Question about 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
1996 Suzuki 1400 intruder no power to high or low beam headlight @
Hi, Hugh_roberts if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
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Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual
Posted on Mar 11, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To my knowledge a 2003 Toyota Camry uses a dual filament halogen bulb, either by Osram, Philips or Sylavania. If on the dashboard, the blue indicator lits when the switch is moved to bright or the passlight is engaged but no headlight, then it could jut be busted bulb (or part of it since you still have driving/low beam). In some cases, it could be the relay that supplies power direct to the bulb. At other times, it could be fuse(s) assigned to high beam. At certain instances, it could be also a loose, corroded or burned connector.
Corrective measure for your concern would be to check the 2 bulbs. This is performed by removing the rear covering (rubber or plastic cap) of the headlight assembly from the rear. The bulbs are held in place by a spring clip that needs to be unlatched from the base/holder. Carefully remove the bulb taking care not to touch the glass envelope. The filaments would be readily visible and cut/breaks would be apparent. If determined that one of the filaments (high beam) is open, replace the bulb(s).
If the bulbs prove to be OK, you need to work yourself backwards tracing the wiring harness. After the bulb, check the 3 prong connector for any corrosion or scorching/burnt marks; clean as maybe required. Next to check would be the relay that provides the +12VDC and then the fuse.
I doubt if the dashboard or steering wheel components involve with headlights may be at fault.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 02, 2008
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
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