I am unfamiliar with the types of plug and socket you refer to - we use a different standard in the UK though the principle is identical.
An appliance with a metal body would usually require a ground connection though if the electrical parts are double insulated a ground connection could be deemed an unnecessary safety precaution.
Firstly is the rated voltage of the mixer the same as your supply? Assuming it is correct, is the power cord 2 core cable or 3 core?
If it is 2 core the mixer has a fault as the metal body should not be live (or hot).
If it is 3 core is is possible either the plug is internally connected wrongly, the power cord is connected wrongly inside the mixer or the mixer electrical system is faulty and your power outlet doesn't have an effective ground connection.
If your consumer unit (main fuse and breaker box) complies with modern standards, the ELCB or RCD should have tripped as soon as you plugged in your mixer.
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
what do you mean by "slip"
the blades quit turning?
or slow down?
or lose power?
or out of alignment?
in other words how do you know they are "slipping"?
First I would find a repair depot for kitchen Aid and see if parts are still available for your model and if they will sell them to end users. They may also be able to help with a parts blowup diagram.
Worn carbon motor brushes typically cause motor sparking when you're running the mixer. Unplug the stand mixer and examine the motor brushes for wear. To remove a motor brush, use a screwdriver to unscrew the motor brush cap. Pull the cap and the carbon brush out.
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Hiya,
I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your machine.
It could be that your motor brushes have worn down too much or are not in the correct way. I have added a help link below which will show you how to remove and replace your motor brushes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YuS3atXR0M
I hope this helps you!!
Yes and isn't that the dumbest design for something like that. 3 screws when older models had 4 and no locating pegs where older models had 2. Great progress Kitchen Aid.
Make sure that the carbon brushes are free moving in the holders under the black caps, one on each side. Note that the brushes are "keyed" so that they will only fit and work one way. There is a blocker at the bottom of the brush holder that is to be lined up with the corner of the carbon brush that's been shaved off. Use a torch and remember to unplug the power before you start. Next thing to look at are the wires and switch contacts underneath the back cover.
Hello there,
Sorry to hear you are experiencing an issue with your appliance. If you have a KitchenAid Tilthead mixer, please see the attached link with
Hiya,
I am sorry to hear you are having trouble with your appliance. I have added a link below for our help video on setting the correct speed on your mixer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM3t46afGcc
I hope this helps you resolve the issue :)
Check that you have put the carbon brushes in correctly, they are "keyed" on one corner so will only work one way. Look in the hole with a torch to see the blocking corner in the bottom.
The adjustment procedure is the same and there are springs on the two adjustment bolts. Thereafter, things are very different on the K45.
No speed or torque can be caused by:
1. Bad brushes, or most likely
2. A bad resistor. There are three wires on the resistor. It should read 190 ohms (or there about) across the red and white wires and 95 ohms (or there about) across the black wire and either of the other two.
3. A bad field coil (stator).
4. A bad armature.
A replacement resistor, field core, and armature are extremely difficult to find.
The Service Manual for the K45 and K5A can be found in the files section of WACEM, you just have to sign up to the site:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WACEM/
Look for "K5-A, K45 Original Service Manual"
