Starts but will not excelerate,close choke and engine shuts off

get the trouble codes read and fix the problem

Fully close the choke, shut off switch is toggled to "run". Pull start without using the throttle until the engine fires. Set the choke to the second position, pull start again until the engine fires and idles. Allow some time for the engine to warm up while giving light throttle and when the engine responds smoothly, set choke to fully open.

Your engine probably has an automatic choke device that adjusts automatically with engine temperature. To set the choke when the engine is cold you have to depress the accelerator to the floor and release it completely. You shouldn't have to depress the accelerator again to start the engine, turn the key the engine should start. As the engine begins to warm up it will also begin to initially run faster then it will start to run rough. At this point you have to press the accelerator and release it again. The auto choke mechanism should allow the choke butterfly to open. There may be a number of stops in the system and the choke butterfly will stop again still not fully open and only become fully open when the engine is at operating temperature. Hope this answers you question, Rgs. Bob

Other than the fact that GM products are, as a rule, cold blooded in the best of times, your problem could be sourced in many areas. I would first look at the choke, which is probably automatic and closely tied to the computer. That is why you don't pump the excelerator on these newer rigs. GM products also have some redundant systems to prevent burning up your engine. The foremost is the oil pressure switch that shuts down the fuel pump if oil pressure is to low.

Choke is engaged in morning and makes car start real easy. If the choke sticks slightly closed after shutting down the engine and you go to restart it, you'll flood the engine. Could test this theory by trying to start car after it has warmed up, but when you attempt the start, hold the gas peddle to the floor as you start it. If it starts faster then usual, I would check the float levels or choke flap adjustment. Maybe take air cleaner top off and after warmed up, look to see if that choke flap is completely open when you restart the car.

Sounds like the idle circuit in the carb is restricted. The engine is running on the choke only. When the engine reaches a certain temp the fuelthat does get is more readily burned allowing you to back off the choke. The choke probsbly can't be completely opened? right? Fuel quality is also something to consider Oil content in fuel affects combustion temps and volatility. _good luck_Ned_

Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please do not forget to rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this helped

sounds like it may need the carb clening out, but it could be the auto choke not closing when cold. there was an issue with some of the early auto chokes on the gcv135/160 engines so check to see if the choke flap is in the closed position when starting from cold, run the engine for approx 10-15 minutes and see if the choke flap has opened fully.leave it to go cold and see if the choke flap has returned to the closed position

One problem is related to the other.The dieseling is caused by a rich air/fuel mixture which is caused by the closing choke.So you need to adjust the choke to where it is slightly open when the engine is cold.If it is electric then it has a thermostatic device that positions the choke just cracked open when cold and slowly opens as the engine heats up.Whats happening is the choke may actually be loose and when the engine shuts off the vacuum pulls the choke close creating the combustable rich fuel mixture(if you watched the choke when someone else turns off the engine you'll see the choke flapping while the engine is dieseling).Try putting a screw driver in the carb(with engine running) blocking the choke from closing.Then shut the engine off.It shouldnt diesel.You may have to replace the carb thermostat

THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT THE CLUTCH ON THE SIERRA THAT IF DOUBLE PUSHED DOWN IT ACTS LIKE A CHOKE. CANNOT QUITE REMEMBER. JUST LEAVE IT OUT OF GEAR AND DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH. THEY FLOOD. i KNOW THIS SOUNDS STUPID. I HAD ONE ONCE AND AFTER ABOUT SIX MONTHS IT STARTED DOING IT. ITS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE CLUTCH AND EXCELERATOR AND HOW YOU PRESS THEM. IT MIGHT BE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE EXCELERATOR AT ALL JUST THE CLUTCH. I CANNOT REMEMBER HAVE A FIDDLE WITH DIFFERENT WAYS OF TRYING TO START THE CAR. CLUTCH DOWN ECCELERATOR DOWN CLUTCH OFF ECCELERATOR OFF. OR EVEN DOUBLE THE CLUTCH TO STOP THE CHOKE. ITS SOMETHING LIKE THAT. PHONE THE DEALER THEY WILL KNOW IN THE WORK SHOP. SAY A SILLY WOMAN SAID IF YOU LIKE. LET ME KNOW.