You posted under tank-type electric water heater: There are several new types of water heater controls and each set slightly differently: Open following page to see how to adjust temperature on common models of water heater: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
If your water heater is not shown, then add a comment. If you have tankless water heater, then re-post question with specific brand and model number or refer to product manual.
Add a comment for more free help. Also take advantage of fixya phone service. For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project. Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
BEWARE!!!! LEAKAGE IN WATER HEATER MAY BE EXTREMELY HAZARD DELIVERING!! STOP USING IT AND TURN IT OFF FROM MAINS, CALL AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER IMMEDIATELY AND DON'T USE IT BEFORE THAT!!!!
Basic information: Typical electric water heater operates in non-simultaneous fashion where either the upper element is ON, or the lower element is ON, or both elements are OFF, but both elements are never ON at same time.Easiest way to increase recovery. If you have 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker, then install two 5500 watt elements. This will not work if you have smaller 12 gauge wire and 20 amp breaker.Watt rating appears on side of each element.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.htmlChange wiring.If you run two separate 10 gauge wires to water heater, with each wire on a separate 30 amp breaker, then you can 'wire both elements together' to operate in simultaneous fashion. The elements are each wired independently of each other, but they can both turn ON at same time, and this action avoids heating lag if you also install larger 5500 watt elements.Simultaneous water heaters can be ordered from manufacturer, and this is common with 80 gallon models where tank must keep up with larger demand.Copy following link for illustration showing how to rewire for simultaneous operation:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html#simultaneoushttp://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
First a question. Did you fill the water heater until water ran freely at the hot taps. If not you may have had an air pocket and blown an element. Water heaters will always be shipped with the ECO in the reset position. The reset is a RED button located under the upper cover for the thermostat. Shut off breaker to water heater and remove this cover, and the fiber glass, then push the reset. Replace the fiberglas and the cover securely and turn on power. You should actually hear the heater in most cases. Remember that it takes about 45 minutes for a full tank of hot water from startup.
Not familiar with this model but most are generic. Turn the water off; Release the pressure with the pressure relief valve and leave it open; Undo the cold water inlet assembly and drain the tank; Disconnect the element wires from the thermostat; The elements are held in by 4 bolts. Undo the bolts and remove element; Installation is the reverse of above.
It is boiling the water. Turn it down. Look on the side and remove the small cover to expose the thermostat Turn it counter clock wise to reduce heated water temp. There may be two. After an hour or so test the hot water and see if you can keep your hand in the flow of all hot water. If it is so hot it will burn you it is still too hot. 170 is hot enough. That is slightly painful and will cook the skin
I would say that this sound is only when the water heater is heating water and not all the time. This is a normal sound when the water is boiling around the heating elements. Has your water heater ever exhibited any other sounds?
Cut power off and take off cover to reveil element with number on it's side to give you info to get another one rated the same to go back in.
Make sure power supply is off to water heater and then turn water off to water heater. Then open a faucet's hot side and connect a water hose to drain and drain down water out of water heater to keep from getting water on floor. After heater is drained you are now ready to remove wires and element with a socket 1 3/8 "..
Replace new element in place and turn water back on and fill heater back up with all air out of system before cutting power on. Once air is out and water running from all facuet's hot sides throughout house now you can turn power back on.
One more thing when draining tank if it doesn't want to drain good open lever on relief valve to allow water drain faster.
Check your thremostat setting if it is set to highest position it may be causing some of the noise over heating the water and making the noise. And you can put an insulated jacket on it to maybe help with sound.
When your water is getting heated too much , there awre a couple things that may be happening. The thermostats need to be in full contact with the metal tank surface. If there is space between the back of the t-stat and the tank, then the water will overheat. You may have a bad t-stat. Replacing a t-stat is an easy chore. They can be fiund at most building supply or hardware stores.
Make a drawing so you can get the new one connected withour any problems.
Remove access panels on water heater's side the top thermostat has a red reset button on it.
Press reset button and it will take about 30 mins or more to get hot water. If you have a meter or test light check wires to elements for power.
This would be the first thing to check on the water heater.
The heating element must be shot. There is an adj there, but it is a tiny dial, and I'm not sure about the 30 gal, but most heaters have 2 elements. If yours starts out too hot then runs out, Blame the element, or check the breaker with a meter to make sure you have voltage to both legs of the 220 volt line. Sometimes one will quit there, and leave you half power. Check it out.
I would need a better description of plastic seal or a good picture It is possible it could be replaced but might be cheaper to buy a new heater given it's age. They do not manufacture as long lasting equiptment as they did in the 50s 60s and 70s