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I HAVE A LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD AIR CONDITIONING (MODEL#FA4BNF036) THAT HAS STOPPED COOLING. I SEE NO LEAK AND HAS BRAND NEW FILTER. IT'S A SINGLE UNIT FOR CONDOMINIUMS. i THINK THAT THERE SHOULD BE A WARRANTY STILL, BUT TO GET TO SERVICE IS BEING A PAIN. CAN ANYONE PLS GIVE ME AN IDEA HOW TO GET IT WORKING AGAIN?
tHANK YOU
Comment by CAAAPEREIRA, posted on May 08, 2008
Yes, I can hear the fans running, but I will have to open the panels to verify everything else. The thermostat shows cools and I have programmed it for the temperature to hit 70F. But the temperature does not go below 79F. Does these kind air conditioning have internal fuse? My apartment lights blinked yesterday and I notice that after that the air conditioning stopped working properly. I pressed the "Reset" button on the digital Thermostat which displays "cooling" but it acutally does not!
I HAVE A LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD AIR CONDITIONING (MODEL#FA4BNF036) THAT HAS STOPPED COOLING. I SEE NO LEAK AND HAS BRAND NEW FILTER. IT'S A SINGLE UNIT FOR CONDOMINIUMS. i THINK THAT THERE SHOULD BE A WARRANTY STILL, BUT TO GET TO SERVICE IS BEING A PAIN. CAN ANYONE PLS GIVE ME AN IDEA HOW TO GET IT WORKING AGAIN?
tHANK YOU
Comment by CAAAPEREIRA, posted on May 08, 2008
Yes, I can hear the fans running, but I will have to open the panels to verify everything else. The thermostat shows cools and I have programmed it for the temperature to hit 70F. But the temperature does not go below 79F. Does these kind air conditioning have internal fuse? My apartment lights blinked yesterday and I notice that after that the air conditioning stopped working properly. I pressed the "Reset" button on the digital Thermostat which displays "cooling" but it acutally does not!
My problem is that the thermostat is set to 69, but the house is still 86 or 87 degrees!!! Cool air blows from the vents but the house is not cooling off. I have a Trane.
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freezer feeds cool air to fridge via a fan --possible causes ---circuit board failure--evap frozen over--evap fan failure --no power--condenser dirty --condenser fan fail--compressor failure --damage with freon leak---thermostat--
I can only say that if this system uses the old style oil filled fan clutch that has been used for over 50 years, the method of testing is to measure fan shaft rpm against engine rpm. When the air temp is cold, the fan clutch is suppose to slip to prevent over cooling the engine. If the fluid runs out from a leak, the blade clutch can no longer lock and you lose air flow.
The electric fan is an option, but many cars have both systems because there is just too much heat to get rid of. Room is always a problem. Some electric fans have 2 speeds, largely dependent on getting sensors to work at 2 different temperatures.
Probably a control board failure. If the modes don't work and the fan auto/on works, I'd say the circuit board has failed. Does the fan turn on when cool is selected? If not, 99% sure it's the board. If it does, it's probably a compressor component issue. Window units are considered throw aways.
Please understand first, air conditioning system not only cooling the area but also removing the heat. If heat in the room stays constantly, even 24 hrs running a/c couldn't cool the room. Now, why the a/c could not cool the room or remove the heat from the room. Check air filter, evaporator coil and blower wheel for clean. If not service the unit immediately. And also check indoor fan motor rpm. If rpm is low, replace fan capacitor. Check for gas pressure to confirm no leak or running with short of gas. It's advisable to service both indoor and out door once in 6 months at least. Otherwise, your electric bill will kill you lot. Thanks.
ck for ice in back of freezer / it sounds like the defrost heater has failed of a evap fan. ice may be blocking coil or the fann is not moving the air .. ****
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Check the fans especially the condenser fan. The
noise if you listen close is probably the klixon cycling because the
compressor is hot. If the condenser is plugged (real dirty), sign of a
clean house, and/or the condenser fan is bad you will not get cooling.
If the condenser fans operating properly and the fans inside the
freezer and refrigerator are operating that would indicate serious
problems assuming the compressor is operating.
It sounds like the fan relay in the stat itself is not closing when you make the switch over. If you have had the stat for less then 5 years it is covered. Honeywell has a full 5 year warranty on their focus pro stats, and would replace it free of charge.
you probably have a defective contactor or start capacitor on condensing unit. if you pretty handy with wiring go to the condensing section open the panel. you should see a contactor (it's the little black piece with all the wires) check the condition of it. next to it is a capacitor and by the problem that you describe it could be that. check it if it looks bloated there's your problem just go an get an combination capacitor and wire up. (make sure the power to unit is off first. any other questions email me @ [email protected]
Hmm.this will require a few questions for you to answer. first does all the fans run, condenser fan??? indoor blower? and does the compressor humms, when you turn it on?
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