20 Most Recent Creek 5350SE Amplifier Questions & Answers

This description was copied from a description of the Creek 5350SE. `The circuit consists of a passive input stage and volume control which then feed the power amplifier section. It is possible to make this pre-amp section an active device by adding a gain module'. This sounds like an old problem with volume controls which are essentially, a potentiometer. If there is absolutely no voltage on the slider of the potentiometer then no noise is generated, and amplified. In your case a voltage is generated when you power up from your input devices, such as a record player or cd player or mixer unit. The retailer in LA could not recreate the problem as he may not have had the same audio set-up. Try to isolate the input by not connecting the other units, and switch on to test. If you find the culprit unit you will find it has a DC voltage on its output on switch on, which dies away slowly. Touching the metal case is a way of discharging this voltage build up, and you should also make sure the units metalwork are connected, with extra wires. If you can make the pre-amp section an active device by adding the gain module this will most likely cure the noise problem. If the output speakers protection relay circuit, inhibit time can be increased by adjustment this would mask the effect, which is what its for.

Hi Lorne, You can use the amp as a pre by removing the 'jumpers' - or as a power if required. The 'jumpers' are simply used to connect (or disconnect) the amplifier's pre & power sections. Hope this helps.

Clearly it had a traumatic event.

Maybe open it up and sniff for burnt components, but even if you see something obvious and replace it you might not know what the original cause for failure was, so you may just be wasting time and sacrificing new parts.

I

Well, if messing with the RCA cables affects the problem what does that suggest? Have you tried swapping the Left with the Right to see if it follows the cable or stays with the component?

It's the ribbon cable that is likely at fault. There are actually three computer type ribbon cables in the amp. I believe the cable that is responsible for the drop-out of a channel is the widest (longest) of the three, but you really need a tech to look at it and replace the cable. But please note that the new cable may also have defects in manufacture and that it may take some time to order a new cable from Creek. I had a tech solve the problem permanently by removing all three ribbon cables and then hard-wiring the connections together - that is to say, point-to-point wiring. My cost was about $250, but as you can imagine, there is extensive labor involved. Good luck!

Sounds like its time to change the needle [Stylus ] , there are a few types But the two most common are Saphire and Diamond Stylus pay the extra and get a diamond if you can , Hope this helps

First of all touch the metallic body of the amp with your palm after removing your footwear and find out if there is a reduction of the hum sound. If the hum is reduced that means there is no proper earthing .Check whether the power supply is properly earthed.If there is no earth connection in your home wiring there will be hum.You can ask your electrician to solve this problem and then switch on the system.
If the problem persisits check the audio cable for any damage and replace the cable with a new one.
Sometimes the hum may be caused by a tubelight which is taking power from the same plugpoint you are using for your player.this can also cause noise.

Amps now have protection circuits on them now to protect them from blowing the electronics. Speakers dont usualy have any protection and can blow quite easy. Usualy when they blow they short out or short to ground and then the amp overheats and kicks off. What you can do is un hook both speakers and turn the power on if it stays on then plug each speaker back in one at a time. If it shuts off again without the speakers then it has to be somthing internal already damaged. Bass and volume are the #2 killers of systems. If when its up loud and the woofer speaker is moving in and out pretty far its on the edge of blowing.

Are you saying its taking a long time for the sound to come out of the speakers?? or that theres no sound at all?? If its taking a long time check the resistance of each speaker to see that a componet in the crossover or the speaker didnt short.If you take all the speakers and if theres supost to be a relay for protection and you hear it click then the amp is good or has an out put stage problem like bad poutput devices or blown driver transistors. Need alittle more info if you could Thanks.

It seems that you have a low Hz feedback loop between the speakers and the tonearm/stylus. Usually it's only a visual effect and very little can be heard. In the old times there was a "subsonic" filter in the phonostage part of the amps to cut this out. You could try a different placement of the turntable as this phenomenon is induced by airborne vibrations and a different placement could ameliorate this interaction...

What issues are you having?

King Amplification in san Jose is an expert on fixing all kinds of amps. Val king is the owner. he is very friendly and knowledgable. If you go to Kingamplification.com and click on repair center you can get his contact info.

Val is a great guy and very fair. I am sure he can help you.

If you've checked the cables, swapped them out, and ensured that the power adapter is providing power to the Vocalizer 3, but you're still not getting any sound output, there are a few additional troubleshooting steps you can try: 1. **Check Volume Levels**: Ensure that the volume levels on the Vocalizer 3 and any connected devices (such as mixers, amplifiers, or speakers) are turned up and not muted. 2. **Test with Different Inputs/Outputs**: Try connecting the Vocalizer 3 to different inputs on your mixer, amplifier, or speakers, and test with different output devices if possible. This can help determine if the issue is specific to certain connections or devices. 3. **Inspect Settings**: Check the settings on the Vocalizer 3 to ensure that the correct input and output sources are selected. Make sure that any settings related to mono/stereo output are configured correctly. 4. **Test with Different Power Adapter**: If you have access to another power adapter with similar specifications, try using it to power the Vocalizer 3. This can help determine if the issue is related to the power adapter. 5. **Reset the Vocalizer 3**: Some electronic devices can benefit from a reset to their factory settings. Refer to the user manual for instructions on how to perform a reset on the Vocalizer 3, and try resetting it to see if it resolves the issue. 6. **Contact Technical Support**: If you've tried the above steps and are still experiencing issues with the Vocalizer 3, it's possible that there may be a hardware problem or malfunction. Contact the manufacturer's technical support for further assistance and troubleshooting guidance. They may be able to provide additional insights or recommend repairs if necessary. By following these troubleshooting steps, you should be able to diagnose and resolve the issue with the lack of sound output from your Vocalizer 3.

1. Power Off: Turn off the device.
2. Jumper Configuration: Locate the jumper labeled "S16" on the device. Initially, it should be connected to pins 2 and 3.
3. Power On (Alarm+All LEDs Flashing): Turn the device back on. You'll see the alarm LED and all other LEDs flashing.
4. Power Off Again: Turn off the device once more.
5. Jumper Adjustment: Change the jumper configuration from pins 2 and 3 to pins 1 and 2.
6. Finished: Your Porpo YH-2000 is now set to the desired angular unit mode.

If you encounter any issues, you can press the reset switch on the back of the device to reinitialize it.