm).

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
2. Remove the engine mount from the engine mount bracket and cradle.
3. Remove the engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket.
4. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Install the starter motor to the vehicle and tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
2. Position the engine mount bracket and install the bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
3. Install the engine mount to the engine mount bracket and cradle. Partially lower the vehicle.
4. Lower the engine. Have an assistant guide the engine mount into place while lowering the engine. The engine mount locator tab must engage the slot in the cradle.
5. Reinstall the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
6. Raise the vehicle.
7. Install the passenger side engine mount nuts. Tighten the upper nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
8. Install the passenger side catalytic converter.
9. Plug in the electrical leads, install the washers, and terminal nuts to the starter motor. Tighten the battery cable terminal nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm). And the solenoid terminal nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.

4.6L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the positive battery cable.

NOTE In order to get to the starter assembly the intake manifold must be removed. Refer to the procedure for removing the intake manifold.

1. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
2. Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body.
3. Detach the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, Throttle Position (TP) sensor, and Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control solenoid and Cruise Control Servo.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body.
5. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the intake manifold.
6. Unhook the accelerator cable at the throttle body and position it out of the way.
7. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the fuel pipe quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
8. Remove the EVAP solenoid bracket at the rear (or right) cam cover.
9. Reposition the transaxle range control cable away from the cruise control servo.
10. Disconnect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and to the coolant reservoir and plug the hoses. Wrap a shop towel around the hoses when disconnecting to avoid spillage.
11. Remove the four intake manifold bolts and lift the intake manifold with the throttle body out of the engine compartment.
12. Unbolt the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts, and lift the starter motor out of the manifold cavity.

To install:

NOTE Before installing the starter motor to the engine, tighten inner nuts on the solenoid terminals to be sure they are secure in the cap. Tighten the inner nuts on the battery terminal and motor terminal to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). If the nuts are not properly tightened, the starter may fail later due to the terminal or cap damage.

1. Install the solenoid switch lead, and tighten the nut to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
2. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
3. Install the starter motor and tighten the mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
4. Install the intake manifold with the throttle body onto the engine and install the four bolts. The four intake manifold bolts must be tightend in a specific sequence to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm), then an additional 120°.
5. Connect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and at the coolant reservoir. Add coolant as needed.
6. Position the transaxle range control cable to the cruise control bracket.
7. Fasten the EVAP solenoid bracket to the rear cam cover.
8. Reconnect the fuel pipes quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
9. Hook the accelerator cable up at the throttle body.
10. Connect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body. Install the PCV hose at the intake manifold.
11. Install the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, the TP sensor ISC motor, EVAP solenoid and the cruise control servo.
12. Install the air intake duct to the throttle body.
13. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Connect the positive battery cable.

4.5L and 4.9L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
3. Remove the starter motor shield.
4. Remove the exhaust front and rear pipe assembly.
5. Remove the flexplate inspection cover.
6. Disconnect the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut.
7. Unbolt the starter motor mounting bolts, and remove the starter motor.
   

Fig. Typical starter mounting on early models


Fig. Later model starter location and mounting on the 4.9L engine



Fig. Starter mounting on 4.5L engine with a starter shield


To install:

1. Install the starter motor, and tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
2. Install the solenoid 'S' terminal nut. Tighten the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
3. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
4. Install the flexplate inspection cover, the front and rear exhaust pipe assembly and the starter motor shield.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope trhis help (remember comment and rated this).

4.3L Engine

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Bracket and shield Wires Mounting bolts and shims Starter

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Starter Mounting bolts and shim. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm). Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm). Bracket and shield. Torque the nuts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Negative battery cable
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor-4.3L engines.
   
   

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Bracket and shield Wires Mounting bolts and shims Starter

To install:
Install or connect the following:

Starter Mounting bolts and shim. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm). Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm). Bracket and shield. Torque the nuts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Negative battery cable


Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor-4.3L engines.

Hope help with this (remember rated and comment this).

On the Ironhead Sportster, the top motor mount bolt that goes through the frame is usually a 1/2 inch bolt. I'd use a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a nylok nut on it. Make sure you "shim" the top motor mount to the frame with the appropiate amount of washers so as not to "torque" the frame. If you do, either the top motor mount or the tab on the frame will break from the torque and vibration.