A Honda CN250, CH250 and Piaggio Super Hexagon 250 share the same engine. I think your problem maybe the automatic choke or auto-bystarter(as it is officially known) is faulty. A common fault that is always over-looked as this bike has an automatic fuel switch and does not have a petrol tap you can turn off.
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
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Most modern motorcycles don't have separate gearbox oil.
The gearbox is lubricated by the engine oil hence the reason for regular oil and filter changes to be made following the manufacturers recommendations.
I believe this bike uses the copy of the Honda CN250(UK), Helix(USA), Spazio( France and Italy) and Fusion(Japan). As a former owner of a Spazio I can confirm that the oil sump only holds 0.8 Litres or 800 millilitres. For the engine to be reliable, I would say check the oil level on the centre stand every 218.75 miles or 350 kilometres and change the oil every 1062.5 miles or 1700 kilometres. Unscrew the dipstick/filler cap wipe it with a piece of clean rag and rest it on top of the filler cap thread allowing for the dipstick to have a reading between the chevron mark on the dipstick. Never rely upon the specifications inside any manual you may have been given and just go off the dipstick for an accurate reading. You will find a drain cap at the 7 o'clock position below the dipstick/filler cap, this drain cap can be easily mangled and damaged so use the correct socket to remove it. Have a pan available to collect the old oil. You will find a gauze plug behind the drain cap. This needs to be cleaned in solvent free of any foreign particles, dried and re-installed. Be careful not to over-tighten the drain plug on its fitting. If you are unfortunate enough to strip the thread you will have made the bike unrideable. If you are in any way not very good with tools, please get a professional mechanic to do your maintenance because any mishaps can be rectified by those who know best and a poorly maintained motorcycle is a death-trap or accident waiting to happen. Replace the engine oil, semi-synthetic is best for this type of engine and using fully synthetic is a waste of money, false economy and it will damage your engine on start-up because the molecules do not get anywhere near offering the protection that semi-synthetic offers. Please use the dipstick to check the oil level and don't rely on the manual. Do not over-fill as this will put extra strain on the crankshaft and pressure will build up and blow your gasket seals at least. Any further help can be obtained from me at andygreyrider at aol dot com free of charge.