1982 suzuki gs850 three of the carbs have the passage plug under neath the 40 jet and the 4th one dont. well im only firing on two cylinders and the other 2 are loadin up and foulin out the plugs? and suggestions.

Be sure the ignition wire from the coil, the spark plug, and the plug boot are all in good working order and spark is present with the engine cold. Remove the carb that seems to be the problem. Make sure the fuel from the tank to the carb is not restricted at all, check any filters, screens, petcock valves, etc. Pull the float bowl from the bottom, remove the float ratainer pin, float assembly and shut off needle valve. Blow through the passage with compressed air to make sure it is clear of debris. Now remove the jets from the carburator body. Usually a small flat head screwdriver, and/or a 6mm-8mm wrench is needed. One is located directly under the needle jet, and the other will be close by the first. There may be 3 jets but without seeing the carb I cannot say for sure. If so, remove the third as well. Hold each jet to light to be sure it is clear of debris, used compressed air to clear the passages in the carb body. Assemble and install the carburator and run the engine. If the problem persists, find out if your engine has hydraulic lifters, if so the lifter may not function correctly until you oil warms up and is thin enough to pump through the lifter. This would keep the valve from opening or limit how far it opens, restricting the fuel from entering or exiting the cylinder correctly. Once it warms and the oil thins out the lifter would begin to work properly and the engine run normal. Some might suggest the timing but that isnt likely since the probpem isnt consistent after the engine is warmed up. This could be a sign of a failing gasket on the cylinder, since the engine cold may not pull enough from the intake to draw fuel in, then once the engine is warm, the cylinder expands closing the gap at the place where the gasket is failing, causing it to pull from the intake normally. A leak down test will answer that for you. That would be the last thing to check however. Hope this helps.

is it the carbs with diaphrams on top ? check they seated correctly ! if slide type then renove filter and get a rag to block slightly the cyl thats off as you run engine and see if it starts to fire , if yes then see if it runs without rag acting as a choker ! if not then clean and rebalance the 4 carbs so they open at same time !

Hi I had the same problem with my gs it was valve clearance they were to tight

If should get fuel with full choke...If not you have plugged jets, a bad vacuum leak, or the float level is set too low...

You need 3 things for an engine to run; spark, fuel and compression. How is the compression? Is the spark plug new? If the plug is old, it could give a nice spark when you check it but have no spark under compression. Make sure the fuel you're using is fresh. If you give it a small shot of starting fluid and it fires up, your fuel delivery is suspect. In that case, you will need to remove the carb an THOROUGHLY clean it paying close attention to jets and passages. I always give people this warning: when cleaning jets and passages, NEVER use steel instruments. Use wood, copper wire or other materials that are softer than the material you're working on or you run the risk of ruining jets or even the entire carburetor.

The timing should not need to be adjusted. Most problems with the 160 Suzuki involve the carburetor. Make sure you have spark, pull the spark plug, hook the wire to it and ground the base against the engine. Crank the motor and see if the plug sparks. If it does, your problem is probably the carburetor. Pull the carb down and clean it. Pay special attention to the pilot jet and it's passages. Do not use wire to clean the jets and passages, use a spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Pay special attention to the passage in the float bowl that feeds the starter circuit. It will be a hole at the gasket edge of the float bowl that goes to the bottom of the bowl. There is a small orofice in that passage that is easily blocked, and when blocked, makes the engine real hard to start and keep running until the engine is warm. Good luck

HI A TWO STROKE NEEDS ONLY THREE THINGS TO RUN, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF A POINT GAP AND CORRECT IGNITION TIMEING,

1 FUEL
2 SPARK
3 MOST IMPORTANTLY IS COMPRESON,


IF YOU HAVE A SPARK THEN I WOULD NOT SUSPECT A COIL THEY EITHER WORK OR THEY DONT WORK.
IS THE PLUG GETTING WET ON THE CYLINDER THAT DOES NOT RUN? IF YES THEN ITS NOT A FUEL PROB, IF ITS NOT THEN IT COULD BE A BLOCKAGE SOMEWERE, WHEN ITS RUNING PLACE YOUR HAND OVER THE BACK OF THE CARB, YOU SHOULD THEN FEEL SOME SUCTION, DOING THIS WILL RESTRICT THE AIR FLOW AND PULL FUEL UP THROUGH THE MAIN JET, ELIMINATING A FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEM ITS HOULD THEN FIRE AS YOU HAVE FORCE CHOKED THAT CYLINDER ONLY, IF IT FIRES QUICKLY REMOVE YOUR HAND AND ALOWE AIR FLOW, IF IT DOES NOT FIRE YOU MAY HAVE A COMPESION PROBLEM, REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG, AND USE A COMPESION TESTER TO CHECK FOR COMPRESION VALUES, ALL THREE SHOULD BE SOME WHAT EVEN, IF YOU DONT HAVE A TESTER PLACE YOUR THUM OVER THE PLUG HOLE RESTRICTING IT COMPLETELY KICK OVER THE MACHINE AND THE COMPRESION SHOULD BE FELT, MAYBE EVEN BLOWING YOUR THUMB OFF THE TOP OF THE CYKINDER HEAD SURFACE, REPEAT THIS FOR ALL THREE CYLINDERS IF THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT DIFFERRENCE TO THE LESSER YOU CAN THEN SUSPECT MECHANICAL FAILURE

fuel flow to cold pipe cylinder may be stopped with trash or sticky float.Resistor in plug wire for the one not firing could be bad. Try changing coil from one that is firing to the one thats not,see if that pipe gets hot or does the same thing still happen. coil ,plug wire, or fuel would be my primary focus.

The three required ingredients for combustion are; fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time). When you cleaned the carb and the jets, did you hold each jet up to a light and actually look through them? The openings in the jets are very small and difficult to clean after than many years of sitting. Same with the carburetor; it needs to be completely disassembled and soaked in carb cleaner, then blown out with compressed air prior to reassembly.
Also, I would check the compression with a gauge. You need to see at least 140 psi on every cylinder, or it is not going to run, no matter what. If the compression is low, adjust the valve tappet clearances and see if that brings it up.
If you come up with the three required ingredients, there's no way it isn't going to run.

Sounds the pilot passages and or the needl jet air passages are blocked on the carb for that cylinder that is not fireing. The carb should be removed from the bike and disassembled and dipped in carb cleaner. What I think works best for cleaning carb is Yamaha's Carb Dip I mix it 50/50 with warm water. All the rubber parts must be removed as they will be swell and be damaged by the dip. After you dip the carb will need to verify all passages with spray carb clean to make sure the fluid will make it through the intended passage.