Rmz450 08 looks like cam has spun on gear how do i check

I THINK THE CAMSHAFT SPROKECTS WORKS AT INTAKE, AND EXHAUST CHECK "I" IS FOR INTAKE AND "E" IS FOR EXHAUST, AND CONFIRM THE POSITION OF THE VALVES - EXHAUST CAMSHAFT IS CLOSE TO THE WALL, AND INTAKE CAMSHAFT IS CLOSE TO RADIATOR. IF YOU DONT SEE MARKS, THE ONE THAT GOES AT EXHAUST GEARS COVERED. AND INTAKE OPPOSITE.

Same happened to me. Economic way to ensure its at tdc is to remove #1 plug, using a thin dowel rod mark the distance it travels inside spark plug hole. Turn crankshaft slightly until you can measure the #1 piston is at its highest position. You'll be at tdc.

If it shifts into gear and functions ok until you start to accelerate then revs up without going anywhere it is most likely the hub in the propeller. If so try another prop or have a prop shop rehub yours.

If it is the gear case jumping out of gear usually it is a more abrupt event, feels like you hit something. Also check the gear lube by tilting the motor down and unscrewing the drain screw from the gear case. Let a couple of drops come out. Should be clean oil, if old it will be black and have a strong odor. It should not have any water or metal filings in it. If milky there is water mixed with the oil.

which engine? size?
the ECU nor any lamp can save the engine with no oil or too low
or never changed out.
you missed, week level checks.
and if levels drop fast (as it will driving real fast)
you check more often, in fact you learn what your engine needs.
my guess is loss of oil pressure,
the idiot lamp( just name) comes on with its TOO LATE..
on most cars made.
get a real gauge called oil pressure.
or the engine overheated
or just bad luck.
what seized, cam , crank or rod bearings.
the machinist will tell you for sure what failed.
the pump or low levels.
push rod engines. the rear rod bearings like to fail first (low oil)
then on overhead cams, they bite dust first. (top end oiling can fail easy)
also, on the last rebuild did (no 2 before) the PO, ran water for antifreeze this cause the internal freeze plugs to pop and
water in oil and rear rod spun(seized)
water makes really poor oil substitute.
when you take it down there are tons of clues.
blue metal.
oil looks like chocolate milk shack
bearings spun ,cam bearings gone.
cracks in block and head.
ever inch checked then pressure tested before rebuild.

EAsy just look for the timing mark which i think is on the back of the cam ,a slot on the end that should be horizontal with head face,but turn engine over by hand before you try to start it to ensure the valves clear

Like all OHCam engines and well, like all engines, Make sure #1 is TDC on the compression side, pull timing cover and look at the 2 or 3 pulleys. They have positioning marks on both the gear and engine case. MAKE SURE #1 piston is Top dead center, ( Sweet Spot) If you haven't done Overhead cam engines before, Get the book first. After you are sure #1 is up on the compression stroke and is TDC, look at the timing gears, locate the timing marks and ensure they are alligned. If so then loosen the timing belt tentioner pully bolt slide old belt off and carefully slide new belt on. MAKE SURE NO ONE goes near the car while this is taking place....!! Trust me, It took me 3 weeks to get my Isuzu running after NOBODY put the key in the ignition and spun it over a few times while I was cleaning the Timing cover.... Major night mare!! Go slow and recheck.. Good luck!!

your best bet would be to go to an auto parts store and buy a haynes manual for your own car.they are about 20-25 dollars. this book will tell you how its done. they are based on a complete teardown of vehicle. good-day !

take the head off bent valves thats for sure

Assuming that this is a top load, direct drive, neutral drain washer you appear to have two problems. No spin and a broken/leaking gasket or pump hose.

A good place to look at parts and diagrams of a basic Whirlpool washer (commercial model but consumer models are basically the same) is:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's possible that

1. The motor coupling between the motor and transmission is worn enough that the motor cannot turn the transmission fast enough to begin the spin cycle.

2. You may have a problem with worn/broken cams in the neutral assembly. Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, and giving it a minor hand spin, the cams and torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Inspecting the motor coupler only requires unplugging the, removing the cabinet, pump (two clips) and the motor (two screws and two clips). Since you will do this to check out the pump anyhow, that's a start.

Look at the coupler on the motor and transmission, If it's worn badly or broken replace it. Beyond that, if it appears to be the transmission, you'll have to remove the agitators (a 1/2" drive bolt under the cap for the top agitator and a bolt into the agitator shaft. Pulling the transmission and checking the cams requires a little basic mechanical knowledge.
Remove the clutch (one spring clip), the spin pinion, 8 bolts for the transmission cover (full of 16 Oz of 80-90 weight oil) and the clip that holds the main spin gear in place. Remove that and look at the neutral drain cams. On ours, the cam with a small spring didn't have one (it has broken off) sp the washer wouldn't go into spin mode unless we hand spun it to get it started or lifted and lowered the lid.

Replace the cams, put everything back and it should work.

The waste on the floor could be caused by a leaking pump, broken drain hose or the gasket at the base of the tub. Since you'll have mose of the washer apart anyway, these should be easy to check.

You can try putting a thrust button on the front of the cam (available at speed shops) That will keep the cam from walking back and forth. Also, check the shims between the gear and housing. if I remember correctly the clearance there is minimum of 15 thousandths. If it's tighter than that it may bind on the cam gear. Also, if the gear has failed multiple times take a good look at the teeth on the cam. If they have become damaged, it will continue to "eat" dist gear unless you remove the cam and either "dress" the gear or change the cam.