2002 Honda CR 250 R loud rattle at idle

SOURCE: 1989 Honda Shadow vt100 final drive

Pull the drain plug and see how many gear pieces fall out >>
The Entire rear end will need rebuilt

SOURCE: I have a 1981 Honda CT110 Trail 2 wheel

The problem is an air leak leaning the fuel mix. The idle speed starts going up a ramp until it is wide open. The valves no longer seating well is a possible cause as is carb manifold gaskets, rings and a cylinder head not torqued down tight.

SOURCE: 2002 HONDA SHADOW ACE 750 CARB

It sounds like you may have or will be jetting your carbs. I did this using the directions with the kit and used the Clyman manual for this bike to show me step by step how to remove the carborator. You will only need to attach 2 of the 4 hoses on your carb. syncronizer. If I remember right, you need to remove the bolt-on cooling fins to expose the engine block. The is a black screw or bolt that you take out and screw the threaded metal adapter of the sync tool. Be careful using the sync tool. Be very light on the throttle or the vacuum in the cylinder will **** in the mercury from the sync tool - not good. The problem you are stating on idle & backing off sometimes happens when the carbs are running rich (too much fuel) Hope that gets you in the right direction.

SOURCE: I have a honda CR-v with 158K miles. I took it to

hi from uk considerig milage ? your engine has done it is most probably in need of some repair HOWEVER! there is a product on the market which is a miracle engine restorer and i have read and impressed with the feedback may i suggest you read this companies results/feedbacks on people who have used the product then try it? the e mail address is WWW.AMERICANTECHNOLOGY.CO.UK e mail [email protected] this american product is now just being made available in the uk so assume it is already available in usa ? please read the results/feedbacks they are impressive hope this provides same results for you? would appreciate if you do use product you could uptate me via fixya as to what results you have with your engine best wishes from silvertop n/west uk

SOURCE: Valve adjustment

Hi CX'er, This is getting basic, but in a 4 stroke engine there are 2 TDC spots . One being the completion of the exhaust stroke, and the second is the completion of the compression stroke . Give her one more turn and the valves will close . I hope that you are using the 17mm port under the radiator to turn the engine . It is the same as the port you are using to view the flywheel markings . Before I begin for the first time, I re-torque the heads . You must use a torque wrench, or risk breaking a bolt ! If you do it afterwards, your valve clearance settings will change . Accuracy is very important, check for tight drag, and check with next thinner for free clearance . Too tight can burn an exhaust valve . I set them to a tight drag, about .001 under, but I verify the clearance, twice . When you do the left side, don't forget to loosen the 10mm cam chain adjusting nut one turn (in front of the flywheel view port). Listen for the little click as the tension spring snaps in to take up the slack, and tighten, that's it . Make 'em purr, J