My 2002 fxd front forks are soft and come close to bottoming out. Does the fluid need to be changed? if so how and how much?

You are going to need a service manual, it is too long a process to go into right here. Use Harley type E fork oil

There are no specs for front fork travel. The forks will travel from full compression to full extenison. Use Harley type E fluid.

To change the fork seals in a 2004 FXD you will need to remove the forks from the bike and then drain the oil and then remove the dust seal and the retaining ring and spacer from the top of the fork and then remove the Allen head screw from the bottom of the fork to release the fork tube and then using the fork tube like a slide hammer drive the upper bushing, seal and spacer out the top of the slider. While apart you should also inspect the rings and bushings etc. You will need a special seal driver to reinstall the upper bushing, seal and spacer and then you will need to accurately refill the fluid to the correct level/amount. FXD/FXDL uses 10.6 OZ or 0.31 cc of Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) and the level measurement is 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm. Be very careful and accurate with the oil level as too much or too little will adversely affect the function, ride and steering of the bike. It is best to use a fork oil level gauge and set it so that the ring will sit 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm from the end of the tube and secure it at that position. If your gauge has a plunger cylinder on it push the plunger on the cylinder all the way in and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider, insert the tube until the ring rests flat on top of the fork tube and pull the plunger out to suck up excess oil from the fork tube. If no oil is sucked up into the gauge cylinder you need to add more oil until there is enough excess oil in the fork tube to have an excess amount sucked out of the fork tube. In this manner the gauges and cylinder will accurately set the fork oil level. If you have a vacuum operated gauge such as with a tool that attaches to a vacuum brake bleeder you will set the tool at 6.69 inches or 169.9mm as with the other type of tool and operate it the same way to remove excess oil to a precise and accurate specified fork oil level which is very important as an incorrect oil level can adversely affect motorcycle handling.

For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brakepads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s).

I do not understand what you are asking. Please post a comment with more information. The standing height of the forks is set by the length of the spring.

For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brake pads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s

Sorry I do not know,,One place i have got good ans, is harleytalking.com good luck;';';'

what year is the bike? make sure the comp screws are adjusted right in clockwise, then wind it 11 cicks anti clockwise. if it is still too soft add a bit more oil. about 1 fluid oz to each fork leg up to 2 fluid ozs. as long as you have the right amount of oil in the forks in the first place. if this is still too soft you will need to put heavier sprins in. hope this helps. cheers kev.