BARREL LOCK WILL NOT TURN, STICKING WHEN IT DOES TURN THEN IT LOCKS UP AGAIN. PULLED IT OFF A SPRAYED LUBE AND STILL LOCKS UP AND IDEAS HOW TO MAKE THE BARREL KEY TURN FREELY.

If it were mine, I would squirt break cleaner or electrical contact cleaner into it to dry it out and let it set to dry completely. I would then squirt powdered graphite lube into it and work the key in and out repeatedly. I would then unhook the battery and switch it on and off repeatedly to spread the graphite around inside the tumbler.

This happens on all rear child safety locks. The only fix is to take off the trim and spray WD40 into the lock. Don't be stingy with the spray. Once you have sprayed it, move the lock up and down about 20 times. It will fix the problem. You may have to do it again later on depending on your weather conditions-dry and dusty is really bad for these locks. I did mine a year ago and haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps.

You may need to clean the door latch assembly. Your lock may be sticking-check with your local dealership to see if graphite spray is ok to use on your car. If it is spray the lock assembly with graphite while working the locks. You may want to apply a light coat of white lithium grease to the door latches.

if someone has sprayed oil in it. Locks do not like oil. use a contact cleaner to wash out the oil. let dry and apply Lock lube only. Put the lock back together making sure everything moves free and be sure all piece's go together with out being in a bind . the lock should preform great.

the lock tumbler pins may be sticking, buy some powdered Graphite lock cylinder lube from a hardware store, use only this special dry lube, any other type of oil based lube will ruin the ignition lock, spray the powdered graphite into the lock cylinder and insert the key and try to work the lock, do this several times and spray the powder in at least twice, if this doesn't free up the lock cylinder then you will need to have the ignition lock cylinder replaced.

Squirt a puff of lock lubricant inside the lock barrel. Insert and remove the key a few times to distribute it.

Note that you absolutely must not use WD40 or any other liquid lubricant unless it's an emergency; lock lube is a fine dry graphite powder and so does not gum up and dry out, nor does it remain wet, sticky and prone to getting dirt and debris stuck to it. Many lock barrels do have a small amount of grease applied when manufactured, but it's carefully applied and liquid lubes just wash it away from where it should be and into places where it shouldn't be.

If you have used a wet lube in the lock then you need to have the lock stripped down and cleaned out or plan to replace the lock with a new one in the near future.

battery may be weak or dying or locking rods may be sticking lube lock rods

the door lock actuators are sticking from lack of lubrication, you can pull the panels and put lube on the gear drive of the door lock motor or better yet replace them, about $50 each.

the latch may need to be cleaned from dirt and dust then sprayed with penetrating lube. It does require removing the latch from the door.

were both keys the same if not it sounds like its had a replacement ignition barrel. it may have a key number stamped in the back of the barrel casing. if it has you can order a replacement key from any good locksmith/dealer, alternatively you can order a replacement barrel from m&p or any motorcycle parts stockists.